Vvt delete is a new timing cover necessary?
Do I need a new cover in this instance or can I simply use the correct cam sprocket on my cam and rock on?
same goes for my chain guide.
Do I need a new cover in this instance or can I simply use the correct cam sprocket on my cam and rock on?
same goes for my chain guide.
im not using any sensors associated with the camshaft sprocket. So it sounds like I should be good
speeduino ua4c. So it’ll be batch fire, semi wasted spark
Last edited by krochus; Dec 2, 2019 at 08:33 AM.
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And chain guide... which are you talking about, I assume you mean the chain damper. If that's what you mean they're all the same that I'm aware of.
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Talked with Texas Speed, "non VVT cover is required due to spacing of the cam sensor. A VVT cover with actuator removed will put the cam sensor too far away to read correctly. VVT cam sensor will bolt into the non VVT cover, 2 extra wires for actuator will be - extra"
I havent bolted this up yet, just ordered parts yesterday. Correct me if needed.
Talked with Texas Speed, "non VVT cover is required due to spacing of the cam sensor. A VVT cover with actuator removed will put the cam sensor too far away to read correctly. VVT cam sensor will bolt into the non VVT cover, 2 extra wires for actuator will be - extra"
I havent bolted this up yet, just ordered parts yesterday. Correct me if needed.
if you need a cam sensor you need a VVT delete cover.
Does it start up right EXACTLY half the time; and the other EXACTLY half the time, it will crank forever and not start the first time you turn the key, but cranks right up IMMEDIATELY the 2nd time you hit the key?
First time you go to start it up, EXACTLY half the times you try, it cranks forever and a half, and only spits back into the exhaust, if anything; but then you turn the key again, and it starts RIGHT UP? And EXACTLY the other half of the time when you go to start it, it starts like normal?
First time you go to start it up, EXACTLY half the times you try, it cranks forever and a half, and only spits back into the exhaust, if anything; but then you turn the key again, and it starts RIGHT UP? And EXACTLY the other half of the time when you go to start it, it starts like normal?
It behaves like this because it knows from the crank sensor which cyls are at TDC, butt DOESN'T know which half-rotation the cam is on; so EXACTLY HALF the time, it tries to fire off #6 when #1 should be firing, etc.; each of those pairs of cyls that come to TDC at the same time, butt only one is firing, while the other is just closing the exh valve and opening the int. EXACTLY THE OTHER HALF of the time it guesses right the first time. Although I don't know the EXACT logic the ECM uses, apparently it's smart enough that if it knows that it isn't sure about the cam signal, and it doesn't start the first time you hit the key, it guesses that it guessed wrong, and changes its guess to the other cyl of the pairs at TDC at the same time; and lights right off.
Kinda the equivalent of dropping in the dist 180° out in the old SBC, except EXACTLY half the time.
When you get your tune, let em know that it needs a crank relearn first.











