So undecided about going actual dry sump
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
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From: Wilmington, DE
So undecided about going actual dry sump
My c6z im planning on shifting around 7800, and just cant decide on ditching the ac and getting a real dry sump in this. Id be lying if I said I wasn't chasing a horsepower number, but I just wanna do what makes sense.
if I went katech blue pump, It will help control aeration but not eliminate it. Cost a touch under 900
if I went aviaid, its only like 2000 more, tons of little benefits here, big benefit of no foam at all, and should gain what I guess could be 10 to 12 rwhp at peak from this. But I lose ac. Really need some input here
if I went katech blue pump, It will help control aeration but not eliminate it. Cost a touch under 900
if I went aviaid, its only like 2000 more, tons of little benefits here, big benefit of no foam at all, and should gain what I guess could be 10 to 12 rwhp at peak from this. But I lose ac. Really need some input here
#2
I would never give up the A/C. Car loses major value with that mod. Becomes pretty much “race car” at that moment. Especially not for 15-20 hp. You’ll never feel 15-20 on the street.
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#3
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
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From: Wilmington, DE
Im 50 percent about th hp gains, and 50 percent about the other gains from it. In theory I honestly think an upgraded pump would be enough. Since its a dry sump hybrid system, it does have some benefits over a standard short crank wet sump. If I was trying to decide to build a short crank wet sump or a long snout setup the gains would be more significant
#4
Im 50 percent about th hp gains, and 50 percent about the other gains from it. In theory I honestly think an upgraded pump would be enough. Since its a dry sump hybrid system, it does have some benefits over a standard short crank wet sump. If I was trying to decide to build a short crank wet sump or a long snout setup the gains would be more significant
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DualQuadDave (09-03-2021)
#5
If you track the car (road course or autox) enough to consider track use more important than street use, go for it. Otherwise, it’s a bit silly.
OTOH, I pulled the A/C out of my LS swapped Miata to lose the weight off the nose and improve the handling … so you wouldn’t be the only silly guy on here.
If you’re really only chasing a big dyno number, think harder about why you’d give a **** about what anybody else thinks. 🙂
OTOH, I pulled the A/C out of my LS swapped Miata to lose the weight off the nose and improve the handling … so you wouldn’t be the only silly guy on here.
If you’re really only chasing a big dyno number, think harder about why you’d give a **** about what anybody else thinks. 🙂
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Corona (09-02-2021)
#7
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
Likes: 162
From: Wilmington, DE
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Corona (09-02-2021)
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#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
Likes: 162
From: Wilmington, DE
If you track the car (road course or autox) enough to consider track use more important than street use, go for it. Otherwise, it’s a bit silly.
OTOH, I pulled the A/C out of my LS swapped Miata to lose the weight off the nose and improve the handling … so you wouldn’t be the only silly guy on here.
If you’re really only chasing a big dyno number, think harder about why you’d give a **** about what anybody else thinks. 🙂
OTOH, I pulled the A/C out of my LS swapped Miata to lose the weight off the nose and improve the handling … so you wouldn’t be the only silly guy on here.
If you’re really only chasing a big dyno number, think harder about why you’d give a **** about what anybody else thinks. 🙂
#10
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
Likes: 162
From: Wilmington, DE
#12
You could go with high mount Holley brackets…same as GM except a/c is high on pass side and then throw a dry sump setup at it. I run the Holley setup and it’s identical to the GM stuff. This would require a new set of ac lines but that’s the easy part. So…YES.
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G Atsma (09-02-2021)
#13
My c6z im planning on shifting around 7800, and just cant decide on ditching the ac and getting a real dry sump in this. Id be lying if I said I wasn't chasing a horsepower number, but I just wanna do what makes sense.
if I went katech blue pump, It will help control aeration but not eliminate it. Cost a touch under 900
if I went aviaid, its only like 2000 more, tons of little benefits here, big benefit of no foam at all, and should gain what I guess could be 10 to 12 rwhp at peak from this. But I lose ac. Really need some input here
if I went katech blue pump, It will help control aeration but not eliminate it. Cost a touch under 900
if I went aviaid, its only like 2000 more, tons of little benefits here, big benefit of no foam at all, and should gain what I guess could be 10 to 12 rwhp at peak from this. But I lose ac. Really need some input here
#14
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
Likes: 162
From: Wilmington, DE
yea trying to avoid this. I think for now im goona run a crank pump and see how it goes. Adding ac back later would be a pain vs removing it later
#15
If you just want the horsepower you can put a high mount vacuum pump where people are suggesting you put the AC compressor.
Running vacuum (dry sump or vacuum pump) is really only beneficial when you also run the appropriate low tension ring pack that much more significantly reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Without the right rings you're looking at a much smaller horsepower gain.
Running vacuum (dry sump or vacuum pump) is really only beneficial when you also run the appropriate low tension ring pack that much more significantly reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Without the right rings you're looking at a much smaller horsepower gain.
#16
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,690
Likes: 162
From: Wilmington, DE
If you just want the horsepower you can put a high mount vacuum pump where people are suggesting you put the AC compressor.
Running vacuum (dry sump or vacuum pump) is really only beneficial when you also run the appropriate low tension ring pack that much more significantly reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Without the right rings you're looking at a much smaller horsepower gain.
Running vacuum (dry sump or vacuum pump) is really only beneficial when you also run the appropriate low tension ring pack that much more significantly reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Without the right rings you're looking at a much smaller horsepower gain.