To line bore or not to line bore
There are also some slight scratches on the block at the rearmost main saddle.
The machine shop says this is nothing to worry about, and that they can just be sanded down. However, these scratches on the main caps are directly in line with the cylinders. In other words, they are the spots that will receive the blunt of the blow when the cylinders fire. This is probably not the best place to have a low spot (ie a void) under your mains. Should I take my block to a different shop and have it align bored to correct this (which would also allow me to run ARP main studs!)?
If not happy, a very light line hone would not hurt.
I’ve noted that shops are not careful enough with alum blocks. It’s very easy to scratch the machined surfaces.
If not happy, a very light line hone would not hurt.
I’ve noted that shops are not careful enough with alum blocks. It’s very easy to scratch the machined surfaces.
Most machine shop guys get payed by what the book says the job pays. If the cam bearings pay the guy, say $30 for labor, and it takes him 10 minutes…if the bore and hone pays the guy, say $80, and it takes him 3 hours…
The faster he woks, the more he makes. This is why you try to find quality shops, not cheaper shops. I’d gladly pay $300-$500 more at a quality shop that always turns out nice stuff, than having my stuff beat to crap and half way right. It’s always worth it in the end. There are still quality shops out there, ran by the original owners that still care and are very reasonably priced, but it’s hard to find. If the shop tells you that they are 3-5 months behind…there’s a very good reason that they are, and it’s likely because they do fantastic work at a fair price.
Most machine shop guys get payed by what the book says the job pays. If the cam bearings pay the guy, say $30 for labor, and it takes him 10 minutes…if the bore and hone pays the guy, say $80, and it takes him 3 hours…
The faster he woks, the more he makes. This is why you try to find quality shops, not cheaper shops. I’d gladly pay $300-$500 more at a quality shop that always turns out nice stuff, than having my stuff beat to crap and half way right. It’s always worth it in the end. There are still quality shops out there, ran by the original owners that still care and are very reasonably priced, but it’s hard to find. If the shop tells you that they are 3-5 months behind…there’s a very good reason that they are, and it’s likely because they do fantastic work at a fair price.
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The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Case in point- I recently found a master machinist in a rural area 15 miles from me. I've lived here for 45 years.
Case 2- my neighbor, who worked at Unique Motocars as a machinist, re-splined Moser axles that were too long in his home garage.
They are out there. Most don't advertise, because they have plenty of work.











