Close .630

 

If I was going solid roller, the lifters I think I'd go with would be something like Isky E-Z Roll lifters, or similar. Anyone trie running that style solid, and maybe adjustable pushrods?

 

The pushrods intrigue me, but doesn't seem like anyone shares their experience with them.

 

I've considered swapping over to a solid roller more than a few times just for high RPM valvetrain stability.
Hydraulics haven't really let me down yet, and even though I can rev them to 8 grand, I wonder how much I'm giving up or risking up top.
Being able to do it on stock rockers has been nudging my decision a bit.

 

Splitting hairs there. With hot lash, your lift would be ~.620 anyway. it's not like you're pushing .650 or .680 or .750 lift like some crazy guys on here do (me)

 

True, but if going solid I would want more lift otherwise why bother. Put a turbo on your big lift setup then you'll be as crazy as some of us

 

Where’s Mickey? He’s got over 30k miles on his solid setup. He will be here I’m sure.
I don’t have enough miles on mine to comment. Had a couple really busy years here and haven’t even had the Chevelle out since May. I’ve started it up and pulled it out of the shop a hundred times but haven’t put any miles on it. I will say regarding this subject however, that todays solid lobe designs, along with rocker stability in the LS architecture makes for a very robust and reliable solid roller setup. I’ve heard of many folks checking lash at 10k street miles and it hadn’t moved.

 

After reading a few threads, it seem more people are having issues with lifters failing rather than lash adjustments. Was not planning to have any machine work done to the block in order to run a larger lifter body; wanted to do a SBE deal. Still leaning towards doing a LLSR setup.

 

You don't have to run a larger lifter.... I got normal size Ls S/R Lifters.

BAM lifters seems to be the hot trend with builders right now...
it's one of those spend once things as there rebuildable. New style bushed lifters eliminate any thoughts of failures.

 

They said the same thing about the early gen honda fits, the guys that own them and pay attention know better, they need done about ever 35K miles, or suffer the consequences.. Single over head cam quad valve "i-vtec"

On the other hand my 57 Fairlane that had solid lifters ,, it needed them checked, and usually you'd need to tweek 1 or 2 , but you knew, it would get noisy..

 

I was reading about BAM. I actually got a random e-mail last night from BTR. They now sell BTR/BAM roller lifters. Thinking this is the route I will be taking once I'm ready to start collecting parts.

 

Bump....re read my edit..

I worried more about lifters than a cylinder head and stress on behalf of either part.

 

Who loves you... one person who Spoke is a Pro Stock engine builder.


https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...fters.2661240/

 

I plan to run a LS7 based head. How would you do this with pedestal mount rockers that don't use a rail system? What's the max lift you would run in this configuration? Ideally I want to be in the .700" lift range or greater.

 

Yup, read that post last night

 

If you're using stock lifters (no roller tip), I would stop at .650 lift. Even then, I would run lash caps to spread out the scrubbing. you should run lash caps if you run titanium valves, anyway...

If you want .700, you'll need a roller tip. the good news is, if you are using the stock-style pedestals, you can put a machine shim under the seat, and it will conform just fine. You will want to be within .008" so that you can use super flimsy shims.

If using a YT, for example, the rockers are in pairs. You don't want to be stupid off between the valves, but if there is a .003" difference in shim height between the two sides, it's fine you'll have that much variation on accident from stacked tolerances. What I would do is first set your wipe pattern. Then, measure all 16 pushrods individually to the nth degree. Then order custom pushrods from someone like Manton. It's not unusual to end up getting several lengths. As an example, if I get 9 measurements that all are between 7.830 and 7.836, I'll order all 9 at 7.838, counting on a +/- .003 variation from Manton. then measure all of them so I can optimize from there. Ideally, every single one of the pedestals will want .005" shim. if I end up less than ideal, then I try to play the mix and match game to get the shims the same or nearly the same on both sides. It will slightly affect wipe, but not really. For example, if the ideal shim for wipe is .120", and you add another .005, it's not the end of the world, and you probably wouldn't be able to see the difference on the valve tip if you re-did your wipe. I usually will order a couple extra at each length to give myself a few more options for the mix and match game.

I think that is enough for you to follow the logic? You're pretty savvy on this stuff, so beyond that, if you need anything, just ask

 

Springs are really want sets lift limits.
Over .800 lift. Heads get expensive quick cause you are pretty limited on spring selection. I had to go to a brodix head made for solid springs. Still waiting on rockers. Several months to get a set of solid roller adjustable rockers.

 

I got 30,00miles out of my cammotion solid roller, daily driven. I broke a valve spring which damaged the lifter which damaged a cam lobe, all the other lobes looked mint. I also replaced the yt rockers , I broke one and a few other were showing signs of wear
Adjusting lash isn’t an issue at all. Lash shouldn’t change , if you do find you have more adjustment to one than the others , have a really really good look at why
ill be changing valve springs once a yr , replace rockers every 2nd yr
That May change due to ill be going to titanium valves and trying a different spring in December this yr.
just go the lightest possible valve train, replace springs regularly, check rockers regularly , if those things are done your cam will last a very long time

 

Thank you. Yes, it makes sense.

 

Thank you.