Utinator

That sounds awesome, but I'm a cheap @$$. I would rather max out a stock block with stock sleeves. I'm really learning toward building a 428 cu in. (4.065 bore/4.125" crank). That won't happen this year though. Maybe next year.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

If the sleeves aren't long enough for long term reliability, you may save now, but spend more in the long term. Also, there are 4.100" stroke cranks out there that are "supposed" to be better for oil consumption. Scoggin Dickey sells them, Callies 4.100" stroke. YMMV.....

Double06

If you do go with a stroker crank talk to the piston company and make sure they are aware of your sleeve length so they can design a piston with the correct taper. You would be surprised how much of the piston pops out the bottom of the sleeve on a 4.125 stroke on a short deck (about 3/8 of an inch or more).

rkupon1

iTrader: (3)

You ll regret not building it right when it starts consuming oil from a bad stroker build.

C5_Pete

iTrader: (8)

you have my attention…

Mickyinks

I built a 4.185 x 4.125 darton wet sleeve ls2 block. It would twist the block and pop head gaskets, id have to use motor plates to stop it from doing that. Will try using it again when the motor goes in my ski boat. due to needing motor plates in the boat

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I don’t doubt it Mick. Wet sleeving removes a lot of material. So much material that the block flexing caused the sleeves to move, which caused countless internal water leaks, along with the decks binding…which popped head gaskets. I’ve even seen cracked oil pans in wet sleeved builds. Dry sleeving is much, much stronger.

Mickyinks

when i do build it for the boat ill use front, mid and rear motor plates and to put even more rigidity into it ill half fill coolant passages, even 3/4 wouldnt hurt seeing tho its sucking cool water directly from the lake for coolant

Utinator

Yeah, I was originally thinking about using the K1 4.1" crank. It can make a 426-427 CID motor. There just aren't many piston options in that size crank. I'd probably have to order custom pistons from JE for that build. Wiseco makes some for the 4.1" crank, but not for the stock bore. Once you bore the block .005" over, it costs more than the custom JE pistons. Either way, it costs more than a 415 CID, and I'm not sure it would make much more power with stock LS3 heads and intake.

Saber-1

I’m going with a 454 DART 31867112 block that has extended .375 barrels for full capture. Sure, it will likely only bring 620~650 hp +/- but I’m more interested in low rev., and massive torque across the band. I’ll likely never see more than 5000~. For my style of driving, that’s plenty of tour-mod cruising. 🤷‍♂️