LS3 engine build !!! Helps!!!
02-22-2019, 04:51 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: michigan
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LS3 engine build !!! Helps!!! i have an almost brand new ls3 engine.
I cant decide on what I want to do with it (trying to make 1000hp+) its a weekend car that I’d like to consider as a daily driver if I had to (I live in Michigan) so that’s never gonna happen.
i don’t wanna run boost with stock internals.
so forged rotating assembly it is (what’s the best kits out there?) I wanna bore out the motor to 416ci and run boost but everyone is telling me not to bore it out just boost it instead. What is a good way to achieve both boring out and boost and be able to get more than 10k miles out of the build. I am working with a budget but I don’t mind saving some money and doing it right from the get go.
Oh btw this is going in a 98 ws6 with stage 3 tick 6 speed and 12 bolt rear end chromoly driver shaft. Bmr tubular k member with tubular upper and lower control arms, adjustable shocks all around, speed engineering true dual kit (have to change this exhaust setup once turbos are installed) tubular drive shaft safety loop, shortened rear axles, welded frame ties, strut tower brace. Lots more stuff I can’t remember at this moment lol.
I cant decide on what I want to do with it (trying to make 1000hp+) its a weekend car that I’d like to consider as a daily driver if I had to (I live in Michigan) so that’s never gonna happen.
i don’t wanna run boost with stock internals.
so forged rotating assembly it is (what’s the best kits out there?) I wanna bore out the motor to 416ci and run boost but everyone is telling me not to bore it out just boost it instead. What is a good way to achieve both boring out and boost and be able to get more than 10k miles out of the build. I am working with a budget but I don’t mind saving some money and doing it right from the get go.
Oh btw this is going in a 98 ws6 with stage 3 tick 6 speed and 12 bolt rear end chromoly driver shaft. Bmr tubular k member with tubular upper and lower control arms, adjustable shocks all around, speed engineering true dual kit (have to change this exhaust setup once turbos are installed) tubular drive shaft safety loop, shortened rear axles, welded frame ties, strut tower brace. Lots more stuff I can’t remember at this moment lol.
Last edited by taws6ali; 02-22-2019 at 04:58 PM.
02-22-2019, 05:50 PM
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
There will be many opinions here! But I'd say starting with a solid foundation and going forged on the rotating assembly is $$ well spent. You can make over 1,000 on the stock bottom end with some upgrades but if I was looking to go big I'd spend $$ in the right places. Some will say 376 turbo while others will say 402 or hell 408. I'd be thinking about keeping those cylinder walls as thick as I could though with those sleeved aluminum blocks, especially if I'm throwing high levels of boost on top of it all. So what it really boils down to here is what are your looking to do with the car, how much $$ are you willing to spend, and based on those choices determine how long before going back through that engine because once you start getting into those power numbers and actually beating on it your longevity becomes an issue. I built my engine for a 250+ shot of nitrous it may never see and it makes maybe 550 rwhp on just motor. It can get loose going down the highway at 45 mph when you down shift and stick your foot in it. There's always someone else out there that's faster and has more $$ to spend then you but I guess nowadays to be relevant you need turbos, be making 1,000 hp and running in the 9's. And what's worse is calling them street cars!
