2010 ly6 would like to change pump while doing cam . Would like a little more pressure . Now with 5/30 it’s 17-18 lbs hot idle
unless I run Mobil 1 15-50 then it’s 28-30 hot idle . I would assume that the vvt pump is high volume , but can’t find pressure specs online . I was thinking high volume, high pressure . Anybody got any info on vvt pump ?

 

Improved Racing usually has documentation and comparisons on their website.

https://www.improvedracing.com/

 

I used a precision oil pump standard volume race pump. The bearings are .0018-.0027 oil pressure is 40 at idle when hot. And 50 at startup cold. It climbs to 50-70 with rpms.

 

With VVT deleted and using a Melling 10295 Standard volume/ High pressure. Idle cold is 55 warm is 45, Max pressure is between 65 and 75 depending on oil temperature and RPM

 

Melling 10355HV will give you 90-100 psi cold idle (50°F ish oil temp) and 55-75 psi (200°F oil temp) hot idle depending on bearing clearances, oil filter, oil cooler, turbos, accusump **WITH** the high pressure spring.

Melling 10355 (fancy Melling version of the AFM/DoD pump) will give you 15-20 psi less at cold temps and about the same hot temps up until 225°F
10296 will generally max out at 70psi at any temp and idle over 35 psi, as long as oil temps stay below 230°F this pump is ok. 215-230°F this pump starts to show its limitations, oil pressure drops to 45-55 psi at 7,000rpm

If you are not redlining at hot oil temps or putting high loads for a substantial amount of time you don't need anything more than the Melling 10296. The pumps always come with 3 springs, roughly -10psi, standard, and +10psi. The different flow of these pumps will also affect pressure.

There is nothing wrong with running any of these pumps, no such thing as high oil pressure.

 

I gave up on replying to oil pump threads here on Tech. Pretty much every time I posted up info such as you’ve done here, I got shot down like a lead balloon….from folks who have never built anything or changed a pump out. For what it’s worth, I like the info you posted here. I run the 10296 in my 434. 70 lbs cold start idle, touch the throttle and it jumps to 100 lbs. 40 lbs hot idle for me but my rod bearings are set up at .0019, which is on the tight side for my power level. 6 quart Holley pan and I rpm the **** out of it when I can. Pump was ported by Mamo. I do run a big Improved oil cooler and axle oiling solid lifters, so I felt like I needed the slight increase in oil volume.

 

I see why you need the high volume, and why others do for similar reasons (loose bearing clearances, lifters w/axle oiling), but do you recommend this same pump for stock non-DOD/VVT setups?

 

I too like the L-92 oil pump with a "pressure" spring at times.
My CONCERN is the POOR quality of the HOLLEY/GM pan in the area UNDER the oil filter insert.
I remove that insert AND port the oil flow passages for improved flow.
SO SIMPLE, just too EASY to be of benefit!

 

I try to be objective and fair, which is why I keep trying.

10296 is a good pump, I recommend it over the stock pumps for the majority.
Mamo ported and 0.0019 on the rods will let the pump keep flowing enough when the oil temps get hot. This is also why Che70velle had better oil pressure than I did with the same pump.

I was basing my oil pressure numbers at 0.0025" on the rods and an aluminum block, I am also using 200,000+ mile bottom end. I tried to make up for it with 0.0014" on the mains. In my case I was asking for too much back when I had the 10296. I wanted 70 psi at 7,500 rpm at 235°F oil temp. Yeah OK, that is how I ended up going to a 10355HV and revving to 8,000rpm

Cliff Notes (instead of my usual wall of text):
I would tear into a brand new crate LS3 and swap out the stock pump for a Melling 10296 before putting it into my modified street, strip, AND/OR race car.

I have a 2003 chevy silverado that is completely stock and my daily which I have no intention of touching the oil pump for as long as the engine shall reside in said car.

I have deleted AFM/DoD from my "insert GM product here" I would remove the bullshit pressure valve in the oil pan instead and not waste money on replacing the pump.

 

GM pumps and RPM don’t play well together. Cavitation. Porting the pump helps this greatly. Air in the oil is bad especially with a non-priority main oil setup as the LS/LT has. A priority main setup pushes air bubbles up, not down. Free info there if you guys are paying attention…
I left the GM pump in my Silverado also, but it is just a church cruiser and occasional run to the dump truck. Zero chances of it ever seeing RPM. Too nice a vehicle. I don’t like GM pumps for anything but a cruiser. If your going to RPM it, go with a Melling or other pump.
My Improved oil cooler won’t let the oil temp get over 195 in the 434. Stays at 180-182 at speed. Very efficient cooler. Almost works too good. I like to see oil get to at least 200 from time to time.
Good point Lance brought up about porting the pan above the oil filter. Passage alignment there is crap and always needs work. We’ve covered that before here on Tech.

 

I agree with this. The stock oil pumps have a problem with cavitation and rpm.

People will recommend upgrading the camshaft and saying its a good idea, it will make more power, drive better, rev higher "its ok you only need some double valve springs and maybe a higher stall converter".
No one mentions that the stock valvetrain is so mild and soft that toyota gets ***** envy. No one mentions that lifters (and main bearings for that matter) like the higher oil pressure and the stock oil pump will not flow enough oil for a higher redline.
If you are changing the valve springs for a higher lift camshaft, yes you will benefit from a higher flowing oil pump.

There is also the frequent mention of the oil pan running dry and oil pooling in the cylinder head from aftermarket oil pumps, none of that is related (or possible) to the oil pump flow.
It is an oil pan problem.
With the Melling 10355HV and a 6 quart oil pan:
The only time I have ever had an oil pressure drop during cornering at 75+ mph (on 200UTQG tires) is when my engine eats 2 quarts or more of oil and I forget to add.

I use an aftermarket oil pan on my modified LS engines and I don't have the stock oil filter mounting. Its just an outlet and inlet port where that would normally be.
Instead I have an Improved Racing oil cooler thermostat/remote filter. I run a 200°F thermostat to keep the oil temps up (I am considering dropping down to a 180°F thermostat) and I measure my oil temps after the oil cooler and before the engine. I always see the lowest oil temp which means I can hit a peak of 275°F oil temp before the oil cooler and never know it, then bitch about my pressure falling to 55 psi at 7,500rpm.

The only oil problem I have ran into so far on the LS: Braking hard from speeds of 120mph through 165mph will cause my oil pickup to starve (I have a f body pickup so "Mid" sump). Even so with the 10355HV my oil pressure drops to 35psi @any rpm, @ any oil temp, until I go back on the throttle or let off the brakes. This is bad for down shifting while braking but it still has nothing to do with the oil pump.

 

I run the Improved 180 and it’s dead on accurate.

 

I meant I only know the oil temp after it has gone through the oil cooler. I don't know what temp it is at the thermostat and before the oil cooler. If I let the car idle, oil temps will be between 170-190. Cruising it usually never goes over 185-190. Ambient temp also has an effect.

 

I knew what you were saying. I was just throwing Improved a bone.

 

 

Once relief opens it should maintain around the pressure of that spring. I’m have issues and trying mamos ported m365 to see if I can get my pressure up not even hitting the relief under load