Ls2 408 stroker
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4L80 is a different beast... I'm assuming you're getting a 5000 stall out of a 10.5" converter?
Move to a 9.5" or smaller with the 4L60 and it's very easy to push to 5000+ stalls... but they are super loose.
And lockup isn't what the issue is. I don't even care about that... I drive at 2800RPM at 70 now with lockup and overdrive due to gearing. But, what I care about goosing the throttle slightly and nothing happening.
Move to a 9.5" or smaller with the 4L60 and it's very easy to push to 5000+ stalls... but they are super loose.
And lockup isn't what the issue is. I don't even care about that... I drive at 2800RPM at 70 now with lockup and overdrive due to gearing. But, what I care about goosing the throttle slightly and nothing happening.
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Another update:
I received a phone call call from my engine builder today in regards to the stall converter.
He spoke to the stall converter maker about the new camshaft etc.
What needs to happen is the sprag needs to be adjusted which means my new stall speed will be between 3600-3800rpm.
I was also told if I didn't adjust the current stall converter it would be too tight off idle and that the new camshaft won't drive as nicely.
However, I was assured that the low end manners will be the same as in you will still have acceleration off idle etc, only when you floor it or get a bit enthusiastic, the revs will shoot a bit higher.
Thoughts?
I'm hoping the vehicle back in two weeks.
I received a phone call call from my engine builder today in regards to the stall converter.
He spoke to the stall converter maker about the new camshaft etc.
What needs to happen is the sprag needs to be adjusted which means my new stall speed will be between 3600-3800rpm.
I was also told if I didn't adjust the current stall converter it would be too tight off idle and that the new camshaft won't drive as nicely.
However, I was assured that the low end manners will be the same as in you will still have acceleration off idle etc, only when you floor it or get a bit enthusiastic, the revs will shoot a bit higher.
Thoughts?
I'm hoping the vehicle back in two weeks.
You came this far, mite aswell get it restalled n see it thru all the way. This way you can enjoy your new build and not wonder about shoodas, woodas, coodas. Prolly only a drop in the bucket at this point. And now is the time without motor back in yet
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Because then he would've had to take it out again if he was to test it first so extra labour for nothing.
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From: Mississippi
Been overlooking this thread.... are you building a pump gas motor or a E85 gas motor ?
If pump gas Im willing to bet you will make 615hp/570tq at the crank.
The LS3 FAST intake is only worth 5-10 horses over the factory GM LS3 intake.
If pump gas Im willing to bet you will make 615hp/570tq at the crank.
The LS3 FAST intake is only worth 5-10 horses over the factory GM LS3 intake.
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Engine already had more than 615hp at the crank with the previous camshaft.
I'm still waiting for my engine to be finished.
Hopefully next week I will have some results.
I know the fast intake isn't worth that much more compared to the ls3 intake but with a more wild combination I would assume the gains would be more more so in the top end.
We will see.
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I thought to give everyone an update.
The water pump, oil cooler etc, is all back together and the engine will finally be fired up at the end of this week.
I will finally have results to post in this thread next weekend.
Hopefully all is good.
The water pump, oil cooler etc, is all back together and the engine will finally be fired up at the end of this week.
I will finally have results to post in this thread next weekend.
Hopefully all is good.
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I finally have an update.
Engine was finally started today.
Just the oil and power steering cooler needs to be installed and a fully dyno tune.
I also opted to upgrade the rocker covers with some polished holley covers with the coil arrangement being an improved version of the stock setup without the brackets.
Engine will be completed some time next week.
Here is the link:
Engine was finally started today.
Just the oil and power steering cooler needs to be installed and a fully dyno tune.
I also opted to upgrade the rocker covers with some polished holley covers with the coil arrangement being an improved version of the stock setup without the brackets.
Engine will be completed some time next week.
Here is the link:
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Hey man,
There is one update.
Last minute I decided to upgraded the valve covers to some polished alumium standard height covers from Holley.
Also, I need to get some custom leads made because the pro street roller rockers I have installed required a spacer and therefore changed the length of the leads required.
The stock length are too short now.
Leads will be ordered tomorrow and will be with my builder on Monday or Tuesday.
Engine will be completed for sure next week.
I will also post an idle and rev video in this thread once I get the vehicle back too.
There is one update.
Last minute I decided to upgraded the valve covers to some polished alumium standard height covers from Holley.
Also, I need to get some custom leads made because the pro street roller rockers I have installed required a spacer and therefore changed the length of the leads required.
The stock length are too short now.
Leads will be ordered tomorrow and will be with my builder on Monday or Tuesday.
Engine will be completed for sure next week.
I will also post an idle and rev video in this thread once I get the vehicle back too.
Hey man,
There is one update.
Last minute I decided to upgraded the valve covers to some polished alumium standard height covers from Holley.
Also, I need to get some custom leads made because the pro street roller rockers I have installed required a spacer and therefore changed the length of the leads required.
The stock length are too short now.
Leads will be ordered tomorrow and will be with my builder on Monday or Tuesday.
Engine will be completed for sure next week.
I will also post an idle and rev video in this thread once I get tohe vehicle back too.
There is one update.
Last minute I decided to upgraded the valve covers to some polished alumium standard height covers from Holley.
Also, I need to get some custom leads made because the pro street roller rockers I have installed required a spacer and therefore changed the length of the leads required.
The stock length are too short now.
Leads will be ordered tomorrow and will be with my builder on Monday or Tuesday.
Engine will be completed for sure next week.
I will also post an idle and rev video in this thread once I get tohe vehicle back too.
Good luck
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I thought to give everyone an update on what is happening so far.
Let's begin by saying I am a little pissed off.
After all those upgrades mentioned in this thread the engine is not making any more power than what it was making before at 505 rwhp.
The reason is because of that FAST 102mm intake with the long runners.
The data log is showing an air restriction but I don't know any more details.
All I know it is not flowing enough air and surprisingly this camshaft wants to spin to 7500rpm most likely due to the short travel Isky lifters. (at a guess)
However the tuner is not sure if there is a cracked or leaking runner so he is going to check it tomorrow and let me know.
If the runner or runners are cracked or if there are any leaks, then it will make it a bit hard to decide whether to re order the long runners or go with a set of the high hp runners.
If the runners are fine and there are no leaks anywhere, this means I will have no choice but to get those high hp runners.
What do you guys think?
( I know I was told many times by various members about the runners in the manifold....)
I
Let's begin by saying I am a little pissed off.
After all those upgrades mentioned in this thread the engine is not making any more power than what it was making before at 505 rwhp.
The reason is because of that FAST 102mm intake with the long runners.
The data log is showing an air restriction but I don't know any more details.
All I know it is not flowing enough air and surprisingly this camshaft wants to spin to 7500rpm most likely due to the short travel Isky lifters. (at a guess)
However the tuner is not sure if there is a cracked or leaking runner so he is going to check it tomorrow and let me know.
If the runner or runners are cracked or if there are any leaks, then it will make it a bit hard to decide whether to re order the long runners or go with a set of the high hp runners.
If the runners are fine and there are no leaks anywhere, this means I will have no choice but to get those high hp runners.
What do you guys think?
( I know I was told many times by various members about the runners in the manifold....)
I
Imho, drive it before you condemn those new dyno numbers. There are so many variables on comparing dyno numbers. The Ol'butt dyno trumps all. Alot has changed with your set up. It may very well be the funnest thing you ve ever owned. Where the power comes in, how its delivered, and how the car responds may have all changed dramatically without the hp ratings you were hopeful for. I ve read threads where just a converter and or cam change in some cases changed the entire driving experiance! Good luck n report back your findings
Data log showing an air restriction - meaning your map is showing you are pulling a vacuum at wot?
If yes, are you running a maf? If yes, is it smaller than 100mm? If yes, there is a restriction. If no, is it card style? If yes, that is a huge restriction. Try SD.
If you are already SD and still pulling a vacuum, try pulling air filter(s) off. Also, verify the throttle is actually opening all the way. I have seen interference before prevent it from actually reaching wot.
As to intake, on a 402, I think you could run shorter runners and still have plenty of midrange grunt. You might find with your cam the medium runners are a better overall match.
If you are pulling a vacuum with no filters and you are SD, assuming you have a 102mm throttle, then you may need more plenum volume. If that is not an option, then port the neck to your intake and install a bigger throttle to compensate. Or decide you like how the butt dyno reacts and just send it.
Good luck. It sounds to me like you just need to de-bottleneck the airflow.
If yes, are you running a maf? If yes, is it smaller than 100mm? If yes, there is a restriction. If no, is it card style? If yes, that is a huge restriction. Try SD.
If you are already SD and still pulling a vacuum, try pulling air filter(s) off. Also, verify the throttle is actually opening all the way. I have seen interference before prevent it from actually reaching wot.
As to intake, on a 402, I think you could run shorter runners and still have plenty of midrange grunt. You might find with your cam the medium runners are a better overall match.
If you are pulling a vacuum with no filters and you are SD, assuming you have a 102mm throttle, then you may need more plenum volume. If that is not an option, then port the neck to your intake and install a bigger throttle to compensate. Or decide you like how the butt dyno reacts and just send it.
Good luck. It sounds to me like you just need to de-bottleneck the airflow.
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Data log showing an air restriction - meaning your map is showing you are pulling a vacuum at wot?
If yes, are you running a maf? If yes, is it smaller than 100mm? If yes, there is a restriction. If no, is it card style? If yes, that is a huge restriction. Try SD.
If you are already SD and still pulling a vacuum, try pulling air filter(s) off. Also, verify the throttle is actually opening all the way. I have seen interference before prevent it from actually reaching wot.
As to intake, on a 402, I think you could run shorter runners and still have plenty of midrange grunt. You might find with your cam the medium runners are a better overall match.
If you are pulling a vacuum with no filters and you are SD, assuming you have a 102mm throttle, then you may need more plenum volume. If that is not an option, then port the neck to your intake and install a bigger throttle to compensate. Or decide you like how the butt dyno reacts and just send it.
Good luck. It sounds to me like you just need to de-bottleneck the airflow.
If yes, are you running a maf? If yes, is it smaller than 100mm? If yes, there is a restriction. If no, is it card style? If yes, that is a huge restriction. Try SD.
If you are already SD and still pulling a vacuum, try pulling air filter(s) off. Also, verify the throttle is actually opening all the way. I have seen interference before prevent it from actually reaching wot.
As to intake, on a 402, I think you could run shorter runners and still have plenty of midrange grunt. You might find with your cam the medium runners are a better overall match.
If you are pulling a vacuum with no filters and you are SD, assuming you have a 102mm throttle, then you may need more plenum volume. If that is not an option, then port the neck to your intake and install a bigger throttle to compensate. Or decide you like how the butt dyno reacts and just send it.
Good luck. It sounds to me like you just need to de-bottleneck the airflow.
I am not running a maf.
I'm completely maffless and have been for years.
So this certainly not the restriction.
Throttle body is fine from what I hear.
It's already a 102mm DBW from Nick Williams
I'm still thinking it's the runners but we will see. after the shell comes off and runners are inspected etc.
Hopefully you are right with the mid range grunt.
