LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

There definitely are markings to denote which side goes where. I would check to be sure, yes.

Billh1961

Ok great tear it down again. Ugg. Ok i’m about to give up on this project. I turned wrenches and many other mechanical jobs all my life. But this was supposed to be a bucket list build.
If this was just a fresh in up rebuild stock maybe it would have been easier. But heads and block have been milled and cylinders bored. So now it’s requiring a ton of technical stuff i thought i could handle. Wish i had a friend or neighbor that could help. What a bummer!
Now I'm checking pushrod length and getting 8.75 * .050 = .4375 + 6.80 checker length 7.2375 + .060 ls7 preload .060 = 7.30 pushrods. I guess the new stock 7.4 pushrods are not going to work. I cant find correct 7.30 pushrods. Could i have done this wrong also.
I can see the intake is on the base circle.

I have never given up before.
I’m probably going to either have a shop finish building this, cant imagine what that will cost? or sell this and buy crate motor.

One bummed old guy! Thanks for the help everyone has given!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Negative. Rod bearings go either way. There is no top or bottom on a sbc or LS rod bearing…same bearings btw. The main bearings matter of course, but the rods do not. Don’t listen to your friend. If you need technical advice from an expert, PM me. I’ll shoot you straight. I’ve helped many, many on here assemble their engines correctly here via PM or phone. You can absolutely do this yourself.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Is that specific to certain bearings? Because my ACL rod bearings were definitely marked upper and lower:

KCS

iTrader: (20)

With stock cranks, it doesn’t matter. It does matter with aftermarket cranks though.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

In your case, yes because the upper is a .001 and the bottom is std. When half-shelling rod bearings like this to find a tedious clearance number, the standard size always goes in the cap, while the over/under goes in the beam side.

Billh1961

Mine i remember not having anything like that, i would have noticed.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Just to check for sure, but you made sure to put the chamfered side of the bearings towards the crank, correct?

Billh1961

So all the bearings were identical from what i remember. Here is a pic of same bearings. I just put them in where the tang fit.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Your good Bill.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Could you elaborate on that techniq?

I asked some other builders and was told it didn't matter that much as long as you put them all the same way throughout the engine.

Is it the same on the Mains do you put the standard on the block side or the cap side.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Same with half-shelling mains also, std bearing on the cap, and odd size goes in block. I don’t really have a science to explain here, other than it’s simply what the bearing manufactures tell you to do. I’ve never asked someone smarter than me as to the whys here…I believe I will phone a friend here…you have triggered my interest on the subject of placement.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Thank you! I am by no means an expert. So If I was told wrong, I would like to at least know why so I can understand. Appreciate the help, not just for myself but the community as a whole.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Some builders prefer to put the thicker shell on the side that will see more load.

Billh1961

Ok I finally finished the rebuild! Work schedule and 120 degree heat here in Vegas, Uggg! I oil primed the engine before startup and it fired up first try! Wow! My first build! Runs great kind of...

Recap
New pistons, rings, bearings etc. And DOD-AFM Delete kit - New stock GM Cam single bolt, ICT Billet Valley cover, Melling M365 oil pump suggested by Michigan MS and pickup tube o-ring, LS7 Lifters, Cam shaft plate, Replaced the oil pressure relief valve, (should I have plugged it instead?). Deleted DOD-AFM using Diablo sport I3 tuner. Engine runs great. Seems to have an idle surge. But problem I'm having is, the oil pressure drops real low when warmed up. 20-40psi cold then sitting at traffic light drops closer and closer toward 0. Never has hit 0 yet but maybe 5psi on the cluster gauge. Don't have a mechanical gauge.
When I did the rebuild I thought I researched oil pumps, but guess I didn't. Could it be the Melling M365 pump?
I used Lucas 30w oil breakin oil and AC Delco pf48 filter. Drove it maybe 50 miles so far drained oil and replaced again same oil but tried a STP Extended Life Oil Filter S10060XL. No change still low oil pressure when warmed up driving. Google search turns up tons of could be's! Oil pump, pickup tube ring, plug towers with revits, oil pressure sending unit, etc.

You guys have helped me so much! Got me out of the dumps when the going got ruff! I almost ditched the project!

Now I need help on this.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Should be the correct oil pump. What were your bearing clearance?

You can try blocking off the plug in the pan to see if that helps.

What weight oil are you running?

vegas_ss

I had similar low oil pressure when warm... see the link for what I found. My oil pressure would rise with RPMs but was probably around 10psi warm idle. After the cam bearing swap with 10-40w hot idle is ~30psi @ 220* oil temp. This is with johnson 2110r lifters which I've read several posts claiming ~ 5-10psi pressure drop

Low oil pressure for me was..

Billh1961

Lucas break in 30w oil
I cant find where i wrote down clearances, but seams i remember .0019. I only remember they were in spec when i checked. Ive research so much now i dont remember what was mine or research. Ugg. I wrote them done and cant find it.
I did install a brand new crank and the machine shop that balanced the engine supplied the bearings.

Oh no, cam bearings!!!??? This would mean r&r engine tearing it down again correct? I dont think i can do it. Ugg.

I installed Dura-Bond CH25 bearings

Could i run a different wt oil?
plugging the oil pressure relief valve? How would this help my hot idle oil pressure? Trying to understand this is all!

Thank you guys for the help.

vegas_ss

Should use a mechanical gauge to verify oil pressure.

Some common reasons I have seen for low oil pressure (in order of difficulty)

- Oil and oil filter... try a WIX filter and 20/50w (or 15/50w oil)
- Valley cover O rings... did you use them or block off the oil passages in the towers?
- O ring for the oil pickup tube
- Oil pump pressure relief spring
- Cam retaining plate
- Cam bearings (or other bearing clearances)

Dura-Bond cam bearings was what the machine shop ended up using that solved my oil pressure problems. Not sure what exact part number though. He did tell me that one block he setup with cam bearings and verified with a cam he uses in his shop was picked up by the customer who used his own comp cam. When installed he wasn't able to rotate the cam very easily while the shop cam spun freely... swapped the cam bearings from dura-bond to cleveite and resolved the issue.

I think special attention is needed with cam/cam bearing choice to verify clearances and each journal may be a little different.

Only relating what my experience was and really can't provide any more insight on how to measure or verify cam bearing clearances. I would start with a mechanical oil pressure gauge and go from there.

Billh1961

So run lucas break in oil 20/50