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Carb swap L92

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Old May 17, 2022 | 08:01 PM
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Default Carb swap L92

Hey y’all,

I got a 2014 L94 that I want to carb swap? What do I need to do to the internals? I see DOD and VVT, but I have no clue what it means.
I am using MSD for ignition for now, but I got front cover and cam gear to run distributor later on. It also has lobe for mech fuel pump.

Last edited by 65StepSide; May 19, 2022 at 05:54 AM.
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Old May 17, 2022 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 65StepSide
Hey y’all,

I got a 2014 L92 that I want to carb swap? What do I need to do to the internals? I see DOD and VVT, but I have no clue what it means.
I am using MSD for ignition for now, but I got front cover and cam gear to run distributor later on. It also has lobe for mech fuel pump.
Can you carb swap a GenIV? yes, but dear god why?
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Old May 17, 2022 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 65StepSide
Hey y’all,

I got a 2014 L92 that I want to carb swap? What do I need to do to the internals? I see DOD and VVT, but I have no clue what it means.
I am using MSD for ignition for now, but I got front cover and cam gear to run distributor later on. It also has lobe for mech fuel pump.
L92 wasn’t made in 2014, and never had operational DOD (AFM…same thing) Some early L92’s had the DOD lifters, but it was never operational…not sure why. L92 did have VVT.
For educational purposes here, DOD stands for Displacement On Demand, and is a method of using oil pressure to hydraulically disable 8 of the 16 lifters, turning the engine into a V-4 for fuel mileage purposes. This would only occur at very light load. GM’s stab at better mileage to help meet the EPA requirements, and honestly some folks still give a rip about fuel mileage. I’m sure it would make a sale or two. VVT stands for Variable Valve Timing and is a method of using oil pressure (again) to hydraulically retard or advance the camshaft to aid in low end torque or top end power, whichever the engines computer felt was necessary to help, according to rpm. This technology is very cool to me, but I’m a techy type of performance guy nerd. It works for an all around street cruiser. If your building an all-out max-effort drag car or standing mile engine, VVT is not for you. The first engine I built for my Chevelle had VVT, with an aftermarket Mast Motorsports VVT camshaft. I liked it, but was hypnotized by the HP drug and built the sleeved 434 I have now. I get bored easily with my builds and have to change things, hence the 434 build. Nothing wrong with the aluminum 6liter with VVT at all. It had 1500 miles on it, and I pulled it out.
Many here will rag on you for going carb and distributer with an LS platform, so be ready for the insults. I say build whatever makes you tick. If it’s a carb, do it. If you enjoy the challenges of fuel injection, do it. Pro charged 500 cubic inch, 3500hp Hemi? Do it. To each there own.
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Old May 18, 2022 | 12:01 AM
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:L92 was 2007-8 only. You might want to ask the seller what year it REALLY is.
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Old May 18, 2022 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by theunderlord
Can you carb swap a GenIV? yes, but dear god why?
A carb on a drag race only bracket car is cheaper by far and will make close to/if not the same power. For a street driven car fuel injection no doubt.
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Old May 18, 2022 | 01:33 PM
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My carbed 6.0 ran like a frekin CHAMP!!
I would however stick with the MSD and not worry with a disributor
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Old May 18, 2022 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
A carb on a drag race only bracket car is cheaper by far and will make close to/if not the same power. For a street driven car fuel injection no doubt.
Absolutely agree, for a car you want to reliably start and drive every day, EFI makes the most sense.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
L92 wasn’t made in 2014, and never had operational DOD (AFM…same thing) Some early L92’s had the DOD lifters, but it was never operational…not sure why. L92 did have VVT.
For educational purposes here, DOD stands for Displacement On Demand, and is a method of using oil pressure to hydraulically disable 8 of the 16 lifters, turning the engine into a V-4 for fuel mileage purposes. This would only occur at very light load. GM’s stab at better mileage to help meet the EPA requirements, and honestly some folks still give a rip about fuel mileage. I’m sure it would make a sale or two. VVT stands for Variable Valve Timing and is a method of using oil pressure (again) to hydraulically retard or advance the camshaft to aid in low end torque or top end power, whichever the engines computer felt was necessary to help, according to rpm. This technology is very cool to me, but I’m a techy type of performance guy nerd. It works for an all around street cruiser. If your building an all-out max-effort drag car or standing mile engine, VVT is not for you. The first engine I built for my Chevelle had VVT, with an aftermarket Mast Motorsports VVT camshaft. I liked it, but was hypnotized by the HP drug and built the sleeved 434 I have now. I get bored easily with my builds and have to change things, hence the 434 build. Nothing wrong with the aluminum 6liter with VVT at all. It had 1500 miles on it, and I pulled it out.
Many here will rag on you for going carb and distributer with an LS platform, so be ready for the insults. I say build whatever makes you tick. If it’s a carb, do it. If you enjoy the challenges of fuel injection, do it. Pro charged 500 cubic inch, 3500hp Hemi? Do it. To each there own.
I’m sorry,it is L94 out of a 2014 Denali. I will carburete it and eventually use the distributor with a MSD black box. Thanks for clearing up the DOD and VVT. The VVT will be deleted with the new front cover anyway (the lobe for fuel pump and distributor gear is mounted on the front of the camshaft) Do you have any experience with DOD delete kits? I will need to find a good cam as well, running single plane intake and like for it to be in the 7500 range
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Old May 19, 2022 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by theunderlord
Absolutely agree, for a car you want to reliably start and drive every day, EFI makes the most sense.
It is after all a patina 65 Step Side truck and will not be my daily driver, just to take to town for fun or getting groceries. Would still like to harass some ricers though
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Old May 19, 2022 | 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
:L92 was 2007-8 only. You might want to ask the seller what year it REALLY is.
I am sorry, it is a L94 out of a 2014 Denali
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Old May 19, 2022 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
A carb on a drag race only bracket car is cheaper by far and will make close to/if not the same power. For a street driven car fuel injection no doubt.
No electric fuel pump, no 20lbs wire harness, no fried ecu, better throttle response, for the hell of it, to make it fit a 65 model car, no gas tank relocation etc…. I don’t care about MPG or it being smooth, I can promise you that nothing about a lowered 65 truck is smooth anyway….
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Old May 19, 2022 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 65StepSide
I am sorry, it is a L94 out of a 2014 Denali
Do they even make a carb intake for the Gen 5 engines?

Edit: Looks like the only way is to get a LS3 style carb intake and run intake adapters.

Last edited by Ls7colorado; May 19, 2022 at 06:31 AM.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Ls7colorado
Do they even make a carb intake for the Gen 5 engines?

Edit: Looks like the only way is to get a LS3 style carb intake and run intake adapters.
L94 is a gen4 with 823 rectangle port heads. They were very stout stock, and with a cam and a carb, one could really make some power. 2014 was last year for these. Don’t let the year confuse you with gen4/gen5 stuff. I bought a new 2020, 2500 GMC Savanah work van and it still has a gen4 LS engine. It was the last of them however.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 65StepSide
I’m sorry,it is L94 out of a 2014 Denali. I will carburete it and eventually use the distributor with a MSD black box. Thanks for clearing up the DOD and VVT. The VVT will be deleted with the new front cover anyway (the lobe for fuel pump and distributor gear is mounted on the front of the camshaft) Do you have any experience with DOD delete kits? I will need to find a good cam as well, running single plane intake and like for it to be in the 7500 range
As long as you purchase the DOD delete in complete kit form, you’ll be good. If you go with a Tooley cam, buy his kit, etc. Keep it all together from one manufacturer…makes troubleshooting and service much easier. That engine won’t need much camshaft to make it a screamer. They made a lot of power stock. Over-caming an LS is easy to do. Something in the low 230ish intake and 240ish exhaust duration area will be plenty. Sounds like a cool project!
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Old May 19, 2022 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
L94 is a gen4 with 823 rectangle port heads. They were very stout stock, and with a cam and a carb, one could really make some power. 2014 was last year for these. Don’t let the year confuse you with gen4/gen5 stuff. I bought a new 2020, 2500 GMC Savanah work van and it still has a gen4 LS engine. It was the last of them however.
Gotcha I was thinking all 2014's were DI gen 5's
Im still stuck in the 2000's LOL

In that case I would slap a carb on that baby without a second thought.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 06:13 PM
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Carbs can work good if clean and kept clean. I actually prefer the throttle response of a carb vs the slow reaction time of EFI and even slower if electronic throttle. Many dyno graphs I have seen show a slight power advantage of a carb at top end power. This is strange, because you’d think it would be a restriction. It has to be a restriction or it doesn’t work. But I think the cooling effect of the ventui (pressure drop) and the evap of the fuel provides some cooling EFI does not. Maybe.

Carbs are clean and simple. No spaghetti wiring, no reflashes, and they have worked for like 100 years.

Do it. I am doing two EFI, but I want to do a carb one eventually. Leave the distributor home though.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FormulaBoat
Carbs can work good if clean and kept clean. I actually prefer the throttle response of a carb vs the slow reaction time of EFI and even slower if electronic throttle. Many dyno graphs I have seen show a slight power advantage of a carb at top end power. This is strange, because you’d think it would be a restriction. It has to be a restriction or it doesn’t work. But I think the cooling effect of the ventui (pressure drop) and the evap of the fuel provides some cooling EFI does not. Maybe.

Carbs are clean and simple. No spaghetti wiring, no reflashes, and they have worked for like 100 years.

Do it. I am doing two EFI, but I want to do a carb one eventually. Leave the distributor home though.
You will see more peak power with a carb, unless it’s poorly built/tuned. Early on in the early stages of fuel injection, because of the efficiency I just knew we would see bigger numbers, but it’s just not the case, at least as of now. I remember NASCAR going FI and I said to all my guys, that they would see more power, but they proved me wrong. Hard to beat a carb for peak power numbers, if the carb is right. Now…for power under the curve and driveability…fuel injection all day long.
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