GEN IV L92 VVT Cam Help...
Nicke,
I know your engine and your car is just little bit bigger than my setup but this could give you an idea for a cam for your setup. Here is what I am doing. 1965 Cutlass with a 6.0 iron block (L96 VVT) with flat top pistons, LS3 heads, truck intake with a 4L80 and a 3200 Stall FTI torque converter from Robert at Transbuilder Guy. I was just like you in that I wanted power across the entire powerband for street use. I removed the VVT and Steven over at Cam Motion spec'd me a 3 bolt cam 224/236 .595/.595 112 + 3. I also went with a .040" thickness head gaskets to raise the compression some. Also you could talk to Jarhead who is restoring a 1965 Cutlass with an LS3 and Mr. Bu who just restored a 1966 Chevelle with an LS3 and 4L80. I hope this helps.
I know your engine and your car is just little bit bigger than my setup but this could give you an idea for a cam for your setup. Here is what I am doing. 1965 Cutlass with a 6.0 iron block (L96 VVT) with flat top pistons, LS3 heads, truck intake with a 4L80 and a 3200 Stall FTI torque converter from Robert at Transbuilder Guy. I was just like you in that I wanted power across the entire powerband for street use. I removed the VVT and Steven over at Cam Motion spec'd me a 3 bolt cam 224/236 .595/.595 112 + 3. I also went with a .040" thickness head gaskets to raise the compression some. Also you could talk to Jarhead who is restoring a 1965 Cutlass with an LS3 and Mr. Bu who just restored a 1966 Chevelle with an LS3 and 4L80. I hope this helps.
My opinion doesn't count much, but same here. Saw some postings that GM implemented VVT to increase fuel economy, and then looking at the hp ratings of the 2009 vs 2010 Colorado 5.3L, they were exactly the same at 300hp, even though the 2010 had VVT, and 2009 was not. The was enough to sell me to ditch VVT as well, and just go LS3 build vs L92 build.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Likes: 73
From: south florida
ill give a little vvt love with my tsp cam experience,
did the dod/afm delete on my yukon 6.2/awd/6l80 with a smaller cam than you're looking at 218/228 - .600/.600 lift 113lca iirc., installed with pac 1219x springs, ls3 valves, hardened pushrods, stock retainers/keepers, cam limiter***, che trunions.
kind of snowballed into circle d stall,headers/ypipe/4" exhaust, 4.11s, flex sensor/tune, ls3 throttle body.
has been in for over a year, coming up on 35k miles ....daily got totaled - 120miles round trip to work for a few months added up quick. would drive to work all week then hit track, probably has 100+ passes on it. has been spun up to 7k rpm, seems like the more retard you throw at it the higher its wanted to rev, the limiter i used restricts me to 6-7* though so it starts to fall on its face way before then.another 5* would be nice
dont know if non-vvt cam could have done it better, dont care, had zero problems with it
did the dod/afm delete on my yukon 6.2/awd/6l80 with a smaller cam than you're looking at 218/228 - .600/.600 lift 113lca iirc., installed with pac 1219x springs, ls3 valves, hardened pushrods, stock retainers/keepers, cam limiter***, che trunions.
kind of snowballed into circle d stall,headers/ypipe/4" exhaust, 4.11s, flex sensor/tune, ls3 throttle body.
has been in for over a year, coming up on 35k miles ....daily got totaled - 120miles round trip to work for a few months added up quick. would drive to work all week then hit track, probably has 100+ passes on it. has been spun up to 7k rpm, seems like the more retard you throw at it the higher its wanted to rev, the limiter i used restricts me to 6-7* though so it starts to fall on its face way before then.another 5* would be nice
dont know if non-vvt cam could have done it better, dont care, had zero problems with it
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 207
Likes: 8
From: Spokane, WA
Nice!
Any other opinions? I'm particularly interested in thoughts on the comparison on these two cams, both of which are stock torque converter compatible:
TSP VVT 1.2 Cam Specs: 223/233, .629"/.629", 114 LSA. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5769-n...-camshaft.aspx
VS.
Comp Cams VVT 210/224, .556/.568" 114LSA http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1619&sb=2
Thoughts? Advantages of one vs. the other for street driving?
Thanks!
-Nick
Any other opinions? I'm particularly interested in thoughts on the comparison on these two cams, both of which are stock torque converter compatible:
TSP VVT 1.2 Cam Specs: 223/233, .629"/.629", 114 LSA. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5769-n...-camshaft.aspx
VS.
Comp Cams VVT 210/224, .556/.568" 114LSA http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1619&sb=2
Thoughts? Advantages of one vs. the other for street driving?
Thanks!
-Nick
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 230
Likes: 73
From: south florida
always said if i only ever planned on doing a cam, i wish i had gone larger. could always call up tsp and lay it out to them - sprinkle in wanting a little more reliability and they'll prob have something in mind around .600 with same duration. also to note these are showing for stock converter mated to a 6l80 that has a much shorter first gear than the 4l80. what was the plan for a converter - stock? behind trucks they're all pretty tight sub 2500rpm iirc.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 207
Likes: 8
From: Spokane, WA
always said if i only ever planned on doing a cam, i wish i had gone larger. could always call up tsp and lay it out to them - sprinkle in wanting a little more reliability and they'll prob have something in mind around .600 with same duration. also to note these are showing for stock converter mated to a 6l80 that has a much shorter first gear than the 4l80. what was the plan for a converter - stock? behind trucks they're all pretty tight sub 2500rpm iirc.
My original plan was the vvt 2.2 with a Yank 3200 converter, then I started to be realistic about my needs and decided that because I was going to be doing 95% street driving, and then I wanted to take it around an autocross course, that I could get away with a smaller cam, where power comes in early, and then I wouldn't need a converter.
So, I'm just trying to figure out what will be best. Like you mentioned, I still want reliability and good street manners.
-Nick
I can back up the increased RPM with VVT cam retarding. Its not that it makes more power, its just keeps carrying it out instead of falling on its face. I have spun mine to the stratosphere and paid the price with PTV contact just past 9000RPM. Yep, thats not a typo. After doing all that and going ape on the thing Im now a keep it to 6800RPM guy because Im really tired of pulling the thing apart all the time from all that RPM. I roasted the bearings from all the piston bob weight, never failed just wore em out faster than I would have liked. Same goes with valve springs and Im on a soft lobe cam too I wore two sets of springs out in less than 30k miles. Lifters ticked after one season etc etc etc.
Anyways that first cam is the thriller but only with a stall. With a stock stall it will be lazy imo but until you bolt it up and try? All just guesses, even with experience at some point cams are a guesstimate. This is why so many builds require a few cams to get it all juuuuuuuust right.
Anyways that first cam is the thriller but only with a stall. With a stock stall it will be lazy imo but until you bolt it up and try? All just guesses, even with experience at some point cams are a guesstimate. This is why so many builds require a few cams to get it all juuuuuuuust right.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 207
Likes: 8
From: Spokane, WA
Quick question. I plan on installing the cam myself.
I'm going to install the cam, new pushrods, springs, seals, trunion upgrade kit, and timing chain/ls2 timing chain dampener while I'm in there. I'm also going to replace my current stock 30lbs injectors for some 49lbs injectors.
Now, assuming I get all this stuff done in my garage. Is it safe to drive my car the 15 miles away to the shop to get it tuned or will I need to trailer it there? (I'm running an MAF still).
Thanks
-Nick
I'm going to install the cam, new pushrods, springs, seals, trunion upgrade kit, and timing chain/ls2 timing chain dampener while I'm in there. I'm also going to replace my current stock 30lbs injectors for some 49lbs injectors.
Now, assuming I get all this stuff done in my garage. Is it safe to drive my car the 15 miles away to the shop to get it tuned or will I need to trailer it there? (I'm running an MAF still).
Thanks
-Nick
Last edited by nicke; Mar 28, 2019 at 04:40 PM.
Be sure to use the VVT limiter kit and also be CERTAIN you get the matching cam core to your phaser and your supposed to get a new VVT bolt/valve as well as they are torque to yield. As for driving the car? I used to say yes this is fine go for it, but a couple years ago we washed the rings out of a small cam swapped 5.3 in 5 mins of driving. These engines use low tension rings and can wash FAST as a result so yes I have done the drive without tune after cam thing many times without issue, now I dont mess around and drive without tuning.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 207
Likes: 8
From: Spokane, WA
Good tips Cam. Yep, I'm for sure going to be replacing VVT cam bolt, Crank bolt, all new gaskets, and will put in the Comp VVT limiter kit/matched cam core.
Your story of washing the rings out convinces me to just throw it on a trailer for the quick trip. Not worth the risk to drive it.
Thank you!!!
-Nick
Your story of washing the rings out convinces me to just throw it on a trailer for the quick trip. Not worth the risk to drive it.
Thank you!!!
-Nick
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 231
Likes: 1
Comp Cam Nice!
Any other opinions? I'm particularly interested in thoughts on the comparison on these two cams, both of which are stock torque converter compatible:
TSP VVT 1.2 Cam Specs: 223/233, .629"/.629", 114 LSA. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5769-n...-camshaft.aspx
VS.
Comp Cams VVT 210/224, .556/.568" 114LSA http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1619&sb=2
Thoughts? Advantages of one vs. the other for street driving?
Thanks!
-Nick
Any other opinions? I'm particularly interested in thoughts on the comparison on these two cams, both of which are stock torque converter compatible:
TSP VVT 1.2 Cam Specs: 223/233, .629"/.629", 114 LSA. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5769-n...-camshaft.aspx
VS.
Comp Cams VVT 210/224, .556/.568" 114LSA http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1619&sb=2
Thoughts? Advantages of one vs. the other for street driving?
Thanks!
-Nick
the dyno guy had to work hard to get what he got
The 210/224 comp VVT cam puts down about 410 whp around 6400 RPM on 6.2's with stock square port heads, long tubes and a good tune up. If your dynoing with an auto the results can be lack luster. Best way to see how your gains are going imo is by trap speed and how much mph your picking up after the 1/8th. Any car that picks up 30+ mph after the 1/8th is getting serious. Dyno numbers are unreliable. Dont believe me? Try the same car, same engine and run it on three different dynos. Most of us guys see the dyno as a tuning tool. If you run a baseline you can measure gains. Same goes for the track, run a stock baseline set of passes and do it again after mods to see how your doing and where you need work.
