Oil temps too low?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2
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Oil temps too low? Good Morning, hope I'm in the right section. I have a 6.0 iron block stroked to a 416ci.
Parts Used:
-block is half filled for extra strength, and sonic tested
-balanced machine bored, honed, decked, line honed, hot tanked, etc.
-diamond forged flat top -2cc pistons
-total seal AP steel nitrous rings
-eagle H-beam rods w/eagle ARP Rod bolts
-trend think wall wrist pin .927 x 2.50 x .225
-Callie's Dragon Slayer 4" crank with tig'd trigger wheel for extra strength
-ARP pro series main studs
-ARP crank cap bolts
-LS6 intake manifold
-243 heads
-external oil cooler
Before the oil cooler it was running 260-270*, now after the oil cooler its only getting up to 110-115*. How bad is it for the motor, it's freshly built, is there a good way to fix this? Has anyone heard of this problem? I cannot find any info on anything like this.
Parts Used:
-block is half filled for extra strength, and sonic tested
-balanced machine bored, honed, decked, line honed, hot tanked, etc.
-diamond forged flat top -2cc pistons
-total seal AP steel nitrous rings
-eagle H-beam rods w/eagle ARP Rod bolts
-trend think wall wrist pin .927 x 2.50 x .225
-Callie's Dragon Slayer 4" crank with tig'd trigger wheel for extra strength
-ARP pro series main studs
-ARP crank cap bolts
-LS6 intake manifold
-243 heads
-external oil cooler
Before the oil cooler it was running 260-270*, now after the oil cooler its only getting up to 110-115*. How bad is it for the motor, it's freshly built, is there a good way to fix this? Has anyone heard of this problem? I cannot find any info on anything like this.
Smartest tech I ever met said he got to speak to an petroleum engineer about oil and the engineer said oil needs to be at least 140 degrees to lubricate properly.
A little helpful but doesn't necessarily state a minimum temp but does say your temp is too low.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/
A little helpful but doesn't necessarily state a minimum temp but does say your temp is too low.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 448
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Improved Racing makes a nice thermostatic valve. You definitely don't want to run the engine much with that oil temp. Not only for lubrication but also because an oil that doesn't come up to sufficient operating temperature will not boil of water and condensed gasses. This creates a separate problem of caustic chemicals that can wreak havoc on an engine.
Block Temperature Hi Hoon, I was part of the JTD test shop used to certify items for the Viper.
ONE test was block temperature/ring wear.
WE FOUND that a block water temperature of under 160F would CAUSE Ring Wear to increase by 1600%.
The NEXT question about the Oil Temperature requirement : OVER 212F allows for the Water Vapor to be extracted from the oil.
This if not done, the "cold" oil is seen as Mud, creates Brown Oil.
Lance
ONE test was block temperature/ring wear.
WE FOUND that a block water temperature of under 160F would CAUSE Ring Wear to increase by 1600%.
The NEXT question about the Oil Temperature requirement : OVER 212F allows for the Water Vapor to be extracted from the oil.
This if not done, the "cold" oil is seen as Mud, creates Brown Oil.
Lance
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 9
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I disagree with all of that ^
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
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Verdad Gallardo I disagree with all of that ^
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
Apples and oranges. You said you use an oil thermostat therefore the correlation between water and oil temp on your setup is null. On his application it isn't.
Do you have any literature on testing that shows oil doesn't need to be at 212 to burn off water? I'd like to know how the condensation converts from a liquid to gas state without reaching the boiling point. I'm being serious, not a dick, looking to learn not have a pissing contest.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
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Not really apples to bananas, I use oil stat to bring the oil temp up. In the end I end up with 150*oil and 100* water temp.
So then according to the 1600% increased ringwear theory my engine should be shot after one weekend?
Put water on the stove at a 150* or even in the sun on a hot day..it still EVAPORATES. It only BOILS at 212*
My Current GS runs 160* oil temps in the winter and 180* in 80* summer weather , only once on a hot day in stop and go traffic have I seen it hit 200* . If water didn`t EVAPORATE at lower temps Id have a milkshake in the motors but I don`t. GM engineers don`t think 212* oil temp is necessary.. I agree.
So then according to the 1600% increased ringwear theory my engine should be shot after one weekend?
Put water on the stove at a 150* or even in the sun on a hot day..it still EVAPORATES. It only BOILS at 212*
My Current GS runs 160* oil temps in the winter and 180* in 80* summer weather , only once on a hot day in stop and go traffic have I seen it hit 200* . If water didn`t EVAPORATE at lower temps Id have a milkshake in the motors but I don`t. GM engineers don`t think 212* oil temp is necessary.. I agree.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
I disagree with all of that ^
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
In the marine world, where engines are sea water cooled and we use oil stats to warm up the blocks oil temps and blocks temps are very low.
My water temp gauge never moves, always under 100* since I`m taking in 70* water. Rings are fine.
Most Mercury engines from factory and everyone else runs oil temps in the 150*, no issues.
My oil temp is usually around 140* in both motors , 900 hp , usually at 4-5k rpm for miles . Motors have been apart no issues. Bearings look great.
Oil won`t burn off condensation unless it`s 212* is an old wives tale.
Not really apples to bananas, I use oil stat to bring the oil temp up. In the end I end up with 150*oil and 100* water temp.
So then according to the 1600% increased ringwear theory my engine should be shot after one weekend?
Put water on the stove at a 150* or even in the sun on a hot day..it still EVAPORATES. It only BOILS at 212*
My Current GS runs 160* oil temps in the winter and 180* in 80* summer weather , only once on a hot day in stop and go traffic have I seen it hit 200* . If water didn`t EVAPORATE at lower temps Id have a milkshake in the motors but I don`t. GM engineers don`t think 212* oil temp is necessary.. I agree.
So then according to the 1600% increased ringwear theory my engine should be shot after one weekend?
Put water on the stove at a 150* or even in the sun on a hot day..it still EVAPORATES. It only BOILS at 212*
My Current GS runs 160* oil temps in the winter and 180* in 80* summer weather , only once on a hot day in stop and go traffic have I seen it hit 200* . If water didn`t EVAPORATE at lower temps Id have a milkshake in the motors but I don`t. GM engineers don`t think 212* oil temp is necessary.. I agree.
As for apples and oranges.. an application with an oil thermostat vs an application without cannot be compared if you want to compare oil temps of both, relative to water temp.
I agree with all about the difference between evaporating and boiling. My question about burning off the moisture was about burning it off aka boiling, not evaporating. But I get y'all's point and agree.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 19, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,303
Likes: 3,619
From: Central Cal.
While lower-temp evaporation is OK, higher temp "boiling off" (actually just faster evaporation) would be best for oil purity and function. Dan99Hawk's argument above really does not hold water. Those marine situations are examples of "barely getting away with it".
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
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I`m not going to argue obviously higher temperature oil is better and then it actually reached it`s full viscosity as it is measured at 100*c or 212*f.
lower temps are definitely not even remotely "barely getting away with it" as every marine engine runs cold oil temps and hardly any water temp,.
Here`s my Grand Sport after a 1 hour highway trip in the winter. Them GM engineers sure are just barely getting away with it I guess lol
lower temps are definitely not even remotely "barely getting away with it" as every marine engine runs cold oil temps and hardly any water temp,.
Here`s my Grand Sport after a 1 hour highway trip in the winter. Them GM engineers sure are just barely getting away with it I guess lol
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 9
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lol it`s not bad for it either.
I`m in Chicago.
Check out the 2.33 mark. Second gauge from the right is my oil temp. (153*) Those are endurance engine. No gears , at 4000rpm I`m making 4lbs of boost and probably 600hp just to keep the speed at 60mph. Lots of load, lots of stress. I do this every weekend in the summer.
If the wives tales were true I`d have to change my oil every weekend due to condensation and my rings every year, lots of blow by etc etc . That`s simply not the case not even with a pair of 900 hp endurance engines
I`m in Chicago.
Check out the 2.33 mark. Second gauge from the right is my oil temp. (153*) Those are endurance engine. No gears , at 4000rpm I`m making 4lbs of boost and probably 600hp just to keep the speed at 60mph. Lots of load, lots of stress. I do this every weekend in the summer.
If the wives tales were true I`d have to change my oil every weekend due to condensation and my rings every year, lots of blow by etc etc . That`s simply not the case not even with a pair of 900 hp endurance engines
You keep knocking the info in this thread while showing oil temps at a minimum of 140 degrees, my first post said oil must be at a minimum of 140 degrees. You also keep referencing water temp vs oil temp yet you have an oil thermostat....
"marine engines run cold oil temps and hardly any water temp" really? my chevy small block in my boat runs at 170-180 degrees. Right where it has for the last 27 years.
"marine engines run cold oil temps and hardly any water temp" really? my chevy small block in my boat runs at 170-180 degrees. Right where it has for the last 27 years.