So while I'm not new to LS motors, I still have a lot to learn.

I have a Gen 4 LMG 5.3 with 243/799 cast heads out of a 2011 PPV Tahoe. It is currently at the shop getting machine work done.

The parts that matter:
Wiseco Forged 3.903 Dish Pistons -11cc
Callies Compstar Forged H Beam Rods
TSP VVT Cam 216/220 .600 112 LSA
.625 rated Beehive Springs
7.400" Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

I am trying to figure out what the best option is for lifters, valve guides, and rocker arms. Right now I am leaning towards LS7 lifters and just doing a trunnion upgrade, probably Straub, BTR, or Comp.

So what should I go with for lifters and rocker upgrades?

Do I need new valve guides if mine are in alright shape? If so from where/what brand?

Also does this seem like a decent build based on what I have listed? I am going all out with the bolt ons as well but felt it wasn't important to the question to list that stuff.

Any help is appreciated as I've spent countless hours reading through forums only to come across conflicting info or inconclusive answers.

 

That's A SHIPLOAD of money to spend on a 5.3 with a truck cam. All that fancy dancy romantic bottom end stuff, ... waste. The only thing it will accomplish is to make the vehicle faster, by way of weight savings, centered on the owner's wallet.

The cam determines the engine's operating RPM range. It will limit the RPM to a range where the stock rods are perfectly fine. They simply aren't the weak point in these motors. Don't waste your money.

If this is going in a truck, then that cam is probably a good choice, IFF you are adding a decent torque converter with a stall in the 3200 - 3500 kind of range. Circle D, Yank, etc. Otherwise it'll be a bit lazy off the line.

LS7 lifters are fine. New lifter trays are fine. You can get those from ws6store I think, not sure if the stocking problems in general with the LS7 lifters are solved, but they'll know. The high-lift version of that cam that you're using is on the borderline between the better beehive springs and the lower duals such as the BTRs. I'd probably go with the duals but the best beehives are probably OK too. Neither is The Right Thing, and neither is Stupid. TSP push rods are all you need; the $100 ones. Buy a push rod length checker and learn how to use it, BEFORE you buy push rods. You CANNOT predict what length you will need no matter how many people you ask in how many different ways what they used for how many different builds. I'd recommend the CHE or Straub trunnions, NOT the Comp. CHE probably has the edge but not by much.

Don't waste money on things that don't matter. Don't leave out things that DO.

Probably the biggest bang for your buck in terms of "upgrades", would be having the heads CNC'ed. There are many really good programs out there, each is good for different things though. Check TEA, AI, FED, Katech, TSP, and see what they say their programs are set up for. You DO NOT WANT a "max power" program (assuming it's a truck); you should look for one that gives plenty of power of course, but that DOESN'T HURT THE BOTTOM END. With that tiny motor, you need all the help you can get. Let me tell you from DECADES of experience, it is NO FUN WHATSOEVER to be sitting at a stoplight, and get your $5000 motor-build *** drilled and handed to you by somebody driving a STOCK vehicle. Which is EXACTLY what happens when you choose the cam unwisely. Remember, there's NO SUCH THING as "too much cam"; there's only, "not enough motor". Which is EXACTLY what a 5.3 is.

Frankly, I'd ditch the 5.3 and get a 6.0 or 6.2, if I was going to spend money on anything; but that's just me.

Remember always, the basic hot-rod equation:

FUN = $$$$ x cubic inches

You can get yer fun with either $$$$$$, or a bigger motor. Which one do you think is gonna last longer and give you more enjoyment in the long run? You're not gonna rewrite the laws of physics here, your mistakes and your wise decisions will bring you the same consequences they bring everybody else. Stay on the right side of all that.

 

I like the build so far.

Basic valvetrain stuffs, especially for VVT (I'm glad you kept it VVT):
PAC-1204 dual valve springs,
Johnson ST2126LSR lifters,
Manton 0.120" wall 11/32 pushrods,
stock rockers w/ CHE trunion upgrade.

It's not exactly cheap, but the valvetrain is not the area to start pinching pennies.

 

I already have all the parts except lifters, rockers, converter, and an intake system. The short block is at a machine shop already, I'm thinking of dropping the heads off too and just getting some work on the bowl and the runners. What is the issue with LS7 lifters? Also this is bored out to be a 5.7, I'm really just trying to build it so it is decently quick for now but would like to boost it after I build the trans. I should have went with a non vvt cam but I'm fine with running it while its N/A.
I was already leaning towards straub trunions and ls7 lifters based on what I've read here, what do I need to do as far as valve guides? Are stock fine as long as they aren't scarred? I'm gonna get a length checker too, hopefully the pushrods I have will fit but if not I can probably get them exchanged.

 

VVT is perfectly fine with boost, absolutely no reason to remove the VVT until your boost pressure exceeds the use of 400# valve springs... which is about the limit of the VVT system.

LS7 lifters are fine, I guess, if you insist on using OEM stuff. I just trust Johnson more, and feel that the valvetrain is not the area to try save money.