Having low oil pressure after AFM delete in a 5.3 LH6.
09-09-2018, 09:56 AM
#22
TECH Senior Member
09-09-2018, 05:09 PM
#23
The M295 is ok but you cannot beat the 10295 for quality and reliability. Our rpmspeed pumps are nice also and have a ported option and everyone of the ported ones gets disassembled, checked, ported, and reassembled by me personally so they are basically blueprinted. Im finishing up 15 of them today. But im not going to pretend they are as good as the 10295. Our pumps are a great pump that is priced well.
We may be offering 10295 ported pumps soon also, but they are higher than the normal pumps so price point may be an issue to some.
We may be offering 10295 ported pumps soon also, but they are higher than the normal pumps so price point may be an issue to some.
09-10-2018, 02:30 AM
#24
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So you guys think it could be the pump? Also, from what I've heard everyone talk about is the M295 or 10295. I got a 10355, I thought was better but not so much in my case. At least I'm coming down to some conclusions. Once the rivets come in, I'll finally know if we need to drop the pan again.
If its the pump, I probably would rather have a checked over and ported one. Just to be sure, because this oil pressure is driving me crazy at this point.
Also, if mine does so happen to have that oil filter bypass, that wouldn't affect the pressure anyways? Is there a benefit to it, other than the fact it forces the oil to move through the filter? Because what I've heard is that most oil filters have some kind of system for that within themselves, but I have no idea how the filter inside looks tbh.
If its the pump, I probably would rather have a checked over and ported one. Just to be sure, because this oil pressure is driving me crazy at this point.
Also, if mine does so happen to have that oil filter bypass, that wouldn't affect the pressure anyways? Is there a benefit to it, other than the fact it forces the oil to move through the filter? Because what I've heard is that most oil filters have some kind of system for that within themselves, but I have no idea how the filter inside looks tbh.
09-16-2018, 09:45 PM
#26
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Well, the Lingenfelter rivet kit did not seem to help at all with the pressure. I also snapped a intake manifold bolt sadly, I overtorqued on accident. And I think I might have overtorqued a valley cover bolt to. It had tension, but it still spun when the others don't. Everything sounds smooth, no oil on the ground. I know I'll have to address it, but I need the oil pressure first.
So it look like its gotta be the pump, or that o-ring. Because I still don't understand why a 10355 pump would fail like this. If anything it should have high pressure, which I know isn't good either if its too high.
So it look like its gotta be the pump, or that o-ring. Because I still don't understand why a 10355 pump would fail like this. If anything it should have high pressure, which I know isn't good either if its too high.
09-16-2018, 10:18 PM
#27
TECH Senior Member
The Lingenfelter kit should have shown no difference in pressure. It's more of an insurance policy against O-ring leakage, and was never meant to be more than that.
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DualQuadDave (12-22-2020)
09-17-2018, 10:48 AM
#29
TECH Senior Member
09-17-2018, 11:29 AM
#30
Can you not just leave the DOD turned off and have good oil pressure?
Or I guess what I want to know is why do you have to block off the towers when doing a DOD delete? I assumed leaving the system off would be fine.
And can you explain more about the relief valves and how they work with the DOD system, and why it has to be blocked off with a DOD delete? I know you're a busy man but I've searched some and you know how it is, there's a bunch of people talking about it but not a lot that know what they are talking about. And I trust your word on it.
Also, when you mentioned the oil filter bypass that "short circuits", are you referring to the barbell? (That one that saccity corvette makes an upgrade for?)
09-17-2018, 11:54 AM
#31
When GM went to the newer PF48 filter and pan designs, on the older gen pans they never cast in the bypass valve. On the "gen4 pans" ,save for the gto and tbss, they have a secondary (actually a third) pressure relief valve screwed into the inside of the pan. Ive seen them open from 50 to 60psi.
Gm noticed an issue with their design though. The valve pushes the bypassed oil onto the crank/rod/cyl wall and causes issues. So now the have a push on "splash guard/oil fiverter"cover that goes over it.
The main issue with that plug is it kills main bearings. Esp on LSA engines. The newer pans already use an oil filter that has a built in bypass AND the pump itself has an internal bypass, so why short circuit the oil feed system another time?
The saccity barbell isnt even in this picture. Its a great precision piece. They make an oil bypass blockoff plug that goes in the earlier pans right above the oil filter. They have some great pics of it on their site.
As far as the towers go, they are really just another oil "void" to be filled up. So blocking any extra amount of oil that would fill them up is a good thing PLUS the valley covers and their o rings can trap debris at the top of the towers also or can warp or blow out and cause an internal leak.
The lifter trays already hold alot of oil in them anyway, so why have even more areas for problems? keeping the oil circulating keeps the gunk buildup at a minimum, keeps the oil cooler, and helps keep the oil filtered without bypassing the filter in a myriad of ways.
Before lingenfelter came out with that rivet tool, everyone was tapping their blocks and plugging the holes pretty much. That normally required complete block disassembly. They just made it an easier, in car way of doing it.
By eliminating the bypass on LSA engines, i know of 2 companies that have stopped burning up the coated gm main bearings on LSAs alone on engine dynos. They have a pretty big issue with that also due to the oil squirters, so in that case every pound of pressure and drop of oil counts.
Long winded, but hope that helps.
Gm noticed an issue with their design though. The valve pushes the bypassed oil onto the crank/rod/cyl wall and causes issues. So now the have a push on "splash guard/oil fiverter"cover that goes over it.
The main issue with that plug is it kills main bearings. Esp on LSA engines. The newer pans already use an oil filter that has a built in bypass AND the pump itself has an internal bypass, so why short circuit the oil feed system another time?
The saccity barbell isnt even in this picture. Its a great precision piece. They make an oil bypass blockoff plug that goes in the earlier pans right above the oil filter. They have some great pics of it on their site.
As far as the towers go, they are really just another oil "void" to be filled up. So blocking any extra amount of oil that would fill them up is a good thing PLUS the valley covers and their o rings can trap debris at the top of the towers also or can warp or blow out and cause an internal leak.
The lifter trays already hold alot of oil in them anyway, so why have even more areas for problems? keeping the oil circulating keeps the gunk buildup at a minimum, keeps the oil cooler, and helps keep the oil filtered without bypassing the filter in a myriad of ways.
Before lingenfelter came out with that rivet tool, everyone was tapping their blocks and plugging the holes pretty much. That normally required complete block disassembly. They just made it an easier, in car way of doing it.
By eliminating the bypass on LSA engines, i know of 2 companies that have stopped burning up the coated gm main bearings on LSAs alone on engine dynos. They have a pretty big issue with that also due to the oil squirters, so in that case every pound of pressure and drop of oil counts.
Long winded, but hope that helps.
09-17-2018, 12:27 PM
#32
I guess what I don't understand is the rivet closes off the top of the tower, there isn't much volume between the top of the tower and the solenoid so if the solenoid just stays closed it's the same as closing off the top of the tower. So I was trying to see how the rivets or plugs were any different than leaving the system off. And on top of that, when the system isn't disabled or removed but isn't active oil pressure is just fine, which is the same as just turning the system off, so I'm not sure why I keep seeing that you "have to plug it". Why do I have to if it works just fine without them blocked when the system is off.
Is the only real difference that the seals on the valley cover can leak therefore a block off is better?
Thanks for the info on the check valves. I turned off my DOD in my 14 truck and if the lifters ever go bad I plan on swapping the cam and going to all std lifters and needed to know pertinent things I should do outside the lifter and cam swap. Sounds like the towers are all I need to be concerned with...? If I got all your info right that is. I'd also like to do a 6.2 before too long and I want to remove DOD before installing the engine.
Is the only real difference that the seals on the valley cover can leak therefore a block off is better?
Thanks for the info on the check valves. I turned off my DOD in my 14 truck and if the lifters ever go bad I plan on swapping the cam and going to all std lifters and needed to know pertinent things I should do outside the lifter and cam swap. Sounds like the towers are all I need to be concerned with...? If I got all your info right that is. I'd also like to do a 6.2 before too long and I want to remove DOD before installing the engine.
09-30-2018, 11:10 PM
#35
When GM went to the newer PF48 filter and pan designs, on the older gen pans they never cast in the bypass valve. On the "gen4 pans" ,save for the gto and tbss, they have a secondary (actually a third) pressure relief valve screwed into the inside of the pan. Ive seen them open from 50 to 60psi.
Gm noticed an issue with their design though. The valve pushes the bypassed oil onto the crank/rod/cyl wall and causes issues. So now the have a push on "splash guard/oil fiverter"cover that goes over it.
The main issue with that plug is it kills main bearings. Esp on LSA engines. The newer pans already use an oil filter that has a built in bypass AND the pump itself has an internal bypass, so why short circuit the oil feed system another time?
The saccity barbell isnt even in this picture. Its a great precision piece. They make an oil bypass blockoff plug that goes in the earlier pans right above the oil filter. They have some great pics of it on their site.
As far as the towers go, they are really just another oil "void" to be filled up. So blocking any extra amount of oil that would fill them up is a good thing PLUS the valley covers and their o rings can trap debris at the top of the towers also or can warp or blow out and cause an internal leak.
The lifter trays already hold alot of oil in them anyway, so why have even more areas for problems? keeping the oil circulating keeps the gunk buildup at a minimum, keeps the oil cooler, and helps keep the oil filtered without bypassing the filter in a myriad of ways.
Before lingenfelter came out with that rivet tool, everyone was tapping their blocks and plugging the holes pretty much. That normally required complete block disassembly. They just made it an easier, in car way of doing it.
By eliminating the bypass on LSA engines, i know of 2 companies that have stopped burning up the coated gm main bearings on LSAs alone on engine dynos. They have a pretty big issue with that also due to the oil squirters, so in that case every pound of pressure and drop of oil counts.
Long winded, but hope that helps.
Gm noticed an issue with their design though. The valve pushes the bypassed oil onto the crank/rod/cyl wall and causes issues. So now the have a push on "splash guard/oil fiverter"cover that goes over it.
The main issue with that plug is it kills main bearings. Esp on LSA engines. The newer pans already use an oil filter that has a built in bypass AND the pump itself has an internal bypass, so why short circuit the oil feed system another time?
The saccity barbell isnt even in this picture. Its a great precision piece. They make an oil bypass blockoff plug that goes in the earlier pans right above the oil filter. They have some great pics of it on their site.
As far as the towers go, they are really just another oil "void" to be filled up. So blocking any extra amount of oil that would fill them up is a good thing PLUS the valley covers and their o rings can trap debris at the top of the towers also or can warp or blow out and cause an internal leak.
The lifter trays already hold alot of oil in them anyway, so why have even more areas for problems? keeping the oil circulating keeps the gunk buildup at a minimum, keeps the oil cooler, and helps keep the oil filtered without bypassing the filter in a myriad of ways.
Before lingenfelter came out with that rivet tool, everyone was tapping their blocks and plugging the holes pretty much. That normally required complete block disassembly. They just made it an easier, in car way of doing it.
By eliminating the bypass on LSA engines, i know of 2 companies that have stopped burning up the coated gm main bearings on LSAs alone on engine dynos. They have a pretty big issue with that also due to the oil squirters, so in that case every pound of pressure and drop of oil counts.
Long winded, but hope that helps.
09-30-2018, 11:15 PM
#36
Spending a bunch of money on an afm cam and keeping the lifters wont change the fact that its a terrible design and they will still fail.
You will gain mpg and power by deleting it. Esp when just 4 new afm lifters are 2x the price of 1 set of ls7s or more.
Ive had friends shops where customers will do that and come back with a failure in 2k to 10k miles. why spend money twice or more when you can do it right the first time?
And yes, on the lsa engines that extra oil bypass was burning the bearings esp above stock power levels.
You sacrifice so much to make an afm performance lobe its not really any gain vs just a stock ls2 cam. and thats saying alot.
You will gain mpg and power by deleting it. Esp when just 4 new afm lifters are 2x the price of 1 set of ls7s or more.
Ive had friends shops where customers will do that and come back with a failure in 2k to 10k miles. why spend money twice or more when you can do it right the first time?
And yes, on the lsa engines that extra oil bypass was burning the bearings esp above stock power levels.
You sacrifice so much to make an afm performance lobe its not really any gain vs just a stock ls2 cam. and thats saying alot.
10-01-2018, 12:59 AM
#37
Spending a bunch of money on an afm cam and keeping the lifters wont change the fact that its a terrible design and they will still fail.
You will gain mpg and power by deleting it. Esp when just 4 new afm lifters are 2x the price of 1 set of ls7s or more.
Ive had friends shops where customers will do that and come back with a failure in 2k to 10k miles. why spend money twice or more when you can do it right the first time?
And yes, on the lsa engines that extra oil bypass was burning the bearings esp above stock power levels.
You sacrifice so much to make an afm performance lobe its not really any gain vs just a stock ls2 cam. and thats saying alot.
You will gain mpg and power by deleting it. Esp when just 4 new afm lifters are 2x the price of 1 set of ls7s or more.
Ive had friends shops where customers will do that and come back with a failure in 2k to 10k miles. why spend money twice or more when you can do it right the first time?
And yes, on the lsa engines that extra oil bypass was burning the bearings esp above stock power levels.
You sacrifice so much to make an afm performance lobe its not really any gain vs just a stock ls2 cam. and thats saying alot.
10-01-2018, 02:34 AM
#38
The tsp stage 2 high lift. I use it in my DD 2500HD and i tow and haul alot with it also. had it for 25k miles so far 0 issues. It gives the power and mpg i want.
We speak with experience on nearly all of the cams we sell and design. it is the best to go with.
We speak with experience on nearly all of the cams we sell and design. it is the best to go with.
10-02-2018, 08:25 PM
#40
Oh ok thanks. I'll definitely look into that cam