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To meet the goals you have listed I would highly recommend giving Tony a call. You won't achieve these goals with conventional youtube and ls1tech forum build threads or a speed shops cookie cutter "stage X" combo.
You are getting into that realm beyond what most people here do. There are so many reasons to run the rollers, Roller rockers not only improve wipe pattern for bronze guides, they also vastly improve stability when properly sprung. This results in more of the action from the lifter on the lobe being transmitted to the valve. It also allows you to run higher pressure springs for more aggressive cams and higher lift lobes. Both of these are things I forsee for this build.
What you have now is mismatched imo and will leave you underwhelmed and unhappy. Buy once cry once, let Tony take care of you.
I don't know what you see is "mismatched"... I have nothing besides the shortblock and intake manifold decided for the new motor. Valvetrain for the most part will be much of the same. Will need another set of pushrods, but that's a simple call to Manton. The only question is the cam and the head selection. I guarantee the car will go every bit of low to mid 130s on motor, but would more than likely be rpm limited due to the 220s if I stuck with them, even with port work.
I don't know what you see is "mismatched"... I have nothing besides the shortblock and intake manifold decided for the new motor. Valvetrain for the most part will be much of the same. Will need another set of pushrods, but that's a simple call to Manton. The only question is the cam and the head selection. I guarantee the car will go every bit of low to mid 130s on motor, but would more than likely be rpm limited due to the 220s if I stuck with them, even with port work.
that's what I was referring too, the heads you have the 220s would be a mismatch imo. I would do something different, I have the tsp 225s as casts on a 402 and I am pretty top end limited.
Well, while I still plan the new engine out, I finally got this thing back on the road after a 10 month hiatus. Needs tuned still for the new parts, but runs pretty well so far from what my butt dyno remembers haha
Got the car back on the dyno after the heads and intake swap along with all of the other odds and ends.. This mustang is a bit of a D*** kicker. But it made 412/390 last year on motor and around 500 on the 100 shot. This was with the TEA Stage 2 243s (2.04/1.57 ferrea valves), fast 102, ls2 tb... So this time had the TFS 220s (Hollow stem LS3 valves), BTR shaft mount, johnson ST2126lsr's, hi ram with the Shearer fab lid and NX plenum plate, and Katech 103 thottle body. I am pretty happy with the results on motor, and we added a bit more nitrous. This dyno reads pretty spot on at 12-13% lower than my friend's dyno jet, which the car made 470/420 (SAE) on 3 years ago with the same mods... So, by my ricer math, that would put this around 500-510 wheel sae on that dyno.
With that said, I can't wait to get the new motor built for next season. The car as it sits runs phenomenal compared to the old combo. Gets into power a lot quicker and the hi ram just puts on power like crazy at 5k. I really have no doubts that the car with the worked over 220s can add another 30-50 wheel, at least onto where its at now.
Quick little update. The car since I put it back together with this new combo, would turn over a bit odd and just didn't idle like it normally does (and especially not like it should with the added compression). Whenever I would crank it, it sounded like it was doing a compression test. I did a compression check on it, and had 3-4 cylinders at 30 or less psi. I knew at this point I had a pushrod issue.
So I pulled the valve covers off, pulled the shaft mount kit off and started going one by one on my pushrods to make sure I had the right rods in each lifter compared to what I originally measured.. I have to say, as nice as the BTR kit was, it could use some refinement. The shafts need the stud/bolt holes reamed out for clearance imo as you need to remove an exhaust stud just to get the things on or off the pedestal. Which this also made it a real bitch to measure rod length as well on a couple cylinders. So I pulled the shaft kit off and put it aside for now, it may go back onto the new motor, I don't know yet though. I bought a CHE kit and a set of PRW billet rails, rebuilt the rockers with the CHE kit and got to remeasuring the cylinders that I had issues with. I ended up buying 5 more rods from Manton when I found a couple to be 10-20 thou too long. Put those in and changed the oil. Went through the oil to make sure it didn't look like a bass boat and verify it was healthy still. Fired it up and it definitely had its strong idle back, as well as sounding solid when turning it over.
With all of this said, I am not sure if it gave up any power on the dyno. I am not going to put it back on, but I am just curious. I think once the motor was warmed up, it was close to being in the ballpark, but I believe cylinder 2 was still hanging the exhaust valve open as it was the pushrod that was closer to that 20 thou off mark.
Well, while I still plan the new engine out, I finally got this thing back on the road after a 10 month hiatus. Needs tuned still for the new parts, but runs pretty well so far from what my butt dyno remembers haha
Car is in the process of getting torn down for the winter to prepare for the new motor, which is at the machine shop. The Summit Pro LS rods were going to get pushed out another couple months and I lucked out on a set of K1s being available at Summit in TX due to a canceled order.. So snatched those and bought an Eagle crank that Summit had in stock and took everything to the machine shop. In other news, I bought a Holley Terminator System for the car as well to install over the winter as the engine will be out and have plenty of room. Still working over in my head where I would like to mount it though.
Had to put the car away semi early since I broke the mainshaft in the trans (again....for the 3rd time). But, we only had about 2 weeks left of decent weather anyway. So with that breaking, I dropped the entire drivetrain out of the car. The trans will be gone through and replace anything thats bad. Decided also with the trans since the mainshaft needs replaced, to send the gearset out to Liberty to have faceplated. With the rpm I want to turn with this, I do not want there to be any issues with gear changes in the future. The diff will be getting a 3.90 gear as well.
So just collecting pieces and parts while pulling stuff, and selling some things off the car as well. I sold the NX plate setup and some of the nitrous items since the car is getting the Holley and will be setup on a dry kit now controlled by the Terminator.
The heads I decided on as well.. I am keeping the TFS 220s and having them worked over by TEA and the original designer of those heads. We talked about my goals and decided on softening the chambers, working the ports to match the 2" headers that the car will get, and moving to a 2.08" hollow intake valve. We are still working on a cam for the car as well.
Question regarding the block... Since it is an L76 and it was a DOD motor.. What needs done to run the regular cam and lifter setup in it? Just need the towers plugged?
Small update.. Heads were dropped off a couple weeks back to my porter. He did some preliminary flow work on them to see which route he wanted to take.. We decided on a 2.1 intake valve and a 1.60 exhaust valve with the 50° N2O job. Mr Tooley also made his decision on the cam for the car. We talked Sunday and he felt the 25X/27X cam would be too much for my goals and that a 244/266 would do everything I want, while making more power than the current 400+ nitrous cam would make. Apparently he has seen some things with that Spintron he has haha.
So now just a waiting game for the engine to get finished up. Liberty to get the gears back and the trans wrapped up along with the diff. Harness is depinned and just needs loomed back up. Holley needs installed and the abs delete kit needs ordered and installed as well.
Weren't you running stock rockers? I couldve swore the guys at tooley told me to not run the 650 kit with factory rockers. They hooked me up with a shimmed 660 kit instead.
Note: Due to the higher open psi achieved at the recommended install height, this spring is not recommended for daily driving with stock rocker arms as rocker pad or valve tip wear may occur.
Note: Due to the higher open psi achieved at the recommended install height, this spring is not recommended for daily driving with stock rocker arms as rocker pad or valve tip wear may occur.
so for racing it may be fine maybe? I would call and ask their engine guy though just in case. Not the sales reps.
Their engine guy nick called me directly and told me he was not going to send me those springs. This is with their rockers, aggressive 660 lift hyd cam and little to no street driving.
so for racing it may be fine maybe? I would call and ask their engine guy though just in case. Not the sales reps.
Their engine guy nick called me directly and told me he was not going to send me those springs. This is with their rockers, aggressive 660 lift hyd cam and little to no street driving.
I think BTR recommends not to go over 430 open psi on the oem rockers (especially with no bearing upgrade). This is on an LS7 another issue is non roller tip - scrub pressure.
06-21-2022 | 03:55 PM
