Congratulations Joe!
Great timing for the Holidays.

 

Icing on the cake!

 

Congratulations! That's really cool.

 

Any plans of dynoing this thing with the Holley Sniper? Would be very interested to see where torque and power peak fall, as well as how high it carries past peak.

 

I keep thinking I will, but between travel and home improvement the car has hit the back burner. I had to redo my foundation, remove some trees, redo the gas main, etc, and still have more stuff to get done.

The dyno run I did was on the sniper. Had really bad wheel slip on the dyno. Peak power was at 7000. Carried out to 7600 when let up. And it was lean the whole time. 13.5 AFR and injectors went static. I got the bigger injectors in, but I still am betting I need more fuel pump capacity. I have it but no time to get it in the car.

 

Dang, that's a lot of work on the house!

I'm trying to cam my ls7 build to minimize midrange, peak ~7200 and shift 7800-8000. It needs to pull essentially from 5500 - 8000. I've gotten some decent feedback on my first SWAG at cam specs, but am a little worried it might be big.

Low pro sniper, 285cc heads, ~12:1 on 91 octane (mix of E85 for racing). Thoughts are tight lash solid, .010-.015" hot lash 258/276 on 116+2 which is ~28-30* overlap hot.

Hard to find much comparable data since most people would not want to be giving up 50+ ft lb through the midrange. I'd like to keep it limited ~475-500 rwtq if possible, but for as flat and as long as possible. 600rwtq would do nothing for me.

 

 

 

Darth, any updates on this beast? Been a while since I've been on here. Been out making that tax free money in the sandbox again.

 

Nothing major. I did some work to the timing table to smooth out driving even more. The new injectors are awesome. Allowed my to delay injection further, so MPG has improved a tad. I might get over 14 mpg mixed driving on this tank. I've recommended them to several members since I installed them. I have the upgraded fuel pump in my garage just sitting. I also am stuck between ordering a rear drag brake kit and not ordering, because I want the stopping power, but I don't want to lose the E brake. Basically, I could leave the car alone and very few street cars will run with it. but where's the fun in that?

I've got future plans, but not ready to spill on them entirely. Bottom line, I think my heads are the big limitation. I can't really put a finger on it. only going off of gut feeling. But I don't think I should need 26 degrees timing at max power on a 93 octane 12.3 compression LS7, but I do. So I think the heads burn slow. I also think i'm not getting the port velocity. I think with better port velocity I could run a bigger cam, make better power, and still drive nice, because the air would be moving in the right direction all the time.

I still plan to go ITB, but I need to get the heads right first. Once the heads are where I like them, the rest is bolt ons, so I can easily keep the car running in between mods. I also want to go back to the dyno and get a clean baseline pull without wheel slip before I do much else, just to know where I actually am. I've made educated estimates based on the 10.1@134 in 4000 DA and 3460 lb raceweight. That combined with measured airflows, injector size and duty cycle, and scaling factor. but then a friend of mine gained 40 HP with less airflow on logs, so I think I might be putting too much stock in my airflow numbers from HPT logs. Though I still rely on the g/cyl numbers for finding peak torque RPM. I want more compression, but I can't go much higher than I am now and stay 93 octane unless the combustion chambers allow for improved detonation sensitivity. I could always do E85, but I don't want to. So really, kind of boxed in, until I get past the heads, which allows me to open up the cam. Then ITB to tame the cam, and short of revving to 9000 RPM, I should be making as much power as possible for the displacement and fuel selection. Once everything is said and done, i'll dyno with 100 octane racing fuel to push the timing and see what she does.

On the distraction side, I did get the foundation fixed, reinforced the main beam of the house, got it ready to go for cutting out a wall and replacing with a steel I-beam. Wife found a loose tile in the bathroom floor. So I pried it up, thinking I would liquid nail it back down. Black mold. Ended up demolishing the tub and shower to get them out cause the damn door is too small. had to pull the subfloor to get rid of the mold. Replumbed. put the new subfloor down, hit a pipe with a nail gun, so I had to rip it apart again and fix it again. Then, the "While you're in there" phrase got spoken, so it turned into a full on construction project. I'm two weeks away from being able to put the new tile down and finally get that done. Then, I have one daughter graduating college this spring and another getting married this spring. All while still traveling every week for work. Other than that, not much going on.

 

Darth have you tried boostane fuel additive? I plan to run it on the dyno and see if it helps make more power.
My short block is built, will be a complete engine by the weekend and on the engine dyno this weekend.
cam fell in at 109.75 cl instead of cam card 108.2.
we advanced it 2degree to 107.75. Then we will tighten lash up on dyno and find best power. I'm pretty stoked on it this time as he really took pride in building this one. He is as excited to see what it makes as I am.

 

Darth, what lambda (AFR) do you see at 26 degrees...?

 

I never tried boostane. I have used torco but more to determine false vs real knock.

My lambda was holding 0.86 through peak torque. At peak power it got up to 0.90 and nothing helped it. Timing didn't change it too much that I remember.

 

boostane was worth 4hp on engine dyno with no changes. I was able to use 32 degrees timing as best on each gas we tried. It just likes 32

 

I have to say, I was surprised you only gained 14 with chp fuel. I figured with all that oxygen it would be more like 5%.

I'm surprised yours likes so much timing. But hey give it what it wants.

 

Damn bro that's a ton of sideline stuff with the house. Might as well be contracting lol. Glad you got most of it situated.

26* sounds like a ton for your setup. I have mine all the way down at 20*, but also because I had knock sensor issues to start where I had to play with sensitivity, so I am a tad apprehensive to push it without knock phones. The 0411 stock tune setting seemed even less sensitive (because it is) when I did my PCM swap from the 97-98 PCM, to the point I didn't get any knock anywhere. So this worried me too some degree too because I could of swore I heard it a few times in the mid range with nothing coming up in the scanner. That's why I have it set rather conservative, but I've heard of a lot of guys getting 24* on their strokers no problem.

It will be another year or so before I can even drive my car again since I'm still overseas at the moment. I would really like to get this thing on the dyno once I iron out the kinks, which are still present due to lack of time and the fact I am over here. Had a few wires cross due to the heatshrink melting though on the trans harness which caused some headaches before I left the states initially (last year). Was throwing the 758 code iirc, solenoid B electrical. Got that fixed when I was on leave back in December and had time for 2 drives, but no time to tune because the family wanted to spend time with me and ****... blah blah....

Of course on that drive I ended up getting some knock on a relatively hard pull but it was just a spike of about 8 degrees and not the stairstep, so I'm not so sure it was real or not. Then again the gas was 9 months old so it's tough to say.

Post another video man. Would love to hear this beast of yours again. A dyno video would be even cooler.

 

the advertising for it says 15-20hp more. I doubt I ever spend the money to run it though.

 

 

I'm looking into that rear brake actually. You like it? Is there a two caliper kit like strange?

 

I do like it. It’s a single caliper. Stops wat better than stock. Well that’s just a dumb comparison on my part.

Only thing is the hook on the e brake to the e brake cables are opposite of the stock one, so you have to strategically route those e brake cables. But you can get full engagement.