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You can get close with those. Please re-read the measurements you posted above. i will quote for refferance. Hopefullly with the dial calipers closed you zeroed it out.
The main crank journals on the crank shaft should be one of the following: 2.559 - STD 2.549 - .010 under 2.539 - .020 under 2.529 - .030 under
The empty bearing housing on the block should measure 2.750-2.751 in.
Hopefully this helps
ok so is that bare block measurement just snuged down or toqured
that's why my measurements were off I snugged it didn't toqure it it will move a few tho when toqure that's why I knew that if the block with bearings is the same as the journals within 1 thou that it was not good I will have another crank and bearings tomorrow evening hopefully everything goes smooth so I can check oil clearance and move on to the rods it had spun 3 rod bearings so I ordered 4 rods because I don't trust those 3 rods now and i feel i will not like atleast one more of them before its over
that's why my measurements were off I snugged it didn't toqure it it will move a few tho when toqure that's why I knew that if the block with bearings is the same as the journals within 1 thou that it was not good I will have another crank and bearings tomorrow evening hopefully everything goes smooth so I can check oil clearance and move on to the rods it had spun 3 rod bearings so I ordered 4 rods because I don't trust those 3 rods now and i feel i will not like atleast one more of them before its over
Well If they spun a bearing, they are usually junk on cracked cap style rods. Especially if they had heat in them.
Well If they spun a bearing, they are usually junk on cracked cap style rods. Especially if they had heat in them.
it's why I bought 4 instead of 3 i imagine when i examine them for install im going to find atleast 1 extra i dont like the heat can be a bitch when it comes to metal and high tolerance the boy wasnt nice to this motor i have a gen 3 block i may use if everything goes south since i have the 58tooth crank
I ran into this problem only once, thankfully. It was on a Gen 1 400 SBC crank that was having the mains turned to the size needed for a 350 SBC. This ended up a 383 stroker. Anyway, the guy who ground the crank ground the mains +.003"!! It wouldn't turn, so I mic'ed the journals, and found the problem.......
You can get close with those. Please re-read the measurements you posted above. i will quote for refferance. Hopefullly with the dial calipers closed you zeroed it out.
The main crank journals on the crank shaft should be one of the following: 2.559 - STD 2.549 - .010 under 2.539 - .020 under 2.529 - .030 under
The empty bearing housing on the block should measure 2.750-2.751 in.
Hopefully this helps
ok so I'm sending the block to the machine shop today to have it line bored because the bare block torqued down does not meet the measurements above hopefully the machine shop doesn't tell me that he can't get it in spec
I'd have them build the shortblock for you while they have it...
that's not an option but thanks for the advice at this point I'm too deep in to not finish and like I stated before this isn't my first build the other builds were not with dammaged engines I have 3 more of these engines to build all of them are running engines and Gen 3 not Gen 4 or when I seen the rods and crank this one would have been set aside and I would have built one of the better engines instead
ok so I'm sending the block to the machine shop today to have it line bored because the bare block torqued down does not meet the measurements above hopefully the machine shop doesn't tell me that he can't get it in spec
ok so time for the truth I have built upwards of 30 engines older engines I have built probably 5 Hondas besides the old school motors I grew up on had a all aluminum 89 sho engine that I built the people that actually helped so the next man can do it if he reads this ty
Ok so this post is for the people that read this because they have similar issues ls engines are strong for a reason they have a tight tolerance I'm happy to say that after working with the local machinist one of the few to work on these engines in my area he magna tested it for cracks and line bored it if it's all aluminum it should be done 100 the cast blocks look for the discoloration in the caps if it got hot u will see dark circles around the bearing cap it's how I knew how many rods to buy also why I started this post also why I knew from the beginning that line boar was needed just wanted to share how you identify the issues and deal with them after you find them to the guys that helped ty
So after lots of research and much help from the community here it is complete will go In in a couple of days 2008 stage 2 cam dod delete new crank main and rod bearings new rings and had to replace some of the rods
Did the original crank spin the main bearings and cause the issue?
the boy lost oil pressure and it shut off so he thought it a good idea to immediately start it back up and do a break stand causing it to spin 3 main bearings and 3 rod bearings it lost oil pressure because 2 of the lifters locked up due to dod malfunction causing the cam to be ground down in 2 places atleast 3/8 of an inch of metal was ground off on 2 lobes and circulated down to the main bearing oil journals when I pulled the crank there were big chunks of metal in the oil journals
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