bortous

Launch you bought back some memories.
With those LS3 heads, I made the biggest mistake by listening to someone with not much experience and going this route. (This guy ended up burning down his business because he couldn't sell it due to the bad reputation he had built for himself with his dishonesty, twisting of words and blaming his customers for the issues they were experiencing. Long story)
I originally wanted to stick with stock LS2 heads and have them CNC ported by higgins but I was convinced not to.
This was back in 2009-2010. Back then I hardly knew anything at all. Just some very basic things.
I tried so hard to like my combo but deep down I was never satisfied with the way the engine felt.
The aussie guys down here don't really know much outside of what they are used to.
Everyone says just to use LS3 heads as they make power. Even to this very day if you ask for an opinion this is the answer you get.
If I was to mention to someone to use some high end aftermarket cathedrals they would just look down upon them and say it's old tech.
Mickey's setup is nuts. It's probably one of the best and most powerful NA setups going around on the streets.
I don't know of any NA setups with that much power that drive well.
Even Tony says to me, his LS7 package is more targeted to light cars that are looking for the ultimate high rpm HP kick.
I have to admit my experience with the LS3 setup made me kind of weary using the LS7 head initially but after having a long and detailed conversation with Tony about this, the LS7 head is not the one for this combo. Sure it will be better than my LS3 in the low and midrange rpm but it will still not ever be razor sharp or responsive or have as much pull as his 245 head till you get to 6500rpm+ where the LS7 head really comes alive.
If I had a corvette I would have gone for the LS7 package without a second thought.
If I get 700hp with my combo I will be more than thrilled.
Tony has told me that once I experience what it feels like to drive I will be in awe at the explosive nature of the engine at all RPM's.
I'm just waiting on the camshaft to arrive to Tony so he can bless it before he sends it out to me.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

To be fair, you never had a chance to tune the solids to see what they do because oil pressure.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Is it night and day? No not really. Does the engine rev better, feel more stable, and carry power better past peak? Yes. For sure. Valve follows it's intended path much more precisely. You get very predictable feel from the motor, and it does like rpm in the sense that the motor does not give up or quit making power so suddenly like you get with hydraulics - especially stock lifters.

You can cam for torque and get the equivalent of a 224/224 cam if you want. So the generalities of high rpm vs low rpm are just that - generalities.

You don't need high rpm just because solids. But the higher you intend to rev, the more solids will benefit you.

rkupon1

iTrader: (3)

So lemme get this straight, bcuz i dont know it all of course...your saying a properly specd aftermarket cathedral head will out perform a properly specd aftermarket ls7 head til 6500 rpms?

p.s. what became of the oil pressure issue from previous build? Any closure revieled after tear down?

bortous

That's true.
Just a basic tune to get it to run but the sound was the best note I have heard from my exhaust to date.

Launch

That it will be for sure. It'll be a blast to drive. You should get some 15" diameter back wheels and drag radials to see what it feels like with some good traction. It'll be addictive. If you did do that I'd get your mechanic to swap the rear wheel studs to ARP's because the factory 12mm studs are a bit shady with the power and torque you will have, especially as the cars have gotten older and they've been torqued on/off hundreds of times. Other than the rear wheel studs, you might snap the occasional rear CV joint.. if that happens just swap another one in ($40 at wreckers) and go again. The factory CV joints last a long time behind a bunch of HP before they eventually twist and then snap the shafts. If you go and put huge billet CV's in there, then other things will want to break instead which is worse.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

are any of these really an issue though? Or is it only an issue in turbo builds 900 hp plus etc

bortous

That's exactly right what you have said.
The LS7 really comes alive from 6000rpm+ and beats the cathedral above this RPM.
The oil pressure issue was not fixed and I'm not going to fix it.
The engine is being stripped down so we can reuse the crank and rods.
The top end is coming off soon as that has been sold.
Once I have everything off the engine that I need for my new build such as throttle body, coil packs, oil pan etc. I am going to sell the ls2 block as is with the pistons also for someone else to fix it and get it running again with a new crank and rods.

bortous

Not an issue.
It's more like added assurance that this block is going to be rigid and not move.
With better sealing, beefier caps etc it just gives you that added security.
Plus with higher compression also, it does put more pressure in the cylinder and having stronger liners inside is a plus.
You really need these upgrades once you exceed 1000hp.
For NA not really needed.
If I was going to add boost to this engine I would need to upgrade the crank and rods to something stronger but it's doubtful I will ever go that route.
For me it's a more satisfying feeling having something NA.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

For me it's a more satisfying feeling having something NA.....

bortous

First of all 15 inch wheels won't fit with my stock 4 piston rear brakes so that's out. Haha.
If I do anything to the rear end it will be CV joints and axles in one hit.
The VZ HSV's actually came with beefier axles from the factory.
The best I have for traction is a pair of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R tyres. These are in between a semi slick and max performance summer tyre.
It's a great dual purpose tyre and grips good in the dry once warm.
It's even pretty decent in wet weather also.

Launch

Ah yes I forgot you must have the big brakes being an R8. Also the vz upgraded axles you won't break those as easy.
My old R8 also had the premium brakes package (of that time) and I fitted standard brakes to it so I could run 15" diameter wheels when I wanted.
If you were ever at the Calder drags, I later sold my full set of weld wheels that I used to run on my R8 to a guy named Brett (BrettSS on the old ls1.com.au forums). He had a blue VT SS and then afterwards a black VY SV8 I think it was. His VY SV8 ran 11.4's in the 1/4 mile, N/A, still unopened LS1, just external bolt-ons. He had done a max effort N/A unopened setup.

bortous

Those upgrades axles were only on all VZ HSV's which is a nice upgrade.
With my rear brakes the smallest wheel that would fit would be 18inch.
My front brakes are the AP 6 pistons not the HSV 6 pistons.
The AP version requires 19 inch wheels minimum to fit whereas the HSV version needs 18 inch wheels.
I don't recall a Brad on those forums. I never really used that forum much. I didn't like it.
Those are the some good times too.
I have never been to the drag strip before either.
I know I will probably get a lot of shocked reactions but there I said it! Haha
I miss the glory days back in the VZ era.
That was when everything was at it's peak.

Launch

This was back in the early, to mid 2000's. I didn't post much on that forum either but I was on there. I just thought I'd mention it in case you knew him or his cars. It was Brett, not Brad, his username was BrettSS on there. He also first helped me with some basics on how to tune my car with ls1edit. His first VT SS was a N/A 383ci heads/cam by G&D and I think from memory it ran a 10.9 1/4 mile at it's best.
Back then when the LS was new(ish) to the scene and also before we had hoon laws I miss those days also. We had a heap of fun on the street back then. Now on the street we need to be very cautious to not get our cars taken. I won't put my Camaro around any cops while I have the hoosier back tyres on it. I'm driving it for now around a fairly unpopulated area while I continue to mod it and make it quicker. I will eventually put some street tyres back on it again and drive it again more everywhere, maybe.

Your car must stop unreal with those AP 6 pistons. Because i've found that even the standard vt-vz brakes with metallic pads fitted pull up extremely well from even high speeds.. significantly better than a lot of other cars of that era.

bortous

Another memory has come back.
I first got my car tuned by G&D back in early 2008 when my engine was stock but with 1 3/4 headers and dual 2.5 inch exhaust and OTR.
I was dealing with a guy called Glenn Everrett.
These guys did a fantastic job back then. Engine made 283rwkw through an automatic.
I thought that figure was over inflated. Went to my current builder a year later and made 2rwkw less.
From then on was when things started going to ****. (This was when there was a middle man mechanic who was in charge of my next round of upgrades. It's the one I mentioned who burnt down his business because he couldn't sell it).
It all began with that Lingenfelter GT-11 camshaft change and since that time I have never been satisfied.
I'm SOOO glad I'm starting from scratch this time and re using nothing that contributed to me being dissatisfied.

In regards to the brakes they are pretty wild. Even from 200km you need to hang on for dear life. They still grab so hard at that speed.
Mine are the CP5555 version.
I have custom 365mm discs from Forza and also using a FR6 pad from forza too.
This pad is a track pad that also works great on the street.
It's a bit dead from dead cold but after a few normal stops it heats up quickly and starts to bite well.
It is a carbon fibre based pad that is also not too harsh on discs.
I measured the G forces a few times over the years. When I was running the Bendix SRT pad I registered 1.1-1.2G's of force when brakes were slammed which is pretty crazy for back then.

Well crafted piece.

It may not look it, but that caliper JUST fits inside a 19 inch wheel.


I also replaced my bilstein suspension with new struts and bilstein inserts last year just to make sure my suspension was right.
Lucky I did, the front shocks had become softer after 110,000km and noticed the vehicle was more planted when new shocks were fitted.
Bilstein and eibach springs are a great combination.

lazerlemonta

To say the LS7 head comes to life at 7000 is just blasphemy.......Your saying Tonys LS7 heads would not surpass his cathedrals until 7000??? Think about what your saying here. You do realize that your more cubic inches than a stock LS7 which has a HUGE broad power curve that came with LS7 heads and with a decent cam can make 580+ ******* up. In that big heavy car you may as well have asked for a truck cam, a fast LSXR truck intake and 87 octane tune. LS3 heads are far from lazy and especially on a 434..... Tony will get you sorted out, but your like wrangling a herd of pygmy goats with a chihuahua.

bortous

They BEGIN pulling away from around 6000-6500rpm but really come alive at 7000rpm+.
Don't forget this is when compared to the 245cc cathedral.
And his 245cc does have a more broad power curve off idle till around 6500rpm. This is a fact. Haven't you read the posts?
And my LS3 heads were lazy on my 408 but as explained it was probably because of the port job.
I didn't want them on my 434 and glad they have been sold.
They would certainly work better but not to the level I am wanting. I went over this with Tony in great detail.
Lets hope Tony chimes in here and clears this up for you.
​​
Don't get your panties in a twist either.

lazerlemonta

Icing on the mini cup cakes then lol https://ls1tech.com/forums/market/1933222 & http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=8542 PB&J

bortous

Seems to me you busted a nut before you posted that. Lol

lazerlemonta

LMAO I went off to soon! I totally get why your doing your combo. I just dont see Tonys 245 hanging on with LS7 heads to 7000. I have done the same thing last year with a very short runner intake extending my RPM rang to 8000+ and the car was only MPH faster than my bolt on set up lol You likely could use a smaller cam with the LS7 head and achieve a similar power curve...