It's obvious this thread is directed at me.
I haven't recommended anything for a while and then I see this this pop up.
FYI a couple have actually got those specs grinded and were thrilled with the result.
I'm certainly no expert but I have learnt some things about valve events and where they need to be for SOME combinations.
Anything too crazy or with boost etc, I am not confident enough to go there.
Whether I'm right or wrong, it's a learning curve.
Just like that time for a truck camshaft, I was way off.
I admit it. It is what it is.

Secondly I recommend you stop being a troll.
Another member on here was going to PM you to give you a piece of his mind for the remarks you made in a previous thread.

My thought still stands with any stock camshaft.
If you think they are the bees knees of performance I recommend you speak to some professionals.
If you are still not convinced about the benefits of aftermarket camshafts, a psychiatrist should be next on your list of things to do.

 

Stock cam is garbage. Combination is key. Cam only combos rarely take advantage of what a combo can offer. Cylinder heads are way more crucial than a cam. Cam tells the engine when to make power, heads are what make that power. Pair everything correctly and you have a strong engine. Put that in a car with a well thought out suspension and you have a strong car.

People spend too much time on cams. Yes, the tech is fun and good to know but arguing about 5 degrees here or there is lame and for most of us, doesnt matter. Unless you race a 250+ thousand dollar pro mod that you work on under blankets under a big tarp with a full crew that will stab anyone who gets too close.

If running a stock cam is your second kind of cool then by all means go for it. Too far away to race eachother anyways so who cares.

 

Sounds like we're on the same page....

 

pm away....idgf

Who's trolling?? Telling you the truth ain't trolling.....unless you don't like the truth.

How are the stock cams garbage bspeck?? They idle smooth, make great power, easy on the valvetrain and get great mpg's. On top of that if you know what you're doing they are plenty capable of easily running 11s, 10s, 9s and even 8s now......all with only bolt ons. Like you i think far to many spends way to much time on cams.....it seems for most the time would be better spent elsewhere.

If guys would spend said time on making the car accelerate instead of fighting a cam they would actually know how good the stock cam is.

Most of what i see with performance cams is trade offs. With alot of these cams the intake manifolds don't work to well with either. How many has been seen with more hp up top but less torque?? Torque is the power a engine makes.

 

You are lost.
You really need one of my special cam specs.

 

Lmao, Bort, you crack me up...i get where your coming from, and its nice that you genuinely mean well and are aiming to help. Unfortunately, this is a put up or shut up hobby. You will lose all street cred the second people notice you arent sewing your own seeds so to speak. Think about SmokeyB for a second. I damn near hated him initially. Once you wade thru his strong emotional beliefs spat in pure ebonix..., dude is really freakn smart n believes in what he saying. But even without being discredited by most, he gets 0 respect bcuz he s "done nothing"! Hasnt made a single pass in anything he designed/built/executed. Thats a huge deal in this community. Darth, A-ron, Chad, Hio, and several others(Tuskeys list) here have BEEN THERE, DONE THAT! They took the respect, the credibility came afterwards. Having said that. I enjoy reading most of these threads and rather you contribute n participate vs. sittn back keepn all that knowkedge to yoself! Doug is a smart af old dog, done more with less years ago. But getting the info out of him is sometimes a fight. You gotta wait to be corrected or start some ****. Its sad when the best info comes outta threads like this. Some people just burnt out talkn bout the basics and common sense. But some of us gotta start learning somewhere. So if you gunna get all Hio on the forums, better have been there done that homie! No grudges, me luvs all of yous....carry on

p.s. im drunk, everything i said could have just been all bs! But i did do muh first burnout in da nova today, lol. Ttyl

 

I think there is a hang-up about stock vs. aftermarket cams.
Hio has done exceptionally well using a stock cam. It has the right specs for the job he wants done from his engine.
If he were to call Cam Motion and tell them exactly what he wants and under which conditions and circumstances, they could easily spec him a copy of the late LS6 cam.
OR NOT. What he has works for him. If it doesn't work for you, get something else. Thank God for choices...

 

The stock cam is ok and you can put me in the cylinder heads matter camp.

 

Maybe you could do a little of both. Stock cams actually have very big entry ramps from .006 to .050. I realize there is not a lot of airflow going on from .006 to .050 but it does start the ball rolling. The stock C6 Z06 cam is 210/230 on a 120 lobe separation and like around 590 lift. The overall .006 duration is actually pretty big at 277 / 295 so 65-67 degrees of ramp (most streetable aftermarket cams have 52-55 degrees). The 120 lobe separation allows the cams power ban to expand. The stock 427 LS7 has a peak hp around 6400 rpm even though it has only a 210 duration at .050. However, with the 120 lobe separation and a 277 overall duration the intake closing point is around 80 degrees. So the stock cam though it seems small on a .050 actually does pretty good with the use of lobe separation and overall duration. I think what can be done here is stick (in this particular case) to the overall duration of 277 / 295 but use a more aggressive ramp to get some .050 duration (say 220/240 like Katech Torquer 116) along with some more aggressive area under the curve ramp) with little sacrifice of the drivability as compared to stock - if that is your goal. The wide lobe separation keeps the parking lot/traffic driving nice. Valve springs and other things would also need to be addressed. I think another issue is people put a really big cam in but don't change the compression thus making a soggy low end rpm. In my case I bumped the compression up a point (11 to 12) to make up for the cam.
I would agree also that the party begins in the heads. Better head less cam you need to do same thing. For this conversation - Low and mid lift flow is your friend. Size of port matters etc. Also you need to them match your cam whether stock or modified. No use telling people your heads flow 400 cfm at .900 lift when your cam is .550 lift and the heads have not so great flow up to .500 but they come alive after that. I am not spouting anything new here just mentioning it. Like people said above its a combination of parts. Furthermore, the rest of the car makes a difference too with gearing, converter, weight exhaust etc.
Anyway got sidetracked - I think it all boils down to what are you doing with the car as it relates to a cam, heads and the rest of the package.

 

There is more than 1 level of cam as well. A cam swap doesn't require a max effort valvespring crusher. Several vendors offer multiple cams with stock like idle and street manners that are easy to tune and pick up power everywhere. It is possible to have your cake and eat it too if youre conservative with your choice.

 

Damn, I was just about to pull my baby cam out, turn it into a trot line weight, and either go back to stock or go really big! I kind of like it though. It's part of a combo that makes me smile EVERY time I drive it. May not fit anyone else, but I didn't spec it for anyone else. Specced it for ME.

I may never track it. Seems every track around here wants more safety stuff than I'm willing to fool with. Doesn't mean I can't enjoy it without a time slip.

 

Drunk posting ftw!! Thanks for the kind words rk and g atsma.

If you go on street car races it seem tracks are a bit more lenient. I don't have any of the safety stuff that is required in either of my cars because they are just street cars in the truest form. I don't intend on making them nhra legal either.

Someday i would like to do a c4 vette into a drag car .....with a stick of course. They could be made to weigh in the 2400lb area pretty easily as a pretty hard core strip/street car. Would likely run faster than 9.5 with a junk stock cammed ls7.

It's not that i think cams are terrible bad. It's that the stock stuff is pretty damn good and developing the car seems to be of more benefit to most vs shoving a cam in and fighting tunes, valvesprings and lower dcr's......especially for street car stuff.

Maybe developing the car isn't as cool to some. But it sure works. I went from 12.2@118~ with the initial install of the ls6
to 10.7@130~ utilizing the same stock cam......and i would bet the car had 10.4 in there at last before i eff'd up.

We got lazerlemon ls3 c6 to go from a initial run of 12.6 on a not great day at the track to 10.5@132 with the same stock ls3 cam.

We already discussed sxc car and how well it does. So unless you cars are accelerating at least somewhere near those examples.......you're problem ain't the cam no matter how much you think it sucks.

There's been plenty of guys on ls1tech with strokers, full built motors that don't even get to that.....the cam ain't their problem either......neither are the heads.

In all honesty i think you could get a 346 with a ls6 cam to somewhere near 500whp. We made 451whp 423wtq with bolt ons on my ls6 on pump gas. Now add these super fuels and it would pick up 20whp or so over pump. You're looking at 470~ whp. Clean the heads up, put a thinner gasket on them and mill the another .050. That would put one right in the 490 range just with basic hotrodding.......stupid junk stock cam.

 

To be honest, I think the late LS6 cam is a weird one!
204/218, 117.5 LSA? W I I I D E split, HUGE LSA, which normally go against "common" cam logic.
BUT it works, at least for Hio. Who are we to argue??
And here am I with an 04 Tahoe with LM7, in which I may someday stick a BTR Torque cam (202/202, .511/.511, 111+1) because I RARELY get above 5k RPM.
Because that is what will gain 20# torque throughout the range, and WILL work for ME.
Main point here, we use what WORKS for US. You use what works for you.

 

Yeah, we go with our experience because that helps us make good choices. I'm still in favor of upgrading heads and I'm working on that, and then do something about the stock cam that was in my '01 Camaro. I've done upgrades to heads and the cam, and I'll continue to tweak my '01 because that makes the car fun for me.

 

And that's usually what it is- ONE more little thing or tweak to make it THAT much better than before. With me, besides the cam mentioned above, I wouldn't mind getting my heads done with a GOOD multiangle valve job and a bowl blend, plus maybe semi-polishing the ports to smooth the flow. But that would be it. The effect would be what I call "enhanced stock".

 

There's always that one more thing.....that most neglect. But when you add up those one more little things they tend to make a large difference.


G atsma hat torque cam actually looks decent from richard holdener tests. Puts power where a truck needs it. Idk about the tune in your Hoe but the tune in my 2500hd 6.0 was neutered especially in 1st gear. It had a pe delay of 60 secs or until 5200 rpm. So basically even if you were wot in 1st gear you weren't really wot. I turned that off and the truck picked up 3-4 tenths via draggy on that change alone. You might want to check your Hoe tune fo dat.

 

Thanks man! Yeah that's what I thought too. Don't know if/when I'll get around to it or the head mods, but it will likely be if/when a head gasket or valve job is needed. It has just over 180k miles on it and runs great. Hopefully it does not have the dreaded Castech 706's.
I'll look into the tune when I can. Gotta find someone who knows their $hit about tuning around here. Call out to anyone knowing good tuners in Central Kommifornia!

 

I’m swapping a bigger cam into my rx7 right now just to annoy you Hio lol but I’m also installing a Meziere EWP so does that cancel it out? Deleted the AC too so that takes drag off the crank and lightens the car.


This thread is for cam advice from forum members right? What would you change Bort? 242/250 114+3 .612/.613 lift. It’s not my first choice either but I bought it for $125 years ago and it is free to me now :p
old cam 226/242 on 117+3.5

Stroked ls2 4.005x4” with stock ls3 heads (shameeee!), rod mod ls3 intake, 11.1:1 compression, 1 7/8” headers. 2800 pounds, 3.90 gears.

 

That rx7 should be nasty if you get it all working right.

 

Thanks man. It already does just changing it up. It wasn't loud and annoying enough for my neighbors. Thought it was ironic this was the discussion and I was pulling my car apart to put a bigger cam in. My first cam was near stock, closer to stock than what almost anyone runs especially in a stroker.