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Rollmaster CS1190 timing set installation question
Hello all,
I am installing a Rollmaster CS1190 timing set on a stock LS3 crank with my new camshaft, but I ran into something that I am not sure about.
I’m not sure if the lower sprocket that goes on the crank should be very easy to slip on the crank or if it should have a interference fit like the stock sprocket. I used a GM Kent Moore sprocket puller for the stock gear but when installing the new Rollmaster gear on the crank it slide ride on without any resistance. The lower sprocket is a two piece design.
just want to know if this is normal? Does the sprocket just get sandwiched in between the crank and balancer once torqued down?
I sent an email to
romacusa, but have not heard back yet. I will also update this thread with their response if I get one.
Last edited by jorgezee1; Feb 9, 2022 at 11:10 AM.
They usually slide on with very little fight. Sometimes none at all. So it's probably just fine. The damper bolt clamps it down pretty hard, after all.
I like that style of chain damper... dead simple, not liable to break, eliminates the action that's the single biggest malfunction, which is the chain "whipping" on the pass side as it comes off of the crank sprocket.
Thanks guys, also called Texas Speed and they confirm the same. Once it’s torqued down it will not matter.
Also incase someone else finds this post, searching this part number. My kit did not come with a card that said it may need clearance for the bearing. I initially installed it without even thinking about it and found a few threads on the Torrington bearing bottoming out on the plate. Since I still have everything open I decided to check and sure enough the inner bearing was making contact with the cam retainer. I went ahead and added a 45 degree chamfer with a die grinder to clearance for the inner bearing.
Using a drum sander I was able to get some chamfer but not the .060" - .080". My freehand skills sucks using using a die grinder The drum was able to get a nice smooth bevel knocking off the sharp edge. 10,000 plus miles and no issues.
I posted in the other thread a couple years ago that I’d never had a Rollmaster set come with the card. Well low and behold, the next set I used after that came with the card, so I beveled the retainer plate. I saw no difference either way, but it took all of 10 minutes to bevel the plate, so why not? Interesting to me though that the exact same part number a couple years ago and before didn’t have the card in those I bought, but then all of a sudden the card was there. Either way, I love the product and it’s the only timing set I use in my own stuff.
I started a thread two years ago about the plate chamfer using the Rollmaster set HERE
Here is the notice that came with my timing set
Using a drum sander I was able to get some chamfer but not the .060" - .080". My freehand skills sucks using using a die grinder The drum was able to get a nice smooth bevel knocking off the sharp edge. 10,000 plus miles and no issues.
your post was the reason I checked mine!
my chain did not come with that card and while looking for my answer about the slip on fit of the sprocket I ran across your thread.
I was not so nice about the bevel, I just took a carbide bit on my die grinder and slow worked the edge and checked every so often if it cleared. Took about 10-15 min. If I decide to swap the cam again I will just pick up a new plate and take it to a machine shop to get it done on a mill. If I ever decide to go back into it.
I just finished the cam install, so hopefully I can take care of a few more things before I fire it back up on my front subframe and do a base tune on the cam (aka: load a mail order tune).
decided to pin the crank, no reason other than I already had the tool and extra pins. It’s a N/A motor with a small cam, so this is overkill for my HP range.
used on old cover to block the debris and the ATI pinning tool.
This whole project started only because I wanted to swap the oil pump for my upgraded Mast Motorsports pan and oil cooler setup. Than I just ordered a cam since I was in there. Decided on staying relatively on the smaller and low lift side to use the GM springs.
prior to the cam swap, I was already running the engine sorting out for clearances of parts, setting up fans, oil cooler route and so on. Just wanted to get everything pre-setup before for my LS swap.
home made run stand.
hopefully I can get it back together and finished up by next weekend.
Last edited by jorgezee1; Feb 8, 2022 at 12:08 AM.
I posted in the other thread a couple years ago that I’d never had a Rollmaster set come with the card. Well low and behold, the next set I used after that came with the card, so I beveled the retainer plate. I saw no difference either way, but it took all of 10 minutes to bevel the plate, so why not? Interesting to me though that the exact same part number a couple years ago and before didn’t have the card in those I bought, but then all of a sudden the card was there. Either way, I love the product and it’s the only timing set I use in my own stuff.
FWIW, The JP Performance timing chain kit is like the rollmaster kit. I believe owned by the same company.
Any how same issue, no card in the past. Now it comes with that same warning.
I purchased a nice used large 90* counter sink that I can use in a mill for this modification. I couldn't get a nice enough even hand finish but this takes the guess work out of it.
I purchased a nice used large 90* counter sink that I can use in a mill for this modification. I couldn't get a nice enough even hand finish but this takes the guess work out of it.
Hey Brick could the counter sink be used in a drill press?
I couldn't bring up the link since its been too long. I forgot this particular one had a step shaft, So it could be used in a drill press. Most of the other ones have a larger shank.
It said it was 2-1/2 90* with a removable blade. I could only get the thumbnail image from the transaction page on my account.
I couldn't bring up the link since its been too long. I forgot this particular one had a step shaft, So it could be used in a drill press. Most of the other ones have a larger shank.
It said it was 2-1/2 90* with a removable blade. I could only get the thumbnail image from the transaction page on my account.
Very Nice!
I will look into this, it definitely beats holding the retainer plate in one hand and the grinder in the other and carefully try not to take to much off.
curious if you guys would not run the dampener block with these chains?
I watch a video on installing the oil pump and one of thing I noticed was he had the Rollmaster setup and in the comments he mentions he does not run the dampener as the chains are strong enough. Any thought on this?
Mine happens to be a gen3 block. I drilled and tapped the block to use the dampener. ICT billet makes a drill guide for this or Trick flow has a bolt on bracket kit. My thought is that it will minimise chain whip on excel/decel. GM designed it for a reason and I am sure that research alone cost them hundereds of thousands of dollars. I am sure if it wasn't needed, they would have chosen to save the money.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; Feb 9, 2022 at 11:14 AM.
How times have changed in 20 years. I recall once upon a time folks blasting Rollmaster when their timing sets first came out and right after because it didn't have a known name on the box etc. Anyway my 2x roller Rollmaster w/Jwis chain was flawless in operation but a bit fiddly to get installed
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Rollmaster CS1190 timing set installation question 
The drum was able to get a nice smooth bevel knocking off the sharp edge. 10,000 plus miles and no issues.
