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I don’t know if I’m missing something. But I don’t see a crack. I DO see a nick. That might clean up if you bore it .010 over. Otherwise, if there is a crack, you are looking at a sleeve - at least for that one cylinder.
Pit or crack? That is the question….did you take it to a machine shop and get their honest opinion……how much $$$ to get that hole resleeved?……..how much to get it magnafluxed and confirn its an actual crack?? Honestly if its just a pitt i would dingleball/3 stone hone it and put new rings on it and send it…..if funds dont allow for a re-sleeve….and for the cost of a re-sleeve youd be better off just picking up an iron 6.0 and if you need that extra .2 litre have it bored .065 over and put the 6.2 rotating assembly in it…….personally id send it if its confirmed only to be a pitt, and while your riding on the pitted motor i would be getting an iron 6.0 ready to drop into place rather it be stock 4.00” bore or a iron LS3 with the block being bored to 4.065”…….you might get lucky scouring craigslist or facebook market place and be able to just score a bare 6.0 iron block……i found a dissasembled LQ4 short block on craigslist about 5 yrs ago for $500…..the crank was still good and so were the bores but i had it bored .030 over and bought some gen4 rods on ebay and .030 over flat top LS2 pistons from there as well…scored a set of 823 square port heads and a LS3 factory intake and cam motion stage 3 LS3 cam 220/230 duration……ran that for about a year until the bug bit me again and i added a 2.45” pullied LSA supercharger……and that was a blast….but the bug bit again……now im turning that 370” into a 408” stroker…..fun fun fun Now im up for cam suggestions on a LSA supercharged 408 stroker with built 4l65e and 3.42 posi rear……im at a dead stop at the moment untill i can decide on a streetable cam that makes enough vacuum to operate my brake booster with no hiccups…..i know originally when the 370” was N/A with an ASA cam the brakes were nonexistent!!!!
Pit or crack? That is the question….did you take it to a machine shop and get their honest opinion……how much $$$ to get that hole resleeved?……..how much to get it magnafluxed and confirn its an actual crack?? Honestly if its just a pitt i would dingleball/3 stone hone it and put new rings on it and send it…..if funds dont allow for a re-sleeve….and for the cost of a re-sleeve youd be better off just picking up an iron 6.0 and if you need that extra .2 litre have it bored .065 over and put the 6.2 rotating assembly in it…….personally id send it if its confirmed only to be a pitt, and while your riding on the pitted motor i would be getting an iron 6.0 ready to drop into place rather it be stock 4.00” bore or a iron LS3 with the block being bored to 4.065”…….you might get lucky scouring craigslist or facebook market place and be able to just score a bare 6.0 iron block……i found a dissasembled LQ4 short block on craigslist about 5 yrs ago for $500…..the crank was still good and so were the bores but i had it bored .030 over and bought some gen4 rods on ebay and .030 over flat top LS2 pistons from there as well…scored a set of 823 square port heads and a LS3 factory intake and cam motion stage 3 LS3 cam 220/230 duration……ran that for about a year until the bug bit me again and i added a 2.45” pullied LSA supercharger……and that was a blast….but the bug bit again……now im turning that 370” into a 408” stroker…..fun fun fun Now im up for cam suggestions on a LSA supercharged 408 stroker with built 4l65e and 3.42 posi rear……im at a dead stop at the moment untill i can decide on a streetable cam that makes enough vacuum to operate my brake booster with no hiccups…..i know originally when the 370” was N/A with an ASA cam the brakes were nonexistent!!!!
I don't want to alarm you but I think a beaver has been chewing on your hood reinforcement ribs.
Also forget the idea of vacuum operated brake booster. Hydroboost all the way.
I had already gave it a good hone, and just a re-ring was my plan. I spoke with one machine shop today, and they quoted me 250 for a new sleeve instal plus another 500 of block prep after that including a deck and torque plate hone. I think 750 is doable but it’s approaching being cost prohibitive vs just finding a good 6.0 short block. But at this point, my plan is to get the block to the machine shop, I’ll have it magnafluxed and pressure tested. If that checks out, I’ll just run it with the pit. If it needs a sleeve, I’ll just sell the block and keep the top end.
I would look into boring before sleeving. You can’t really bore an LS3 much - about .020 max. But if you can clean this up by boring it .020 or (preferably) .010, this would be the way to go. Unless, of course, the cylinder is cracked.
I would look into boring before sleeving. You can’t really bore an LS3 much - about .020 max. But if you can clean this up by boring it .020 or (preferably) .010, this would be the way to go. Unless, of course, the cylinder is cracked.
You might be surprised at how much junk will clean up at a .010" overbore....
You might be surprised at how much junk will clean up at a .010" overbore....
Truth! I’ve ball honed many a cylinder that looked like it was ready for scrap…to the naked eye of course, not with a dial bore gauge…and made them look better than new. A .010 overbore will clean up all kinds of mess.
What do you make of this rod bearing? This is from the cylinder that dropped a valve seat. Is it safe to say that the connecting rod was knocked out of round?
OP here,
I bought a set of Hastings rings for this engine that I thought were non file fit. I checked and the top ring has .017 ring gap and the second ring has .017 ring gap. I’m assuming that I should open them up? This is going to be an NA motor. What should I set them at? .020/.025?
OP here,
I bought a set of Hastings rings for this engine that I thought were non file fit. I checked and the top ring has .017 ring gap and the second ring has .017 ring gap. I’m assuming that I should open them up? This is going to be an NA motor. What should I set them at? .020/.025?
.017 top ring on a N/A engine at 4.070 isn’t terrible. How much compression are you gonna run here? Any N2O in your future?
compression will be between 10.5-1 and 10.75-1. No N20 for me
10-4, I’d go .017 top…if all 8 top rings read .017…check them all first, and .019 second ring. If you need to go .018 top to make them all equal, then go .020 second. Take your time, be patient, and leave all the rings in their cylinder to avoid mixing anything up.
10-4, I’d go .017 top…if all 8 top rings read .017…check them all first, and .019 second ring. If you need to go .018 top to make them all equal, then go .020 second. Take your time, be patient, and leave all the rings in their cylinder to avoid mixing anything up.
thank you for the advice, I believe that’s what I’m going to do. Do you happen to work for Hastings? Ironically I reached out to them and they told me the exact same thing.haha
thank you for the advice, I believe that’s what I’m going to do. Do you happen to work for Hastings? Ironically I reached out to them and they told me the exact same thing.haha
I do not, just been around performance stuff for 30+ years. I have spoke to a couple of their engineers however, back before they got bought out.
Progress has been slow, it took some time to get my heads back from the machine shop and to get the crank polished. But I got my rings gapped and the short block all assembled now. Thanks for everyone’s help! I’ll probably put they heads on tomorrow and measure for pushrods
07-12-2023, 06:26 PM
