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Help choosing some RODS

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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 11:57 PM
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Default Help choosing some RODS

Hi all, I had bought some Wiseco boostline connecting rods and had already assembled 5 pistons and rods, I got an email from the company I bought them from telling me wiseco was recalling those rods because of the lube used could pull the thread when taking apart.. I ended up trying to contact Wiseco and after the 10th call I finally got a hold of someone, I explained the situation and he said he would call me back but of course he never did..

I really need a connecting rod that will be good with boost to hold a minimum of 1k HP.. The company that I bought the rods from said they will return my money and give me some free rods or work with me on what I need, they wanted to give me K1 rods but the engine builder helping me out said they suck and wouldn't use them..


Please shoot me some options for rods.

they work with these companies and these are some options

-Manley
-Cp carrillo
-Eagle
-K1
-Pauter
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 02:50 AM
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nothing wrong with k1 rods, lol. easily as good as any other budget forged rod.
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 07:30 AM
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Have you torqued the bolts yet? What lube do the rods come with?
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 11:35 AM
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Haven't torqued them or even installed them. I took the bolts off every rod, and some came off harder than others but didn't pull the thread. Came with Lucas synthetic grease.
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 12:28 AM
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No one has suggestions??? Good rod for 1k HP?
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mannyman84
Haven't torqued them or even installed them. I took the bolts off every rod, and some came off harder than others but didn't pull the thread. Came with Lucas synthetic grease.
If the lube is the problem, I would just use a different lube. CMD high pressure lube is one of, if not THE best stuff out there. I would have your builder clean the threads, apply CMD, and torque the bolt to the recommended stretch value and note the torque it takes to get there. Double check bearing clearances and assemble.

If you really want to switch rods, Callies Ultra rods would probably be my first choice. K1 makes an nice rod too though. Not sure why your engine builder would say they're junk.
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 09:43 AM
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Default Crower Connecting Rods

Hi Manny, I suggest Crower rods with a "beam" increase for your 1000+HP requirement.

I have a great "below" WD pricing with Crower.

I would NOT fit Eagle/Comp/China rods for you needs.

Carrillo (American) and other "US made" rods would work fine.

I would fit a M-350 pin with DCL.

Lance
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DietCoke
nothing wrong with k1 rods, lol. easily as good as any other budget forged rod.
x2, K1 have held north of 1200 for years. But even stock Gen4 rods handle north of 900 so really depends on your goals.
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 06:13 PM
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Anybody using OLIVER rods in an LS? How would they compare to Crower?

Spending an extra $500-$700 on a set of rods for a high end product seems smart.
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 10:17 PM
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Thank you all for the responses, all these rods I'm looking in to are either out of my budget or not "cleared for stroker engines".. which I don't know what the difference is between them. I have an ls3 block re sleeved to fit 4.125 pistons. not sure how stroker is that. my budget is about 1500 and I'm able to spare couple hundred if necessary. I was looking in to the carrillo rods and some are close to 3k.. callies ultra rods are not cleared for stroker and others don't seem up to par.. still confused
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 10:21 PM
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4 inch stroke, 4.125 pistons, and 6.125 rods
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 08:24 AM
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With a 4" stroke, just about any rod should fit whether or not it's "stroker clearanced". You may just need to have the block clearanced a little more at the bottom of the cylinders. That "stroker clearance" becomes important with larger strokes, like 4.250" where the rod might hit the cam.
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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Default Pankl Rods

Hi Manny, I also supply/fit Pankl rods.

Would you like that quote ?

Lance
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 09:47 AM
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I have Crower I-beams in my 404. The block required no clearancing.
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