Having low oil pressure after AFM delete in a 5.3 LH6.
12-19-2020, 07:20 AM
#81
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38 psi oil pressure at start up, 6 psi after 4 minutes of driving 50 miles after afm delete.The manual gauge moves with rpms but has low pressure at idle with a slight lifter tick around #7. After sitting the oil pressure goes back to normal at cold with no tick. I have already deleted the afm relief valve in the oil pan, and I have the o ring valley cover. Did the rivets solve the problem?
03-16-2021, 11:01 AM
#82
Bumping this up. I avoid AFM motors like the plague but we just did an LH6 that had the low oil pressure issue after AFM delete and it was solved by replacing the AFM valley cover. You could see clear evidence of oil washing out of the AFM solenoids and around the orings on the columns.
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
03-16-2021, 12:24 PM
#83
Bumping this up. I avoid AFM motors like the plague but we just did an LH6 that had the low oil pressure issue after AFM delete and it was solved by replacing the AFM valley cover. You could see clear evidence of oil washing out of the AFM solenoids and around the orings on the columns.
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
I did delete the oil bypass valve in the oil pan, and I have 60psi at start up and it settles at around 40psi when warm...
03-16-2021, 12:37 PM
#84
Of course some have good luck, while others do not. Nothing seems problematic until it affects you personally. Its really about odds and doing what we can to improve odds. Ditching AFM and especially the AFM solenoids valley cover increases your odds of a longer lasting better performing motor.
03-16-2021, 05:27 PM
#85
So you deleted the bypass valve in the oil pan, but still have active AFM? Does it also have VVT?
03-18-2021, 01:20 AM
#86
Yes, I deleted the pressure relief pan valve - and still have an active AFM system.
My issue was 0psi oil pressure after warm up. After changing the oil pressure sending unit + screen, oil pump + o-ring to the pump pick up: with no success,
I studied the oil system closer - and dropped the oil pan for a second time. Installed a plug in place of the oil relief valve inside of the pan, and now my pressure is probably high - but it has been around 40000 miles and it runs pretty good.
No, my engine does not have VVT.
My issue was 0psi oil pressure after warm up. After changing the oil pressure sending unit + screen, oil pump + o-ring to the pump pick up: with no success,
I studied the oil system closer - and dropped the oil pan for a second time. Installed a plug in place of the oil relief valve inside of the pan, and now my pressure is probably high - but it has been around 40000 miles and it runs pretty good.
No, my engine does not have VVT.
03-26-2021, 08:48 PM
#87
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Lingenfelter rivets Having same oil pressure issues with my 07 suburban 5.3l did full top end rebuild myself even had the heads reworked. Can I buy the lingenfelter rivets from summit or somewhere like that?
03-27-2021, 08:28 AM
#88
You dont need the rivets if you change the valley cover to an LS3/L92 style without AFM. We installed the one with the black o-rings ( seem thicker than the orange ) and oil pressure came back up immediately. I took a look for the Delco part number its around here somewhere I cant find it right now but the cover with gaskets was around 50 bucks. One day ship from everyones favorite prime resource 
For what its worth if you want to add the AFM delete PCV style cover which is spendy I have that part number handy its
For what its worth if you want to add the AFM delete PCV style cover which is spendy I have that part number handy its
12570471
09-03-2021, 11:20 AM
#89
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Curious if you found the issue Hey i am currentlyin the same boat you was in and what resolvedy our problem thanks in advance Roy
Hi guys, this'll be my first post and sadly still having some problems. I have a 2007 GMC Envoy Denali, and the Denalis have a LH6 LS. Thought that would be like a badass little tahoe, and I'm not really wrong. I really like it actually.
But anyways, I had lifter tick right after getting the suv. Decided to do an AFM delete and have a tech I know who works at a Chevy dealership do the work for me. I got all the parts for that delete, and gave him the keys.
Once he started tearing into it, he noticed shiny material. He told me about it, and showed me the oil pan and there was cam bearing material everywhere. Like chunks. We pulled the engine. And he said when taking it apart, the connecting rod caps were off on the torque. Some came loose super easy apparently, while others were very tight. The crank is newer aswell, which really had my tech confused.
So basically on top of the AFM delete (aswell as pretty much all the gaskets) , I bought new cam bearings, connecting rod bearings and bolts, melling oil pump, new water pump, new belts, piston rings, and also had him hone the block. He also cleaned the crap out of everything trying to get all the bearing material out. He said it was cranking smooth and looked good before he put it in.
Everything is now back together, and honestly runs great. Had another tech delete the AFM codes in the ecm and he also did some things for throttle response and fuel delivery. It runs really well. But as soon as the engine gets warmed up, the pressure drops off. It gets about 35 to 40 on cold start, and it has gotten as low as 5 (according to scanner) after driving for a while and checking it. As soon as I step on the gas, it'll go back up but only to like 20-30. I have the CEL for low oil pressure. Even changed the sensor, didn't do anything.
From what I've researched, I think the most likely cause is either the oil pan o-ring, or some stuck debris in the inlet, screen or something. But would like to hear others opinions aswell. Because I'm really trying to get this done with and have good pressure.
But anyways, I had lifter tick right after getting the suv. Decided to do an AFM delete and have a tech I know who works at a Chevy dealership do the work for me. I got all the parts for that delete, and gave him the keys.
Once he started tearing into it, he noticed shiny material. He told me about it, and showed me the oil pan and there was cam bearing material everywhere. Like chunks. We pulled the engine. And he said when taking it apart, the connecting rod caps were off on the torque. Some came loose super easy apparently, while others were very tight. The crank is newer aswell, which really had my tech confused.
So basically on top of the AFM delete (aswell as pretty much all the gaskets) , I bought new cam bearings, connecting rod bearings and bolts, melling oil pump, new water pump, new belts, piston rings, and also had him hone the block. He also cleaned the crap out of everything trying to get all the bearing material out. He said it was cranking smooth and looked good before he put it in.
Everything is now back together, and honestly runs great. Had another tech delete the AFM codes in the ecm and he also did some things for throttle response and fuel delivery. It runs really well. But as soon as the engine gets warmed up, the pressure drops off. It gets about 35 to 40 on cold start, and it has gotten as low as 5 (according to scanner) after driving for a while and checking it. As soon as I step on the gas, it'll go back up but only to like 20-30. I have the CEL for low oil pressure. Even changed the sensor, didn't do anything.
From what I've researched, I think the most likely cause is either the oil pan o-ring, or some stuck debris in the inlet, screen or something. But would like to hear others opinions aswell. Because I'm really trying to get this done with and have good pressure.
12-25-2021, 08:09 AM
#90
Teching In
Bumping this up. I avoid AFM motors like the plague but we just did an LH6 that had the low oil pressure issue after AFM delete and it was solved by replacing the AFM valley cover. You could see clear evidence of oil washing out of the AFM solenoids and around the orings on the columns.
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
A service note to all to ditch AFM asap. Its garbage imo
12-25-2021, 10:53 AM
#91
TECH Senior Member
The towers NEED to be blocked or you lose all oil pressure.
12-25-2021, 01:38 PM
#92
Teching In
Will switching to the L92 valley pan take care of that? I am just running the AFM delete tune. I still have all the DOD pieces installed. Lifter 7 came back to life so I haven’t done the complete swap yet.
12-25-2021, 01:51 PM
#93
TECH Senior Member
If it's the later L92 valley cover, then yes. Early (pre-April 1, 2006) L92's came with DOD stuff but didn't use it.
You might also consider tapping the towers for allen screws to assure a good seal, besides using the L92 cover.
You might also consider tapping the towers for allen screws to assure a good seal, besides using the L92 cover.
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FamilymanGXP (12-25-2021)
12-27-2021, 11:31 PM
#94
It is best to not even monkey around and waste time and money jockeying valley covers and delete the whole system. Otherwise youre spending money on something that is going to fail again
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tblentrprz (01-03-2022)
12-30-2021, 08:38 PM
#95
G Aramaic & wws store (?)
I have a LY6 that I swapped to a Camaro4 pan but still have the VVT oil pump. I got a SUMMIT RACING ghost cam to switch to in the spring.
Is there really a problem running the VVT oil pump? I’ve read some people don’t have any problems and seem a video the SDPC put our saying it’s ok to use on a motor with the VVT removed
What I don’t want is another headache. Lol. Why did I ever get back into cars lol
thanks,
jim
I have a LY6 that I swapped to a Camaro4 pan but still have the VVT oil pump. I got a SUMMIT RACING ghost cam to switch to in the spring.
Is there really a problem running the VVT oil pump? I’ve read some people don’t have any problems and seem a video the SDPC put our saying it’s ok to use on a motor with the VVT removed
What I don’t want is another headache. Lol. Why did I ever get back into cars lol
thanks,
jim
12-30-2021, 10:00 PM
#96
TECH Senior Member
Jim- The VVT oil pump is a high volume pump, and I doubt it will do any harm in itself.
I THINK there is a valve near the filter base that should be disabled, but better minds would know more about that.
G Atsma
I THINK there is a valve near the filter base that should be disabled, but better minds would know more about that.
G Atsma
12-31-2021, 04:31 PM
#97
G ATsma,
are you referring to the one that’s right next to the filter? Directly under the edge? I have a 98-02 Camaro pan(GMPP) if that makes a difference. I might have to go bother Darth since I have a few other questions for hom
are you referring to the one that’s right next to the filter? Directly under the edge? I have a 98-02 Camaro pan(GMPP) if that makes a difference. I might have to go bother Darth since I have a few other questions for hom
12-31-2021, 06:00 PM
#98
TECH Senior Member
I think that's it. I would hit up Master Darth for this and other required wisdom....
01-03-2022, 08:23 PM
#99
Using a VVT/high volume pump when the engine doesn't need the oil volume to achieve oil pressure relief setting will just bypass and dump back to pan. Hope this makes sense.
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G Atsma (01-03-2022)
01-04-2022, 01:05 AM
#100
The only high volume pump is in the engines with BOTH vvt and afm and the hybrids. Otherwise it is std volume if vvt or afm.
Let me say that in simpler terms
Vvt and afm = high volume
Vvt only = std gm pump
Afm only = std gm pump
The reason, as you can assume is due to the extra oil control and volume needed to handle both systems that rely on oil pressure for everything and in turn bleed off a significant amount of volume when activated.
Hope that clears things up.
Let me say that in simpler terms
Vvt and afm = high volume
Vvt only = std gm pump
Afm only = std gm pump
The reason, as you can assume is due to the extra oil control and volume needed to handle both systems that rely on oil pressure for everything and in turn bleed off a significant amount of volume when activated.
Hope that clears things up.
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G Atsma (01-04-2022)