Almost a Gotcha on Build
Almost a Gotcha on Build Almost got roasted. Have built numerous various engines, and now assembling my first "LS", a Gen IV LS3. Was measuring main bearing bore ID, and kept feeling the parting surfaces of the bore sticking out more than it really should have. Looked into it more here, and found the bearing lock tangs are supposed to be opposite of each other, rather than on the same side as with historical engines. Also found the cap numbering to be not inline for all, which is supposedly correct. Now all seems decently better.
Wondering if there are any other assembly gremlins I should know about. Tempted to buy an SA book on LS assembly or otherwise to help relieve any questions of differences. Is there anything else that should be pointed out specific to assembly such as the issue mentioned? I'll probably know the rest, but then again, that type of attitude is what I was nearly just toasted on to begin with, all the way into the core of the engine. Ugh!
This was worth it to write even if one additional person learns from it. Thanks for the site!
Wondering if there are any other assembly gremlins I should know about. Tempted to buy an SA book on LS assembly or otherwise to help relieve any questions of differences. Is there anything else that should be pointed out specific to assembly such as the issue mentioned? I'll probably know the rest, but then again, that type of attitude is what I was nearly just toasted on to begin with, all the way into the core of the engine. Ugh!
This was worth it to write even if one additional person learns from it. Thanks for the site!
Last edited by FormulaBoat; May 23, 2019 at 03:02 PM.
I usually go by the “ears” of the caps, they all face to the rear except for #5.
Someone on here recently had a problem with the wrong bolts in the cam retainer plate. The longer bolts will hit the crankshaft counterweigts and lock the engine up.
Feeler gauges should be used to center the oil pump on the crank snout gear and if using a double roller, make sure the oil pump spacers are not upside down. It can block off half the oil passage from the pump to the block if its upside down.
Everything else is pretty straightforward though. The more afermarket parts go in though, the more you have to check and sometimes fix.
Someone on here recently had a problem with the wrong bolts in the cam retainer plate. The longer bolts will hit the crankshaft counterweigts and lock the engine up.
Feeler gauges should be used to center the oil pump on the crank snout gear and if using a double roller, make sure the oil pump spacers are not upside down. It can block off half the oil passage from the pump to the block if its upside down.
Everything else is pretty straightforward though. The more afermarket parts go in though, the more you have to check and sometimes fix.
Noted, thanks. All stock build on this one, but. Good mention on the oil pump spacers, thanks. That's exactly the stuff I'm referring to, even though I am using a stock chain and no spacers.
I was recently doing a Kubota diesel, and went through the shop manual anyways, and found a very small stand-alone O ring lays flat on the cylinder head deck when placing the head gasket in place. Would have never assumed that to be, never seen it done by anybody else.
I was recently doing a Kubota diesel, and went through the shop manual anyways, and found a very small stand-alone O ring lays flat on the cylinder head deck when placing the head gasket in place. Would have never assumed that to be, never seen it done by anybody else.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 11
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As far as i know the bearing tangs can go in the caps either direction. The tangs only locate the bearings for assembly The tangs are not there to prevent bearing rotation. The bearing crush is what prevents rotation
