Vacuum pump for crank case ventilation
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2017
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Vacuum pump for crank case ventilation Looking to establish some vacuum to help lower blow by pressure WITHOUT using the the returns (or supply) from the MAFS. Tried it passively with with lines off of the valve covers to a catch can equipped with a breather. That didn't work too well as it would fill the can and then vent the excess oil through the breather onto the exhaust. I'm going to relocate the vent line from the valve cover to the Valley pan cover (LS6 type). However, I'm not sure that this "passive" pressure relief vent is really adequate.
I know a lot of 1/4 milers use a vacuum pump to generate about 15 psi of vacuum. Do road cars use something like this?
There really isn't room for a dry sump system (C5 Z06 - tight...).
Anyone have any experience with this sort of mod/upgrade?
Thanks for any assistance.
Jeff
I know a lot of 1/4 milers use a vacuum pump to generate about 15 psi of vacuum. Do road cars use something like this?
There really isn't room for a dry sump system (C5 Z06 - tight...).
Anyone have any experience with this sort of mod/upgrade?
Thanks for any assistance.
Jeff
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,845
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
I am using a Daily Dry Sump in my 99 C5 it makes
15.5" of Vacuum on my Custom DLRE 396" Engine.
Have to give up AC for the Dry Sump System.
Danny Pop uses this same system also.
Serious Financial Commitment as well.
15.5" of Vacuum on my Custom DLRE 396" Engine.
Have to give up AC for the Dry Sump System.
Danny Pop uses this same system also.
Serious Financial Commitment as well.
GZ Motorsports makes a nice kit. I have one on both of my cars. I have trans ams though so I don't know how much different your setup would be than mine. But check them out. They make a nice kit and their customer service is great.
I have 10an lines running from each valve cover to a T and then to the vacuum pump. I tapped both valve covers in the back. The LS6 valley cover has a port but I was told it doesn't flow enough air for the vacuum pump. Then another 10an line runs from the vacuum pump to the catch can. I used a Mighty Mouse catch can with my setup though it's not needed and then I just vented it but I don't smell any oil at all outside the car. The vac pump has an adjustable valve on it so you can control the vacuum it pulls. Depending on your setup they have two different size vac pumps.
Some guys say these aren't great for the street but GZ said they have one that's been on a vette for 20k+ with no issues. And the pump is rebuildable.
I have 10an lines running from each valve cover to a T and then to the vacuum pump. I tapped both valve covers in the back. The LS6 valley cover has a port but I was told it doesn't flow enough air for the vacuum pump. Then another 10an line runs from the vacuum pump to the catch can. I used a Mighty Mouse catch can with my setup though it's not needed and then I just vented it but I don't smell any oil at all outside the car. The vac pump has an adjustable valve on it so you can control the vacuum it pulls. Depending on your setup they have two different size vac pumps.
Some guys say these aren't great for the street but GZ said they have one that's been on a vette for 20k+ with no issues. And the pump is rebuildable.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
If I wasn't using a Dry Sump I would Absolutely use the GZ Set Up as
Referenced above by 98_WS6_M6.
At 12" of Vacuum and above I would want coated wrist pins at least
and piston squirters beyound that.
Referenced above by 98_WS6_M6.
At 12" of Vacuum and above I would want coated wrist pins at least
and piston squirters beyound that.
On The Tree
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Grew up in Charleston, SC live in Moncure, NC
I plan on adding a GZ setup to my street ride, but will try to keep vacuum between 8-10. That is the number I have been hearing for years for the street...
Dust INSIDE the engine Hi All, I do road racing/off road racing.
SURE removing Pumping Losses is a good thing.
My problem (internal engine dirt/dust entry) was cured by using "double" seals on the crankshaft.
I believe the LS-x rear seal is fine, the front could be better ?
Lance
SURE removing Pumping Losses is a good thing.
My problem (internal engine dirt/dust entry) was cured by using "double" seals on the crankshaft.
I believe the LS-x rear seal is fine, the front could be better ?
Lance
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2012
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Thanks for the kind words about our products! GZ pumps work great on the street. We recommend sending them in to be freshened up after 10-15,000 miles. We do have one with 20K+ miles on a C5.
You don't need to start worrying about wrist pin oiling until at least 14" HG. It's an internet myth. when you are street driving, and the engine is living at 2500ish rpm, the pump is turning slow enough that you probably won't even have 10"Hg. The vacuum level comes up with rpm, so it's only real high when you need it to be.
Pulling vacuum from the intake valley usually isn't a good idea because a lot of oil is flying around in there and your breather tank will fill up fast and make a mess.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions. I don't check my PMs here very often, so calling or emailing will work best.
You don't need to start worrying about wrist pin oiling until at least 14" HG. It's an internet myth. when you are street driving, and the engine is living at 2500ish rpm, the pump is turning slow enough that you probably won't even have 10"Hg. The vacuum level comes up with rpm, so it's only real high when you need it to be.
Pulling vacuum from the intake valley usually isn't a good idea because a lot of oil is flying around in there and your breather tank will fill up fast and make a mess.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions. I don't check my PMs here very often, so calling or emailing will work best.
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