NA C6z Build
#142
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Everyone knows NA is more expensive than boost. We get it.
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#143
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So, I kind of wanted to wait before saying anything but I've torn the engine down again. Something happened during that night of racing and ended up taking some of the ringland off cylinder #5. Unfortunately I wasn't logging the car that night so I can't say for sure what happened. Thankfully, damage was minimal and is fixable.
I have some Wiseco pistons on the way and a set of the Summit gas ported piston rings. Going to a 112mm throttle body from the 108mm. Getting rid of the heavy Monster clutch in favor of a lighter Mantic twin disc. I also sent the heads/lower intake off to get some port work done.
I'll be keeping the same valvetrain, as I believe this cam has more to give with some better parts around it.
I don't think a, modest, 50whp gain is out of the question.
I have some Wiseco pistons on the way and a set of the Summit gas ported piston rings. Going to a 112mm throttle body from the 108mm. Getting rid of the heavy Monster clutch in favor of a lighter Mantic twin disc. I also sent the heads/lower intake off to get some port work done.
I'll be keeping the same valvetrain, as I believe this cam has more to give with some better parts around it.
I don't think a, modest, 50whp gain is out of the question.
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logan2ss (08-25-2022)
#144
On The Tree
So, I kind of wanted to wait before saying anything but I've torn the engine down again. Something happened during that night of racing and ended up taking some of the ringland off cylinder #5. Unfortunately I wasn't logging the car that night so I can't say for sure what happened. Thankfully, damage was minimal and is fixable.
I have some Wiseco pistons on the way and a set of the Summit gas ported piston rings. Going to a 112mm throttle body from the 108mm. Getting rid of the heavy Monster clutch in favor of a lighter Mantic twin disc. I also sent the heads/lower intake off to get some port work done.
I'll be keeping the same valvetrain, as I believe this cam has more to give with some better parts around it.
I don't think a, modest, 50whp gain is out of the question.
I have some Wiseco pistons on the way and a set of the Summit gas ported piston rings. Going to a 112mm throttle body from the 108mm. Getting rid of the heavy Monster clutch in favor of a lighter Mantic twin disc. I also sent the heads/lower intake off to get some port work done.
I'll be keeping the same valvetrain, as I believe this cam has more to give with some better parts around it.
I don't think a, modest, 50whp gain is out of the question.
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jayyyw (08-25-2022)
#145
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wretched73 (08-25-2022)
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jayyyw (08-25-2022)
#147
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One of those fireball pictures had a little extra coming with it lol. Very very lucky not to crack a sleeve or the block.
Could that piston have been hitting the head? Or the angle mill brought the plug into contact with it? Maybe you need to space the spark plugs out a little
Could that piston have been hitting the head? Or the angle mill brought the plug into contact with it? Maybe you need to space the spark plugs out a little
Last edited by spanks13; 08-25-2022 at 11:09 AM.
#148
ModSquad
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You should play the lotto. That should have been a total loss. Good on you man.
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DualQuadDave (08-25-2022), jayyyw (08-25-2022)
#150
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#151
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One of those fireball pictures had a little extra coming with it lol. Very very lucky not to crack a sleeve or the block.
Could that piston have been hitting the head? Or the angle mill brought the plug into contact with it? Maybe you need to space the spark plugs out a little
Could that piston have been hitting the head? Or the angle mill brought the plug into contact with it? Maybe you need to space the spark plugs out a little
I don't think anything was hitting. I've pulled the plugs 5-6 times since I've gotten the car running and after pulls and had 0 signs of interference.
#152
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I think it happened on the last run of the night. I felt a hesitation/heard a buzz up near redline in 4th. I assumed maybe my clutch pedal had sank enough to trigger my 2-step switch so I let off the throttle. I drove the car home, about 45min drive and all seemed okay. Until I pulled the plugs, that is. All the others looked fine. Only that one had the issue.
#153
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Thread Starter
#154
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Thread Starter
What's the compression limit with pump E85. I don't want to have to spike the tank every time I want to beat on the car. The compression ratio with the new pistons is going to be a little spicy. It's going to be 15.3-15.8 depending on what gasket thickness we decide to run. Cam specs at .006" are 318/334 115+6. Dynamic compression is coming out to 9.8 and effective ratio is 9.3.
Torn on exhaust. I want to keep it as light weight as possible. I don't have enough room to put mufflers directly under the car, without running them all the way out back. I was thinking of deleting the factory fuel tanks and running a single fuel cell in the back of the car. Then I can route the exhaust out the sides. That should help with some of the drone (I hope). On top of aiding traction with the weight distribution.
My heads/lower intake are getting worked over by Iron Mask Airflow. He's been doing some great work lately. I have no doubts he can work some magic on my stuff.
Plan is to go with a Mantic twin disc cerametallic clutch. This should drop ~15lbs over the Monster twin that's in the car and have significantly less MOI due to the overall smaller design. I've had one of these clutches in my last car and I loved how it drove and shifted.
The TB is the only thing I don't see making a huge difference. But might as well try and see what it will do.
Unfortunately, the bottom end rebuild wasn't planned and I don't want the car to sit for an extended period of time. This is the reason I will not be switching to a solid roller at this time. I believe there is more to gain with the current one still. Regardless, I don't think I will be disappointed.
Not sure if I will do the final tuning on this one. I purchased a Holley course to try an learn a little more. Still have some time to decide. I'm confident in my ability to dial in the fuel table (the easy part) but its the timing table that is over my head.
Torn on exhaust. I want to keep it as light weight as possible. I don't have enough room to put mufflers directly under the car, without running them all the way out back. I was thinking of deleting the factory fuel tanks and running a single fuel cell in the back of the car. Then I can route the exhaust out the sides. That should help with some of the drone (I hope). On top of aiding traction with the weight distribution.
My heads/lower intake are getting worked over by Iron Mask Airflow. He's been doing some great work lately. I have no doubts he can work some magic on my stuff.
Plan is to go with a Mantic twin disc cerametallic clutch. This should drop ~15lbs over the Monster twin that's in the car and have significantly less MOI due to the overall smaller design. I've had one of these clutches in my last car and I loved how it drove and shifted.
The TB is the only thing I don't see making a huge difference. But might as well try and see what it will do.
Unfortunately, the bottom end rebuild wasn't planned and I don't want the car to sit for an extended period of time. This is the reason I will not be switching to a solid roller at this time. I believe there is more to gain with the current one still. Regardless, I don't think I will be disappointed.
Not sure if I will do the final tuning on this one. I purchased a Holley course to try an learn a little more. Still have some time to decide. I'm confident in my ability to dial in the fuel table (the easy part) but its the timing table that is over my head.
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wretched73 (08-26-2022)
#155
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On the clutch pedal going towards the floor make sure you get the updated GM C6 Corvette clutch master cylinder they came out with 5 years ago it helps with that issue. You can tell if you got one as the master cylinder is all black versus the cream color reservoir the old ones had.
#156
TECH Enthusiast
#157
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Thread Starter
On the clutch pedal going towards the floor make sure you get the updated GM C6 Corvette clutch master cylinder they came out with 5 years ago it helps with that issue. You can tell if you got one as the master cylinder is all black versus the cream color reservoir the old ones had.
#158
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Thread Starter
That’s a whole lot lighter than I’d expect … my Miata is very light for an LS swap because it’s pretty stripped (no AC, PS, power windows, stereo, etc.), and it’s still at 2400 lbs. Most Miata swaps run closer to 2600. The ‘vette is so much bigger, it’s surprising to me you can get it down to that weight.
On the TT setup, I gutted all the factory wiring and rewired the car. The ac box and everything under the dash was removed. Still had carpet but no door panels. The rest of the interior was there as well. That’s as far as I could get it without cutting parts of the car out.
SLOW SEDAN has his down into the 2400lb range with a solid rear end conversion and some extra weight removed.
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grubinski (08-26-2022)
#159
TECH Senior Member
I had forgotten about the aluminum frame and mag cradles. That would make a HUGE difference!