Front and rr cover, and pan alignment tools
10-31-2017 | 05:28 PM
#1
Front and rr cover, and pan alignment tools On my LS3 according to the shop manual I'm supposed to use some special alignment tools when installing my front, and rear covers, and oil pan.
The new front and rear covers came from GM OEM parts, with the seals already installed.
The tools specified are incredibly expensive. Specifically the P/N EN-48853 FRT COVER ALIGNMENT TOOL. It's like almost 1K OMG!!!!
The other one is J-41480 FRONT and REAR COVER ALIGNMENT TOOL, is a bit more affordable at like $215.12.
The first one is for aligning the front cover to the crank shaft, and the other is for getting the front and rear covers perfectly flush for the oil pan.
Looking at it, I'm not even sure the first tool would work unless I remove the seal first.
And the second tool is basically just a bolt on sort of straight edge.
Question I have is, is it really necessary to use these tools?
I'm thinking as long as I'm careful I should be able to get these covers on correctly and just use a straight edge to make the sure the pan will line up flush.
Any advice?
The new front and rear covers came from GM OEM parts, with the seals already installed.
The tools specified are incredibly expensive. Specifically the P/N EN-48853 FRT COVER ALIGNMENT TOOL. It's like almost 1K OMG!!!!
The other one is J-41480 FRONT and REAR COVER ALIGNMENT TOOL, is a bit more affordable at like $215.12.
The first one is for aligning the front cover to the crank shaft, and the other is for getting the front and rear covers perfectly flush for the oil pan.
Looking at it, I'm not even sure the first tool would work unless I remove the seal first.
And the second tool is basically just a bolt on sort of straight edge.
Question I have is, is it really necessary to use these tools?
I'm thinking as long as I'm careful I should be able to get these covers on correctly and just use a straight edge to make the sure the pan will line up flush.
Any advice?
10-31-2017 | 06:07 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NYC
10-31-2017 | 07:39 PM
#3
You’ll get different opinions on this subject. I do not build engines for a living any more, but I’ve put plenty of ls engines together without the alignment tools, and no leaks for me. The rear cover self aligns on the crank hub, and the front cover, I don’t tighten until I put the balancer on, which aligns it for me.
I’m careful on both ends to make sure that my covers are level, and equal distances to the pan rails on both sides. There is a lot of play in that area, so I’m careful to make sure that the covers are “square” with the pan rails.
I’ve never had an instance where my covers are higher than the pan rails, or lower than the pan rails, so for me, pulling the covers down to align to the pan rails hasn’t been necessary, which to me it seems would cause a major seal leak in the first place. I’ve read of people using their front and rear pan bolts to pull the covers down, to align the covers with the pan rails, and it seems to me that would cause the rear/front seals to leak...I don’t know about that as I haven’t tried that before...never had to.
Having said that, the tools are probably essential for the shops building ls engines on a daily basis. I imagine it would speed things up considerably. I’m a tool freak, and will probably purchase a set in the future...lol.
I’m careful on both ends to make sure that my covers are level, and equal distances to the pan rails on both sides. There is a lot of play in that area, so I’m careful to make sure that the covers are “square” with the pan rails.
I’ve never had an instance where my covers are higher than the pan rails, or lower than the pan rails, so for me, pulling the covers down to align to the pan rails hasn’t been necessary, which to me it seems would cause a major seal leak in the first place. I’ve read of people using their front and rear pan bolts to pull the covers down, to align the covers with the pan rails, and it seems to me that would cause the rear/front seals to leak...I don’t know about that as I haven’t tried that before...never had to.
Having said that, the tools are probably essential for the shops building ls engines on a daily basis. I imagine it would speed things up considerably. I’m a tool freak, and will probably purchase a set in the future...lol.
10-31-2017 | 08:55 PM
#5
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 985
Likes: 10
I have replaced my fair share of front and rear covers, seals, oil pan gsk. and never used
a tool, no problems, like che70velle said, don't tighten front cover till Balancer installed, and
rear cover with seal already installed in cover align's itself. I put a dab of silicone in the joints, and always let it dry before I dump oil in, Just keep some common sense
in one hand and you will be fine.
a tool, no problems, like che70velle said, don't tighten front cover till Balancer installed, and
rear cover with seal already installed in cover align's itself. I put a dab of silicone in the joints, and always let it dry before I dump oil in, Just keep some common sense
in one hand and you will be fine.
11-01-2017 | 08:16 AM
#7
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,267
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From: Monroe,NY
The biggest thing is to make sure the oil pan is flush with the block. Use a straight edge to align. If it over hangs when you tighten the transmission you will crack the pan or bell housing. Also make sure you don't over tighten the the oil pan long bolts many have snapped those bolts.