Hey everyone, I have my GTO almost put back together and was about to order new pushrods, talking to comp about pre load they suggested I give Johnson a call. So I did and Joe was awesome and gave me all the info I needed, except he was a bit worried on my Cam and using the 2110R. If i heard him right it was about the lift on my cam and the lifter coming out of the trays and rotation. I need some advice is anyone has had this issue? specs below. really could use some insight.

ls2 408
Stock LS3 top end.
Texas Speed Stage 4 "F-35" LS3 N/A Camshaft 235/248 .649"/615" 111 LSA, 109.5 ICL

The question I had to ask Johnson was my pushrod length since my exhaust and intake were different and needed help deciding what length to use. which he gave until i gave my cam specs.

Exhaust Length measured below.
7.41 with the .035 Preload
7.42 with the +.010
7.4 with the - 0.01

suggested id be ok with the 7.25 due to the travel before I gave him the cam specs. The Intake would be 7.425 as well as with preload i was at 7.4225.

 

Did you happen to measure every pushrod.
.035 preload is about half the thickness of a penny.
Best to get a caliper and measure every pushrod.
when I called around for pushrods only Manton could get them within .006 of what was ordered. Good luck.

 

Yes, I measure everyone multiple times on a few different days to make sure I wasn't going crazy or off. Exhaust came out to be 7.375 and intake 7.3875 before adding in pre load. Right now I'm more concerned on the fact Johnson felt less than confident their lifters would work with my lift. I'm trying to find some threads of others using these and the lifts they have had.

 

Are you against using a link bar like a 2116lsr Johnson?
You must have the best block deck surface, Head surface and valve seats depth in the history of LS motors to have all the valves and surfaces to be that perfect is great.

 

lol, well #8 exhaust is 7.3626 so that one would use a 7.4 but the rest were the same. Against it? not at all, however I was recommended by Texas speed and a local shop to buy these. So I planned my budget and everything around it. To go back and drop close to $800 on new lifter and try to sell mine isn't ideal. which sucks because I would have got the bar ones to start if I was told to sadly. The floating money I have left over is for a tune and small bit but not that much extra cash right now.

 

I ran the 2110r lifters in my old 447 with .667 lift and shifted at 8k on every pass.

 

I think I might have had something mixed up. I'm pretty new at all of this. I told Joe at Johnson my exhaust lift was .649. But if the cam specs are 235/248 .649/.615 than my exhaust lift is .615 right? I'll have to call him back in the morning to tell him as well. but thanks for that info. makes me a bit better knowing.

 

That's correct and you're welcome.

 

somewhat of an old thread, did you have any problems running those specific lifters with the f-35 cam ?

 

.......only Manton could get them within .006". REALLY?? This is absolutely BS. NOT from YOU, but from the PR manufacturers. My good God, when I ran a circa 1970's manual lathe, I could hold better than a .006" length!!! With today's equipment, there should be absolutely no problem holding a PR length to +-.001/.0015. Ridiculous. If it was aluminum I'd give them a slight break. But not with steel. Damn! Machinery must've come over on the Mayflower!!!!

 

That’s what I thought when trying to order pushrods. Called quite a few places, wasn’t going to argue with them. Even the Mantons came in different sizes not exactly what I ordered. (Very close though) They are a 3 piece rod so many the ends aren’t exactly the same who knows.

 

A couple thou is such a small measurement. This is why I went solids. I'm done playing this game with aggressive short travel lifters its nothing but a problem. They will tell you being off by 5 thou can be the difference between a quiet smooth operating engine and a lot of valve train noise. There are too many variables. The lifter cup could be off by .001. The rocker could be off by .001. The head gasket could be off. Maybe the head or deck aren't milled perfectly flat and are .001 off. Maybe the pushrod is .001 too short. Maybe your hobo freight calipers are off by .004

This gets stupid real fast.

 

That IS a damn good argument for solids. Another is slightly more protection from valve float if an overrev situation occurs.
The only negative thing about solids that I've heard is they are hard on the roller wheel needles. If I were going to solids, I'd really consider using Isky E-Z Roll lifters, or equivalent. My .02......