NA Obsession
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From: Florida
my hpr468 came with a 7100rpm limit. i havent looked into whether i can change it or not. im not sure where that number came from, the car was tuned prior to me owning it.
NA is awesome but its really expensive per horsepower especially compared to the ubiquitous turbo 5.3 recipes around.
NA is awesome but its really expensive per horsepower especially compared to the ubiquitous turbo 5.3 recipes around.
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my hpr468 came with a 7100rpm limit. i havent looked into whether i can change it or not. im not sure where that number came from, the car was tuned prior to me owning it.
NA is awesome but its really expensive per horsepower especially compared to the ubiquitous turbo 5.3 recipes around.
NA is awesome but its really expensive per horsepower especially compared to the ubiquitous turbo 5.3 recipes around.
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From: Central Cal.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: VA
I am 100% NA and wish I would have put an STS kit on the vette lol Sometimes its just about the fun of what your trying to achieve. I had some cool goals that were met along the way and I am still working towards bottom 10s with a SBE ls3. Dollars I have spent, I could have easily accomplished a very nice boost build and maintained 28 mpg lol
I am 100% NA and wish I would have put an STS kit on the vette lol Sometimes its just about the fun of what your trying to achieve. I had some cool goals that were met along the way and I am still working towards bottom 10s with a SBE ls3. Dollars I have spent, I could have easily accomplished a very nice boost build and maintained 28 mpg lol
This again? lol Didn't you have this flashback already?
Scramble button... never lose! 
I can't imagine a $9k turbo kit, even more so needing $9k more to finish one! Don't you already have the turbos and majority of the parts in hand? What is the rest of the money going towards? My last two kits haven't cost more then $2000, heck I think my current one is sitting about $1250 total. That's part of the fun to me, building cheap stuff with 5.3L's that perform. Telling someone they got beat by a junkyard engine with a ching chong whirly boy burns them up too, especially when its a fancy car.
I feel its a little more rewarding. Everything has to be just right to extract the most HP. I've always leaned more towards the NA stuff. It definitely is much more expensive. I need about $9k to finish my turbo build. I'd likely be the same amount into the NA setup(that $9k + selling off what I have) as I would with the turbo setup and have half the HP. But being able to beat up on ZR1s or 1000whp mustangs with a NA setup is amazing.
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iron block would be silly if youre going na. that extra weight isnt worth it especially considering youre using a c6z.
na is fun, but once you get past the initial kinks of a turbo setup, its about as reliable as anything. i didnt touch my tt 5.3 for over a year and did nothing but beat the **** out of it 16-20# and it never saw anything but 93. That was an OLSD tune and it never needed adjustment once i got it dialed in.
i know its antithetical to this site, but if you want big crazy na power, find a short deck 565 and cut a hole in your hood.
na is fun, but once you get past the initial kinks of a turbo setup, its about as reliable as anything. i didnt touch my tt 5.3 for over a year and did nothing but beat the **** out of it 16-20# and it never saw anything but 93. That was an OLSD tune and it never needed adjustment once i got it dialed in.
i know its antithetical to this site, but if you want big crazy na power, find a short deck 565 and cut a hole in your hood.
If you want to play in the skreets of Texas there’s no sense in building a rowdy NA motor. You’ll always have to be justifying why you’re “slow.”
I’d say throw a 2650 blower on a 3.622 stroke engine with the biggest bore you can afford.
Of your options listed the 468 is your best bet, or at least a 440. You won’t get it to spin 8500 rpm with any of the parts you mentioned here, but it’ll be faster and more durable.
GNX7 has an ex-Bonneville All-pro headed ls7 for sale that would meet or exceed your goals NA and is way way way way cheaper than starting fresh. I suggest talking to him.
I’d say throw a 2650 blower on a 3.622 stroke engine with the biggest bore you can afford.
Of your options listed the 468 is your best bet, or at least a 440. You won’t get it to spin 8500 rpm with any of the parts you mentioned here, but it’ll be faster and more durable.
GNX7 has an ex-Bonneville All-pro headed ls7 for sale that would meet or exceed your goals NA and is way way way way cheaper than starting fresh. I suggest talking to him.
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Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Dart aluminium block ,4.100 ccw crank, lightest rods you can buy, 4.185 coated Je pistons, piston squirters, titanium intake valves, heads subjective, 14:1 comp oringed .850 lift cam, jesel lifters, super light flywheel with tiny tilton triple button clutch, , carbon panel,doors,bonnet and boot lid , carbon ground effects fully enclosed underbody, front and rear carbon diffuser, front splitter....
weight 2500lbs N/A FTW
weight 2500lbs N/A FTW
Thread Starter
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This again? lol Didn't you have this flashback already?
Scramble button... never lose!
I can't imagine a $9k turbo kit, even more so needing $9k more to finish one! Don't you already have the turbos and majority of the parts in hand? What is the rest of the money going towards? My last two kits haven't cost more then $2000, heck I think my current one is sitting about $1250 total. That's part of the fun to me, building cheap stuff with 5.3L's that perform. Telling someone they got beat by a junkyard engine with a ching chong whirly boy burns them up too, especially when its a fancy car.
Scramble button... never lose!
I can't imagine a $9k turbo kit, even more so needing $9k more to finish one! Don't you already have the turbos and majority of the parts in hand? What is the rest of the money going towards? My last two kits haven't cost more then $2000, heck I think my current one is sitting about $1250 total. That's part of the fun to me, building cheap stuff with 5.3L's that perform. Telling someone they got beat by a junkyard engine with a ching chong whirly boy burns them up too, especially when its a fancy car.
The problem is $9k would about cover the block and heads NA, all to make less power. The NA argument of "instant power" even goes away with roll racing.....this cool thing called brake boosting exists.
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Interesting arguements in here...Luckily for me, it was simple. Spend lots of money and still be slow, look good doing it, and than spend lots more to be comfortable cruising around to where ever for ever!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/market/1915086
Just buy this man. Those Brodix heads are nice but need to be more like 305cc. Either that or get Brodix porter castings and send them off, but no reason to start with the 273 port. I doubt the 273 port would be worth anything over your old ported OEM castings.
Going from 650whp to 725whp NA is like...a little extra push in the *** (if you even get to 725 with these parts). It isn't going to transform the car.
Not saying don't do it...but I guess I'm not seeing that you're pushing far enough to make sense. I'm building a stupid NA motor right now not too different from your spec, but I didn't already have a 650whp setup in the car already...I'm at 450ish whp right now.
Also at 8000rpm ATI told me to run a full size damper with a race elastomer instead of an underdrive pulley. If you need to slow down the accessories gear them down at the accessory pulley and not the crank.
Just buy this man. Those Brodix heads are nice but need to be more like 305cc. Either that or get Brodix porter castings and send them off, but no reason to start with the 273 port. I doubt the 273 port would be worth anything over your old ported OEM castings.
Going from 650whp to 725whp NA is like...a little extra push in the *** (if you even get to 725 with these parts). It isn't going to transform the car.
Not saying don't do it...but I guess I'm not seeing that you're pushing far enough to make sense. I'm building a stupid NA motor right now not too different from your spec, but I didn't already have a 650whp setup in the car already...I'm at 450ish whp right now.
Also at 8000rpm ATI told me to run a full size damper with a race elastomer instead of an underdrive pulley. If you need to slow down the accessories gear them down at the accessory pulley and not the crank.
This guys got it! I won't even begin to argue maintenance of a huge cam vs boost. Big NA stuff has its place, but nobody has made a single cost/maintenance/drivability argument that holds any weight. It's all highly subjective and "feel" arguments.
Cuz NA “feels” slow lol trappin 140 anything isn't that fast these days and even an epic NA build that manages to barely get to 150 is still down 10-15mph before the boosted 5.3 guy even turns up his boost controller.