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Not an expert on solids and lash by any means but my understanding is as follows:
Cam Motion Low Lash Solid Roller is set up cold @ .000 Hot @ .006-.008 depending on Iron
VS Aluminum Block. The Hydro equivalent is roughly - 6* less to account for lash
Traditional Solid Roller Hot Lash anywhere from .024-.028
Comp Street Roller Hot .012-.016 I would guess, but do not know for sure but wouldn't more lash mean
greater differential for hydro equivalent like ~ 8* or perhaps more for "Medium" Lash .012-.014???
Perhaps Steven @ Cam Motion or Darth, Chevelle could chime in to answer.
On another topic This will be the last time I chime in on Tony"s Cathedral Specs but even the
8000 RPM 346 only has a +8* Exhaust split which equals his Largest Ever in a NA Cathedral
application specced by him using his heads.
So ends your previous assertion of his speccing greater than a +10 exhaust split.
LOL!
Seriously looking forward to your Results & ENJOYMENT of your 434"
Haha.
You still have it in for me with that larger split I see.
I did see it in one of the threads on here a while ago.
In regards to the camshaft this particular lobe has a diverse range of adjustment.
The lobe description says it can be adjusted for 0.10-0.14 hot lash and that you can run tighter on iron blocks.
Comp cams want you to have cold lash above 0.03 hence the cam card says 0.14 for the valve adjustment for an aluminium block.
My builder is setting it up around 0.10 hot or so for quiet operation.
Tight lash cams take up sooner, but move the valve slower.
Looser solid rollers tend to slam the valve open faster. Probably works out similarly in the end valve area wise.
Faster opening/closing of the valve tends to improve idle quality.
My understanding is as solids get more aggressive, it's kinda like this:
...............................006..........050... ........200..(Duration at lift)
Low Lash Solids.....More.......same........less
Full Sausage.........less..........same........more
Guys, I got some updates.
I will post pics later on as I have quite a few to show.
Camshaft degreed in almost perfectly to 109.5 ICL. (110 ICL is stated on the cam card)
My builder also wants to install a 4 point steam kit too.
Heads are on the engine too and look great.
One other setback now are these damn Morel 5425 lifters.
Lightened solid roller lifters are not compatible with this Dart Block so I need to get another set.
Does anyone know of an axle oiled lifter that will meet these specs??
My builder also said, Tony's work is like magic.
He studied them before he fitted them and he was super impressed with the attention to detail and the artwork done on the ports.
He hasn't seen anything so meticulously done.
It's rare to hear him say he is impressed with something.
It's good news.
The ones I sent you I would think are fine. They don't have the lightening holes, and they held very good oil pressure on my old motor, which was pretty effed in general. Still held pressure.
The ones I sent you I would think are fine. They don't have the lightening holes, and they held very good oil pressure on my old motor, which was pretty effed in general. Still held pressure.
I thought about that too but my builder says they also won't be compatible either.
I asked.
I will have all the info tomorrow.
Have you tried to remove the link bar lifter from the window bortus? I'm curios if its even possible.
I have not seen my engine as in those photos.
They were from my builder.
Looks like the lifter hole at the front has to be slightly modified as per Dart's instructions.
I wonder if you can get axle oiled lifters in that body the Dart Block requires.
The ones I sent you I would think are fine. They don't have the lightening holes, and they held very good oil pressure on my old motor, which was pretty effed in general. Still held pressure.
We ended up using those lifters you sent me.
They are the right body needed for the block.
The front oiling holes will also be slightly modified as per Darts instructions.
