Generation IV Internal Engine 2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9

Windage tray

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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 09:28 PM
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Default Windage tray

Not sure how windage tray is supposed to fit. I have the Summit Gen IV block with the pro LS rotating assembly and ARP main studs. The tray lines up and drops right over the outer studs. Is it supposed to have any kind of spacer between it and the studs? A couple rods look close underneath. One area that I can see actually sits on the edge of one of the inner studs. How do you know if it's right. 1st LS build. Any pics showing how the tray is supposed to sit?
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 09:59 PM
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Set the tray on the studs and turn the crank a couple complete turns. Your listening for scrapes and watching for tray movement. If there’s no contact your fine. If it’s a 3.62 stroke, it will clear no problem. If it’s a 4” stroke, you’ll have to space the tray down (up) using washers, usually takes 2 per stud on a 4” stroke. You want it to clear the crank but you don’t need a mile of clearance. You’ll have to play with the oil pump pickup here as well. Do a mock-up fitment with pickup and stud fitment. You’ll likely end up doing some hole enlarging on the pickup bracket or maybe even some bending cutting…maybe not. Might drop right on perfectly. Depends on tray fitment. At this time play with oil pump o-rings. Make sure pickup tube with oring on it slides in pump very firmly without hurting the oring. Use ample lube on the oring. Make sure everything is super clean at final assembly. You don’t want any metal shavings or the like, in the engine anywhere.
Oil pan and front/rear cover alignment is a crucial next step here. I put covers on first and then align pan second, but there are steps to doing it correctly. Take your time there and it won’t drip any oil for years. Do it wrong and it will drip at startup. PM me for more info there. I’ll type 3 pages trying to explain proper setup on covers and pan. Seems easy enough…not.
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Old Sep 2, 2021 | 07:48 AM
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Sac City Corvette sells a oil pan / timing cover alignment tools take a look at those. Also take a look at their aluminum oil barbell that goes in the back vs your plastic one.
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 05:05 PM
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This is what mine looked like it needed a little trimming to fit the Holley-3 stroker pan. The windage tray sat on top of the stud bolts and I also used a crank scraper.



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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 05:29 PM
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Good pics! Thanks!
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Set the tray on the studs and turn the crank a couple complete turns. Your listening for scrapes and watching for tray movement. If there’s no contact your fine. If it’s a 3.62 stroke, it will clear no problem. If it’s a 4” stroke, you’ll have to space the tray down (up) using washers, usually takes 2 per stud on a 4” stroke. You want it to clear the crank but you don’t need a mile of clearance. You’ll have to play with the oil pump pickup here as well. Do a mock-up fitment with pickup and stud fitment. You’ll likely end up doing some hole enlarging on the pickup bracket or maybe even some bending cutting…maybe not. Might drop right on perfectly. Depends on tray fitment. At this time play with oil pump o-rings. Make sure pickup tube with oring on it slides in pump very firmly without hurting the oring. Use ample lube on the oring. Make sure everything is super clean at final assembly. You don’t want any metal shavings or the like, in the engine anywhere.
Oil pan and front/rear cover alignment is a crucial next step here. I put covers on first and then align pan second, but there are steps to doing it correctly. Take your time there and it won’t drip any oil for years. Do it wrong and it will drip at startup. PM me for more info there. I’ll type 3 pages trying to explain proper setup on covers and pan. Seems easy enough…not.
​​​​​​​I dropped my windage on and made a few revolutions and nothing touched. I will recheck after torquing it down.
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