Milky Oil- What do you think
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Milky Oil- What do you think Ok..so i have a fairly new build that i cut a hole in the hood for a a vortech supercharger. The hold was right next to the oil fill on the valve cover. It rained.
The next time i went to start i noticed the cap was off and noticed froth in valve cover. Drained oil and it was milky. Removed the oil filter drained and replaced oil. Ran for a while. Drained oil...milky again. Drained and replaced again. Ran for 5 minutes and drained milky again. Checked thr combustion gasses to check head and the solution did not turn yellow. What are you thoughts. The car does have smoke after about 1 minute of running but its not like steam smoke.
The ls3 intake i am using was used. The guy i bgught if off said he ported it. I did use new gaskets though. Could he have ruined it.
Additionally when I assembled it I put the driver side head on the passenger side on driver side..what i understand however the heads are not sode dependent. The temp sensor is not reading hot either.
what are your thoughts of what it could be or what should i test next.
1. Water still in engine from when it rained and fill hole was open.
2. Bad intake
3. Head gasket problem (holes not right from head install)
thanks
The next time i went to start i noticed the cap was off and noticed froth in valve cover. Drained oil and it was milky. Removed the oil filter drained and replaced oil. Ran for a while. Drained oil...milky again. Drained and replaced again. Ran for 5 minutes and drained milky again. Checked thr combustion gasses to check head and the solution did not turn yellow. What are you thoughts. The car does have smoke after about 1 minute of running but its not like steam smoke.
The ls3 intake i am using was used. The guy i bgught if off said he ported it. I did use new gaskets though. Could he have ruined it.
Additionally when I assembled it I put the driver side head on the passenger side on driver side..what i understand however the heads are not sode dependent. The temp sensor is not reading hot either.
what are your thoughts of what it could be or what should i test next.
1. Water still in engine from when it rained and fill hole was open.
2. Bad intake
3. Head gasket problem (holes not right from head install)
thanks
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From: Bossier City, Louisiana
Short engine run times will not get the engine hot enough to boil out excess moisture from the oil. This will take thirty minutes, maybe more depending how much is in there.
And I'm puzzled. Water would need to go uphill on my Gen 4 engine for rain to make it into the oil fill hole. As you mention, I'm thinkin' head gasket leak.
Rick
And I'm puzzled. Water would need to go uphill on my Gen 4 engine for rain to make it into the oil fill hole. As you mention, I'm thinkin' head gasket leak.
Rick
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So..the oil fill cap was left off and there was a hole cut in hood so free access for rain water directly into the valve cover.
My system uses an expansion tank. No direct cap for the radiator. I did the exhaust gas test from the expantion tank...i did not get any color change
My system uses an expansion tank. No direct cap for the radiator. I did the exhaust gas test from the expantion tank...i did not get any color change
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There isn't any water in the intake on LS based engines.
Back in the day we used to check for head gaskets leaks and cracked cylinder heads was to warm up engine. Then put the radiator pressure tester on the radiator and let it set over night. Then pull the plugs in the morning and see if you find any water
Back in the day we used to check for head gaskets leaks and cracked cylinder heads was to warm up engine. Then put the radiator pressure tester on the radiator and let it set over night. Then pull the plugs in the morning and see if you find any water
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Not a bad intake. There's no coolant there. Even if there was, it's not connected to the crankcase in any way. It would have to get in through the valley cover or something. Pretty effffing far-fetched.
Not likely to be a head gasket. Look at one carefully and consider the likelihood of a leak connecting the water jacket to a drainback hole (the only place in the HG that has oil), while the places that have REAL pressure on the gasket (combustion) still seal properly. Pretty effffing far-fetched.
No more than a few ounces of old oil remain in an engine during an oil change. Only way you could change the oil and still have enough water to color new oil is, if all the water didn't get drained out; such as, if there was liquid unmixed water laying in the bottom of the pan. One would think then though, that it would largely drain out naturally, if perhaps not completely.
How long of running did it take for the "milky" condition to reappear?
A cracked head can easily leak coolant into the oil without having a combustion leak. Consider the infamous 4.8 / 5.3 Castech heads. That would be my first guess, assuming that the presence of remaining rainwater has been ruled out.
Not likely to be a head gasket. Look at one carefully and consider the likelihood of a leak connecting the water jacket to a drainback hole (the only place in the HG that has oil), while the places that have REAL pressure on the gasket (combustion) still seal properly. Pretty effffing far-fetched.
No more than a few ounces of old oil remain in an engine during an oil change. Only way you could change the oil and still have enough water to color new oil is, if all the water didn't get drained out; such as, if there was liquid unmixed water laying in the bottom of the pan. One would think then though, that it would largely drain out naturally, if perhaps not completely.
How long of running did it take for the "milky" condition to reappear?
A cracked head can easily leak coolant into the oil without having a combustion leak. Consider the infamous 4.8 / 5.3 Castech heads. That would be my first guess, assuming that the presence of remaining rainwater has been ruled out.
One key question I don't see being asked-How much rain??? Was it a monsoon, or a 1/4"?? If it was OK before the rain, it would be one Helluva coincidence that the oil was contaminated just because you parked it. Key is how much rain? I have to ask WHY the oil fill cap was left off the motor in the first place??
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Thanks guys for all your input so the old cap was off because I had the removed it to fill it with oil and it was hard to put back on because it's right next to a supercharger. The centrifical type. I had just finished cutting open the hood so it would close as the supercharger sticks out of the hood. It did rain significantly over a period of 2 days or so. I really did not pay it any until a few days after the rain I realized that I did not cap the oil fill.
Today I want to add and pull the intake just to see and you're right there's really nowhere that water would be introduced. I drained out all the oil it still has an oily consistency it's just a milky looking brown and in the valve cover you still see it mixed.
It just perplexes me that prior to the rain honestly I don't even know if it was mixing then Or it could be that I just noticed that it was mixing and there's something wrong with the block or the head. Prior to the build though I did have the head and the block at the machine shop. I would think that they would have told me if either one had a problem. Best case scenario I would hope that there was residual water still in the engine and it's still mixing but I've spent a few $100 now just changing oil and filters. When I drained it before I simply use the drain plug. I guess I could pull the Pan completely to ensure there's nothing left in the bottom but even with that of I'm putting 56 qt of oil in there with just a little bit that's left in the bottom of the Pan I wouldn't expect it to have that much water but I could be wrong
Today I want to add and pull the intake just to see and you're right there's really nowhere that water would be introduced. I drained out all the oil it still has an oily consistency it's just a milky looking brown and in the valve cover you still see it mixed.
It just perplexes me that prior to the rain honestly I don't even know if it was mixing then Or it could be that I just noticed that it was mixing and there's something wrong with the block or the head. Prior to the build though I did have the head and the block at the machine shop. I would think that they would have told me if either one had a problem. Best case scenario I would hope that there was residual water still in the engine and it's still mixing but I've spent a few $100 now just changing oil and filters. When I drained it before I simply use the drain plug. I guess I could pull the Pan completely to ensure there's nothing left in the bottom but even with that of I'm putting 56 qt of oil in there with just a little bit that's left in the bottom of the Pan I wouldn't expect it to have that much water but I could be wrong
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Red944, do you have any pics of the milky oil? I’m asking because oil in a new build picks up everything and the metallics in it will sometimes look milky if the engine wasn’t super clean inside when put together. Takes a couple changes to clean it all out sometimes, as it’s debris that’s finer than the filter can catch. I’m playing devils advocate here obviously. Now if your looking at a milkshake situation there, then you’ve probably got coolant getting in somewhere, after you’ve changed the oil a couple times already. Water/coolant is heavier than oil and will settle on the bottom of the pan after time.
Do a pressure test on the cooling system to either find or eliminate a cracked head or headgasket sealing issue, for peace of mind.
Do a pressure test on the cooling system to either find or eliminate a cracked head or headgasket sealing issue, for peace of mind.
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Yes I could get pics but it truly brown. The first change was a little more "watery brown" than the recent which was milky not sludgy and still had a grease feel. I truly hate to pull the heads off this.
Everything thing was new when built. The heads were machined..new valves ...shaved.. cylinders bored to new pistons...everything. The head gaskets were new as well.
Everything thing was new when built. The heads were machined..new valves ...shaved.. cylinders bored to new pistons...everything. The head gaskets were new as well.
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Not likely to be a head gasket. Look at one carefully and consider the likelihood of a leak connecting the water jacket to a drainback hole (the only place in the HG that has oil), while the places that have REAL pressure on the gasket (combustion) still seal properly. Pretty effffing far-fetched.
It hardly matters how much rainwater got in it. It's not like, only xx% of it comes out when you drain it. Either you drained it, or you didn't. Either it was empty, or it wasn't. Either whatever was in there is now gone, or it's still there. Did you REALLY drain ALL the fluid out of the pan? If so, it could have been TOTALLY FULL of rainwater, and it would now all be GONE. If water keeps reappearing, you have something else going on.
Is the coolant level going down while all this is going on?
"The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is most likely to be the right one". Concentrate on EVERY word in that truism, with particular emphasis on "simplest" (least number of odd convolutions), "all" (as in, leaves no observed fact unaccounted for), "most likely" (no guarantees that the "simplest" explanation HAS TO be right, but only that that's the best place to start looking).
It can STILL be cracked heads (the most likely "explanation") or a cracked block (not AS likely, but still FAR more likely than a head gasket). Pressure testing of the cooling system will show that up immediately. Drain the motor, pop the valve covers, cap off the rad & heater hose ports, rig up a way to apply air pressure to some one of the ports, put 100 psi to it, find the leak.
Logic. Common sense. Mental orderliness. Lack of panic. No jumping to illogical "conclusions" unsupported by reality. No "maybe it's this maybe it's that". Troubleshoot. Gather information. Isolate and accurately identify The Problem.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/Xyho3k_Vc...YkVWuNJFrZsInq
Here's a link to the car running it runs pretty good seems very strong as vacuum but as you can see it's smoking it starts to smoke after running aboutwo minutes or so.
The smoke doesn't seem like head gasket smoke it seems more of exhaust smoke it doesn't have that same smell as head gasket it seems burnt.
I have ordered a coolant coolant system tester just to see if that's my problem. It just doesn't make any sense to me. There is No oil in the water just water in the oil. I just changed the temperature sensor and the temperatures seem to run okay and as I mentioned I checked the combustion gases and there are none. You may be right it could be a cracked head or block. The engine was purchased from a salvage yard and I had it taken to a machine shop which they checked over the block did a valve job board the cylinder's tested my pistons that I purchased for it. I brought it home and assembled it. I guess my concern would be I would think that the machine shop would check for a crack block and a crackhead while doing the work. I've spent a lot of time money and effort in putting this engine together and into the car. So to stare at the possibility of a cracked head and an engine is a lot of money down the drain and also time. Just hoping there's another possibility.
Here's a link to the car running it runs pretty good seems very strong as vacuum but as you can see it's smoking it starts to smoke after running aboutwo minutes or so.
The smoke doesn't seem like head gasket smoke it seems more of exhaust smoke it doesn't have that same smell as head gasket it seems burnt.
I have ordered a coolant coolant system tester just to see if that's my problem. It just doesn't make any sense to me. There is No oil in the water just water in the oil. I just changed the temperature sensor and the temperatures seem to run okay and as I mentioned I checked the combustion gases and there are none. You may be right it could be a cracked head or block. The engine was purchased from a salvage yard and I had it taken to a machine shop which they checked over the block did a valve job board the cylinder's tested my pistons that I purchased for it. I brought it home and assembled it. I guess my concern would be I would think that the machine shop would check for a crack block and a crackhead while doing the work. I've spent a lot of time money and effort in putting this engine together and into the car. So to stare at the possibility of a cracked head and an engine is a lot of money down the drain and also time. Just hoping there's another possibility.
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There is No oil in the water just water in the oil.
Just hoping
We all do. Very sentimental thought. Unfortunately, engine parts usually respond only very minimally to "hope", if at all.If indeed your Problem is a cooling system –> crankcase leeeeeeek, then pressure testing, whether by way of "kit" or a well-improvised DIY, will expose it quickly. It's the best thing you can do for yourself right now.
Of course. Why is that a surprise? The crankcase NEVER has more pressure in it than the cooling system does; therefore if there's a leeeeek anywhere between those 2, fluids will ONLY go one way.
Of course. We all do. Very sentimental thought. Unfortunately, engine parts usually respond only very minimally to "hope", if at all.
If indeed your Problem is a cooling system –> crankcase leeeeeeek, then pressure testing, whether by way of "kit" or a well-improvised DIY, will expose it quickly. It's the best thing you can do for yourself right now.
Of course.
We all do. Very sentimental thought. Unfortunately, engine parts usually respond only very minimally to "hope", if at all.If indeed your Problem is a cooling system –> crankcase leeeeeeek, then pressure testing, whether by way of "kit" or a well-improvised DIY, will expose it quickly. It's the best thing you can do for yourself right now.