LS7 help
The hardest part about comparing short blocks is trying to compare apples to apples. One may be priced higher because it has more extra parts involved like cam plate, break in oil, crate fee, engine covers etc. Most forged short blocks are in the high 4 range and go up depending on what block, what parts, and sometimes if machine work is done in house or not, as well as brand and quality of parts.
I cannot say if that is a good deal or not honestly.
The other guys that buy em can tell you more about what is a bargain and what is not.
I cannot say if that is a good deal or not honestly.
The other guys that buy em can tell you more about what is a bargain and what is not.
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Joined: Apr 2017
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tech@WS6store is on point. It's all what's in the package. As this TSP setup would change some what.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-162-ts...ort-block.aspx
Things that I'd change real quick, getting out the door for another 2 a day aka 12hrs+
Rings: Total Seal Gapless ring set
Crank and rods
Oil pump if not Melling
ARP studs
The reason I said this as once you've got the parts then you need a Good Builder. If there not near you shipping Cost also. I got away with a lot as I get most things on the as dealer price(and there are a few good builders here). But this stuff is not for the faint at heart or pocket book, if you starting with nothing as most have a ls which makes swapping kinda easy not for us that are doing a Complete non Ls swap Everything's needed.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-162-ts...ort-block.aspx
Things that I'd change real quick, getting out the door for another 2 a day aka 12hrs+
Rings: Total Seal Gapless ring set
Crank and rods
Oil pump if not Melling
ARP studs
The reason I said this as once you've got the parts then you need a Good Builder. If there not near you shipping Cost also. I got away with a lot as I get most things on the as dealer price(and there are a few good builders here). But this stuff is not for the faint at heart or pocket book, if you starting with nothing as most have a ls which makes swapping kinda easy not for us that are doing a Complete non Ls swap Everything's needed.
Last edited by Patron; May 25, 2017 at 05:39 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 948
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Around $15 to $20k+ total for a killer stroker Ls swap with EFI. Starting from a non Ls car. Carb set-up would be a little cheaper. The little things add up cam,valley, covers and timing chains all the small stuff. Oil pick up tube brace,crank scrappers, injectors,ECU and harness,valve covers,elec. water pump....etc. I know you wouldn't cut coner's talking about a dry-sump which adds to the price.
Last edited by Patron; May 25, 2017 at 05:54 AM.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Vancouver, BC
Formula LS-400 Hi Tevor, do you require a Dry Sump engine ?
Do you require 400 CID ?
I provide Forged Crankshafts, short post, with finish mains AND unfinished rod.
These can be ground for up to a 4.125" stroke down to the ALM stroke of 3.25".
Thus one choice would be a L-92 (2007+) with VVT or TBSS, these sell for $3200 in CA. (Average Price)
Thus you could fit a my 98mm Crankshaft for your Formula 400 requirement.
Lance
Do you require 400 CID ?
I provide Forged Crankshafts, short post, with finish mains AND unfinished rod.
These can be ground for up to a 4.125" stroke down to the ALM stroke of 3.25".
Thus one choice would be a L-92 (2007+) with VVT or TBSS, these sell for $3200 in CA. (Average Price)
Thus you could fit a my 98mm Crankshaft for your Formula 400 requirement.
Lance
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A lot of you are recommending a LS3 based short block for OP . My question is performance wise how would a 427 LS3 compare to 383 LS7 . The 427 would have LS3 heads and intake the 383 will have LS7 heads and intake .
Building a 383 out of an ls7 would be a shame. The ls7 goes to 7k anyway. Youd build a 383 ls7 to rev higher? Thats working backwards and seriously a waste. Youd be pretty far down on tq vs the 427. The ls7 block is expensive and the liners arent nearly as durable as the ls3.
Building a 383 out of an ls7 would be a shame. The ls7 goes to 7k anyway. Youd build a 383 ls7 to rev higher? Thats working backwards and seriously a waste. Youd be pretty far down on tq vs the 427. The ls7 block is expensive and the liners arent nearly as durable as the ls3.
Thx , yes I knew that ..... but lets just say you already have the block . And I know you'd be better off with a 4.125 bore or bigger with LS7 heads before you go there. How much power is the 383 LS7 going to give up to the 427 up top ?
There is no way to actually say for sure. Quite a bit is what i wound say. You may use the ls3 dry sump crank to keep it dry sump, but youre adding weight there, plus youd have to use a steel rod and a custom piston for that also. The cams would likely be very different. Using a cam specd for the 387 (4.125 x 3.622) would feed it well beyond what it would feed a 427 (4.125 x 4) or even a 427 (4.065 x 4.1/4.125).
Using the ls3 block would be cheaper overall with the ability to produce quite a bit of power and at higher rpm, whether you want to stay dry sump or wet.
Using the ls3 block would be cheaper overall with the ability to produce quite a bit of power and at higher rpm, whether you want to stay dry sump or wet.
There is no way to actually say for sure. Quite a bit is what i wound say. You may use the ls3 dry sump crank to keep it dry sump, but youre adding weight there, plus youd have to use a steel rod and a custom piston for that also. The cams would likely be very different. Using a cam specd for the 387 (4.125 x 3.622) would feed it well beyond what it would feed a 427 (4.125 x 4) or even a 427 (4.065 x 4.1/4.125).
Using the ls3 block would be cheaper overall with the ability to produce quite a bit of power and at higher rpm, whether you want to stay dry sump or wet.
Using the ls3 block would be cheaper overall with the ability to produce quite a bit of power and at higher rpm, whether you want to stay dry sump or wet.
I dont have a guess as they would prob be tailored for each setup. with a small cid large bore youd normally look at high rpm. youd sacrifice everything below 3500 - 4k really to build it and torque would be down also. the 427 would be completely diff. you may not want to pull it as high as the shorter stroke, but you wouldnt have to with the proper cam plus tq would be way up all over.
Ok good enough , not that it makes whole lot of diff , but in my comparison .... would be the 427 with 4.065 bore and stock LS3 heads and intake vs the 383 will must likely have aftermarket LS7 heads and intake !
There are many builders offering killer LS7 Builds, yet if you have a local machine shop you know, you can build the engine and know what your getting vs buying a short or long block and you are pretty much stuck with what you get, race parts usually don't have any warranty cause of the install errors which can happen. There are many benefits to an LS7 provided your staying under 800rwhp they seem very strong below that level with solid tuning, the factory liners cannot handle any detonation when at that cylinder pressure... LS7 has billet steel caps and thats a nice plus when you add in the largest bore outside aftermarket blocks. I originally planned to go LS7 NA and make around 700 RWHP, now I am building a Turbo Motor and going LSX... parts will be listed for sale soon... with ARE Dry Sump!
