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He probably did the doofus thing and removed the thermostat...
LOL sounds like it. Imagine how much more power he'd be making at an actual operating temp with a much more complete burn.
I learned the hard way when I was 17 trying to diagnose an overheat condition, I removed the thermostat and the car over heated like crazy in under 5 minutes.. And it was 30 degrees outside.
hey fuckface , I was replying to Pantera EFI and you jumped all over that with your "Do you have any literature on testing that shows oil doesn't need to be at 212 to burn off water?"
So I showed you no it doesn`t, I don`t have any LITERATURE just real world experience. Jesus ****.
Your small block runs 180* good for you , 90% of boats don`t. get an engine that makes some power and heat it up to 190* that ************ will knock itself to death.
As soon as my motors start making some heat they knock.
maybe walk into a conversation with an open mind next time, it`ll go a lot smoother.
LOL sounds like it. Imagine how much more power he'd be making at an actual operating temp with a much more complete burn.
Hook up a 15, 000# trailer to your Sierra put it in 2nd gear going uphill @ 5500rpm in 90* weather and let me how much it knocks and how much timing it pulls . Then let me where those coolant temps need to be to get it to stop knocking.
that`s offshore boating common knowledge. Something you 2 obviously know nothing about.
I think we`re done here.
There's gotta be something wrong with a 2500HD Sierra that has a hard time pulling 15,000#uphill even in 90*. If you are talking 1500 Sierra you are overloaded by about 5000# anyway. There's not a 1/2ton anywhere rated to tow 15,000#.
MOCAL makes a good oil thermostat in a couple fitting sizes.
At the race track I found that the number of road race engines that have problems lined up pretty good with overcooking the oil. I'm ok with track temps at about 220 on oil, above that it breaks down fast. On enduro cars I try and keep it below 200. Cylinder head temps correlate pretty fast to oil temps and water temps.
If you want a 360 or 401 sprint car to make power pre-heat the water, has to get to 175 or better up to 210, above that I didn't see much more power. I pre-heat the oil in the dry sump tank to 195, the Methanol cools the engine so fast that the oil temp and water temps drop when you first push the car off.. Sometimes 50 degrees in a lap.. Once the race starts if the driver keeps their foot in it the engine temp is back to 175 to 210, the oil will eventually keep heating up to around 220, but since most races are short on dirt it typically doesn't bother the full synthetic oils.
The Volvo penta in my old Reinell ran 145 to 155 at cruise, straight 6 w/3 carbs.. all factory parts, it had a isolated cooling loop and the engine side had a standard thermostat set at 150.
I'm not in this for the argument. You guys are having too much fun with that by yourselves, but....Danhawk, I've owned two vettes, a c5 hardtop, and a z06, and both of my cars oil temps were at 185-190 degrees in 15 minutes. I don't think that the dry sump system in your car would affect oil temps that much. I'm really just wondering why your oil temps are reading so low, even in a Chicago winter? That doesn't seem right, but I've never driven in Chicago in the winter either...
I worked at a shop that built cup engines in the mid 90's, back when teams still farmed out their engine work. We also built supercharged big block chevys for an offshore team, that looked setup very similar to yours. That particular race team ran pretty high oil temps purposely to try to combat moisture in the crankcase, which according to them was an issue with offshore racing environments. Can you elaborate on either of these situations?
hey fuckface , I was replying to Pantera EFI and you jumped all over that with your "Do you have any literature on testing that shows oil doesn't need to be at 212 to burn off water?"
I like to read on things rather than just repeat what I hear people say
So I showed you no it doesn`t, I don`t have any LITERATURE just real world experience. Jesus ****.
You didn't show me ****, you made a bunch of statements from your experience. Cool. Thanks.
Your small block runs 180* good for you , 90% of boats don`t. get an engine that makes some power and heat it up to 190* that ************ will knock itself to death.
As soon as my motors start making some heat they knock.
I've been on a **** load of boats, and all ran what you would call normal temps, not this 70 degree **** you're saying. And if you can't keep a motor from knocking at operating temp you're doing something wrong. Operating temp affects and effects far more than just knock. I have experience on the subject too. But I don't band aid mine.
maybe walk into a conversation with an open mind next time, it`ll go a lot smoother.
Going smooth so far actually. And who's close minded here?Your first comment was disagreeing with data collected during R&D and bashing this and bashing that. But I'm closed minded. Gotcha.
Carry on thou.
By the way people on boating forums say different than you about boat engine temps. And I have experienced different as well.
He's one of those "my way or the highway" kind of guys. They don't handle disagreement, no matter how full of crap they are. Then they throw in the usual amount of profanity to emphasize their point.
Hook up a 15, 000# trailer to your Sierra put it in 2nd gear going uphill @ 5500rpm in 90* weather and let me how much it knocks and how much timing it pulls . Then let me where those coolant temps need to be to get it to stop knocking.
that`s offshore boating common knowledge. Something you 2 obviously know nothing about.
I think we`re done here.
First of all my truck is tuned very well and wouldn't knock but I'll play along.
First I'd check my temp to make sure it was around 195, as it has a 195 degree thermostat. Then I'd adjust my tune or octane accordingly for the situation. I would never lower my water temp. If I did 160 would be the lowest. But I wouldn't start there. There's too many other proper ways to approach the issue.
He's one of those "my way or the highway" kind of guys. They don't handle disagreement, no matter how full of crap they are. Then they throw in the usual amount of profanity to emphasize their point.
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