I can't shake the want to build a nasty NA setup for my c6z. To further complicate things, I rode with a buddy last week, that has a nasty build himself, and it's been keeping me up at night.

My original setup was nothing special, mainly off-the-shelf parts and it put down 646whp and 536wtq. It was fun and a screamer, as I was spinning it to about 7500rpms. I ended up parting out that build to go the turbo route. That was short lived and I experienced an engine failure with the SBE 5.3 that was in it.

I am currently in the process of a pretty extensive rebuild, that's still a ways from completion. I feel that I may be losing interest in the big HP numbers and want to build something with less HP, that will be more fun to drive. Really leaning towards parting out what I have to start a NA build.

I'd be starting out with a chassis that should weigh in around 2700lbs in NA trim. Race weight would be around 2950lbs, as it sits. I plan to remove more weight from the car, eventually.

As far as the powerplant, I have a few concrete ideas:

Brodix BR7 273cc heads from BTR. Advertised 415cfm @ .700" lift
Custom solid roller camshaft
Cammotion solid roller lifts
T&D Pedestal Mount 1.8 rockers
Holley Hi Ram base for LS7 ports
Visner Billet Hi Ram lid
Accufab or Wilson 125mm throttle body
Custom 5" intake with velocity sticking out of the front bumper (race trim)
Powerbond 25% UD pulley (already have from turbo build)
Relocated alternator driven off a/c ribs on balancer
No p/s, no a/c
Rear mounted radiator with Davies Craig EWP150 pump
American Racing 2" headers, 3" x-pipe, magnaflow mufflers
Will be running e85 and meth injection (meth was worth a good amount of HP on a max effort setup running e85)
Lightweight twin disc clutch

Now, for the shortblock, I am not sure which route to go. My goal is to run over 13:1 compression. Engine will be wet sump.
SBE LS7:
This would need heads to be milled a ton, or angle milled

LS7 block with aftermarket pistons:
Minimal head milling to achieve desired compression

Short stroke, big bore:
Idk much about this, to be honest

468ci from HPR:
What would be the RPM limitations of the extra stroke? Nitrous would be out of the question. Longevity?

Most likely going to go with a 4.10 rear gear and the 2.97 1st gear ratio TR6060. 2.97 / 2.10 / 1.46 / 1.00

Overall goals:
7800-8000 RPM peak HP with a 8500 rpm rev limit
725whp or more
8.9X 1/4mi ET
150+ 1/4mi MPH
175+ 1/2mi MPH
200+ 1mi MPH

Here's a video I posted of my NA setup: https://ls1tech.com/forums/street-ra...l#post20202217

 

How close are you to finishing the boosted setup? What power was it going to make?

 

Not very close. Still need a lot of stuff. Was aiming for, around 1400whp. In my area, there are not many people in that power range to race. Tx2K is only once a year.

 

You are wanting to build one crazy NALS engine.
Be prepared to spend big $ to get to your power level.
big engine, big rpm, a solid roller and E85 will definitely be needed.
Heads you are wanting to use are great but getting to the power level you are wanting to I'm not so sure.
Darth has gone all out on his and he won't make that much.
There is a guy down here with a similar setup and same heads and being a 454 and he is making 660rwhp.
Others know more about this than me.
​​​Just my .02

 

That's a different world than your N/A setup lol. All depends on what you want. The nice thing about boost is you can set it for 500, 1000, 1400 with the turn of a **** as well as boost by gear. You make as much power as you want to. That would seem advantageous if you're concerned about making too much power.

 

I understand what I would be getting into.
I already run e85 full time, that's not an issue for me.
The stock LS7 shortblock has made 700whp and upper 600s multiple times. Roughly 12:1 compression.
I'm sure 700hp is extremely possible. The extra 25hp may need to be squeezed out.

I am definitely open to suggestions on parts that should be changed, etc...

 

I love what you are doing, I have the NA itch also, just have to daily mine. A few suggestions:

- If you are going w/ the Brodix BR7 heads, get them from Richard@WCCH. He has custom cnc ports for them and they work well. Also, have a look at the Frankenstein F710 heads. Killer head all the way around. The AllPro's from WCCH are excellent, as well. I would have several conversations and see what direction is best.

- Forget building a factory LS7 block. Way too many problems and not worth it to resleeve. Buy a Dart alum and done. You can build off it whatever you want w/ no restrictions. The HPR 468 is nice, though. Forget the short stroke, you are beyond that for what you want. If it were my build, I would do something like a 4.00 stroke w/ a 4.155-4.185 bore and focus on the valvetrain.

JMO, hope this helps. Good luck w/ the build!

 

It doesn't work like that with the drama of the internet. If you car makes 1400whp and you turn it down to run someone that makes 800whp and you lose, the caption will read 1400whp TT moon boost, gutted, racecar Z06 loses to 800whp 5000lb daily driven Mustang with a/c.

 

So the change in direction does NOT have to do with how much power you want to make, but spending $$,$$$ to say you had 700whp instead of 1400whp on the internet?

 

NA is YAY

 

I was looking at the F710 heads, as well. Definitely an option.

 

No, its for the fun factor. I had a blast with my old NA setup. The turbo setup was fun but it was also much more of a headache.

 

His right.
Don't touch the Ls7 block.
Use either the Dart SHP iron or the pro version.
If you want the dart aluminium instead, be prepared to pay 2-3 times as much.
I am going the SHP iron block from dart most likely for my next build with a 4.155 inch bore.
I have a feeling Tony's heads might be more efficient as they flow 410CFM at .700 lift through a 265CC runner.
Those brodix are a 273CC. They are close.
Valvetrain will need to be light as possible, use hollow stem or maybe even titanium intake valves if you have the stomach to spend that much.

 

If its installed and tuned correctly most turbo setups should have LESS maintenance than a high HP NA setup. It sounds like you've already made your mind up though so good luck with your build.

 

iron block would be silly if youre going na. that extra weight isnt worth it especially considering youre using a c6z.
na is fun, but once you get past the initial kinks of a turbo setup, its about as reliable as anything. i didnt touch my tt 5.3 for over a year and did nothing but beat the **** out of it 16-20# and it never saw anything but 93. That was an OLSD tune and it never needed adjustment once i got it dialed in.

i know its antithetical to this site, but if you want big crazy na power, find a short deck 565 and cut a hole in your hood.

 

Iron block is good as it flexes less than aluminium and will last longer under abusive conditions.
But you do have the weight penalty of about 100lb over the front axle and the fact that it doesn't disperse heat as quickly as aluminium.
Dart SHP is far cheaper and stronger and has a better oiling system compared to the LS7.
He will need to weigh up the pros and cons.
If I was rich I would definitely go for the aluminium dart block no question.

 

LS7 is a good NA block

 

You know my feelings on this
HPR 468 rev limit is more predicated on valve train stability....IIRC Erik said he didn't have a problem with spinning this setup to 8K+ if the supporting hardware was used.
Maybe Racer8088 will chime in on this.......

 

It is for NA yes.
But I think the op will need more cubes than what an LS7 can provide.

 

Now that I think of it, someone just made 800whp with a LS7, only pistons were changed for more compression. Frankenstein heads.

I haven't made up my mind. Just bouncing ideas around. I like the discussion and this will be around, should I decide not to go through with this at this point in time. For this to move forward, I'd have to be able to sell my long block for exactly what I have into it and I don't really see that happening. Plus, the wife may not be too happy.