How do these cylinders look? L76 disassembled
A dingleberry hone only works well if the cyls are straight and round. A stone hone will do a better job of fixing very slightly out-of-round and not-straight walls butt still can only do just so much. Merely impressing pretty scratch marks on twisted metal doesn't make it into a good "cylinder". That block is altogether too far gone for honing, and me personally, I'd find another core before I'd spend even the first penny on boring that POS. It's been SERIOUSLY abused, for A LONG time. It's SMOKED. Not a good core to sink money into no matter what. There's better in scrapyards just waiting to get melted down.
That motor is one of the most tore up ones I've ever seen. I've seen ALOTTA blocks with worn bores butt I've never seen one with piston grooves that deep at the bottom, or big deep grooves in the middle somewhere, or really even, that much vertical scratching like somebody threw sand in the throttles. It has LOTS of out-of-round places in the cyls as well, probably from repeated severe overheating. Even that wear up at the top, looks like what we all used to blame on the Powerglide, butt in retrospect was probably actually that old 2-bbl carb they used on everything back in the 283 day. I've NEVER seen a deep step like that in a block that had EFI on top of it. I'd expect that it'll smoke and blowby RUTHLESSLY.
Honestly, if I were in his situation, I'd just look for a car I could rent for a month or 2. Hell, just buy some hooptie from the local we-tote-the-note scammer, pay a note or 2, and sell it when he's done with it for 75% of the down payment. He's gonna spend the same amount of money that he could use that way, on this POS he's got, plus however much work, plus whatever chance that it doesn't even work at all, just to end up with ... in the best possible case and if he's lucky and his plan works the best it can ... a POS, that he's just gonna tear down and throw away all the stuff he just bought to build this "stroker" when he wins the lottery or his rich aunt dies or whatever it is that he has scheduled to make him wealthy in a month or 2. And THE BEST CASE is, the product is a POS; ALL the other possibilities are DOWNHILL from there. All the "but I've gotta get to work" in the world doesn't set aside the common sense of, I've got to find a way to get to work; I have no working car, all I have is this POS; what's the cheeeeeeepest, least labor, lowest risk way I can find to get from where I am (point A: f***ed out non-running in-pieces POS) to where I need to be (point B: on time at work), given what I have on hand, to get to work. Which messing with that steaming POS in all those pics, is most definitely NOT.
Butt, d00d doesn't want to hear it, and is gonna do what he's determined to do. In the end, it's his vehicle and his money, he can do whatever he wants with it, and he doesn't have to listen to any of us, or to common sense. It's his right of course to do it, although that doesn't make what he's doing the "right" thing to do. Best of luck to him. He's gonna be needing it. I see no point in inflicting further reality on him.
Last edited by RB04Av; Aug 25, 2024 at 06:40 PM.

Last edited by grinder11; Aug 26, 2024 at 07:54 AM.

I have a spare in West, Tx family storage and if I really need it I will buy one of the many on marketplace before driving out there as I was just there a month ago.
I think he is really upset that I'm doing it for fun and just to see what happens. It wasn't smoking before so definitely won't smoke now if I had to guess. Do you want to make an online wager of how long it will last? I bet I can get 10,000 miles out of it. Although it had a slight misfire when cold it still ran like hellLast edited by Guy with a Chevy; Aug 25, 2024 at 10:28 PM.

I'm not upset about anything. My truck runs fine.
If you ask for advice and don't take it, well, that's completely up to you. "Advice" is different from "cheerlead" which seems to be what you're looking for. That would not be me.
As I said, good luck. That's about the only thing on your side in this matter.

Isn't that what I just said?
I'm not upset about anything. My truck runs fine.
If you ask for advice and don't take it, well, that's completely up to you. "Advice" is different from "cheerlead" which seems to be what you're looking for. That would not be me.
As I said, good luck. That's about the only thing on your side in this matter.

Butt also as said, it's your vehicle, your money, your labor, your time, and your risk. You can do what you like, and you don't require the approval or agreement of me or anyone else. Also as said, it seems like you're looking for cheerleading, which is to say, being told against all evidence to the contrary that you're making a wise decision and your block is perfectly good and you're gonna end up with success, not facts or advice or common sense; and I'm not a cheerleader. Nor are most of the other people on here with knowledge and experience. And that's OK; we're not obligated to give you what you want, any more than you're obligated to do what we advise. You're free to ignore sound advice and plow straight ahead into disaster. Nobody is insulting you (yet), only telling you that your plan is NOT A Good Idea; and giving you all the reasons WHY. Even offering an alternative "plan" that addresses your stated goal, found here:
We have a saying... "My good judgment is the result of my experience. Unfortunately my experience is the result of my bad judgment." Looks like you're about to get some ... experience.
Have a wonderful day! And good luck with acquiring your experience.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Iron-liner aluminum blocks like the L76 don't have enough meat in the liner to do any meaningful boring.
If you have the spare block in storage, I would go get and use it.
You would be wasting money to try to make this one usable.
If that's what you want to do, have at it, but everyone who posted here tried to tell you what I say here.
I'm not in any way insulting or ridiculing you here, just giving common sense info.
Iron-liner aluminum blocks like the L76 don't have enough meat in the liner to do any meaningful boring.
If you have the spare block in storage, I would go get and use it.
You would be wasting money to try to make this one usable.
If that's what you want to do, have at it, but everyone who posted here tried to tell you what I say here.
I'm not in any way insulting or ridiculing you here, just giving common sense info.
Guy with a Chevy, I don’t fault you here in attempting this. Heck I wish more young folks would find the fortitude to attempt stuff like this, and learn as much as possible. Your doing exactly what I was doing at a young age before I jumped in headfirst and went into the business…my passion for the internal combustion engine took me a long way and I ultimately found myself involved with elite individuals doing testing and R&D for Cup teams. I must tell you sir, from much experience here, that you need to get that block to a shop to do this correctly. Experimenting with a hurt block at home, with a drill operated stone hone and a dial bore gauge is one thing, if your looking for knowledge. But if your sincerely looking to do a repair here and have a running engine, without a torque plate and the right equipment….your basically just guessing. Again, I applaud your efforts, but you’ll likely have 8 different sized cylinders with a lot of taper in them if you keep going. That radial ring in that one picture is something that won’t come out with a hone…at least not with a hand hone anyway.
At the end of the day, if you get tired of fooling with this endeavor, or if a shop tells you the block is trash, PM me. I’ll buy it from you for sleeving.
Will be posting a separate thread in the engine section hoping somebody has ran into this before. I did read something about the ISS needing replacement so I checked my log for ISS speed and of course nothing. Going to try to sort out some transmission PIDS and check what else may not be working.
Fluid is still bright pink and all the connections seemed up to par. TCM fuse still intact. As for the lower oil pressure not sure where I could have went wrong besides the fact that I did reuse all the bearings and they do not crush the same the second go around. I remember removing the valley cover with one of the tower o-rings falling into the valley where I recovered it upon disassembly. I probably didn't take as much care as needed to ensure that those o-rings didn't come out of place during install I am just unsure of how that would affect oil pressure besides negatively. I plan to pull some oil this evening when it cools down to see if it looks like glitter. The clip below was made right before the code posted, no smoke.
I put spaces in this post in between my paragraphs and this site continues to take out all the breaks that's why I don't ever put much effort into writing here. Half the time it loses what I type when trying to upload really makes no sense...
Kinda weird considering I have had that thing running fine no issues for a few months then all of a sudden after reinstalling the engine an issue. Must check that further along with the oil pressure which can wait a day or 2.
12-1500rpm produces near 40 so I feel safe with it idling at 20psi as long as it doesn't continue to drop. It's interesting to see with HP tuners how timing affects oil pressure by a small margin. More load induced by higher timing steals a bit of pressure I assume because of the lifter pump up behavior?
One more thing to add is unlike all the other people here that have honed their cylinders and disappeared to never speak again of the results I will actually tell with all honesty how things go. Definitely an interesting truck XD
I have it wired like number two in the diagram sort of.










