When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Started yesterday morning and had the block out on a table all by hand about 7pm with maybe 4 15min breaks. Dropping the crank from the bottom was not fun with the limited room from not removing trans.
Going to edit the photos sometime this morning just posting off the phone while I have time
Taking this block to get honed .005 over and really hoping the damage isn't that deep. Anyways this is what it looks like after flooring it everywhere for 2 years on a so called 90k block now at about 130k
Last edited by Guy with a Chevy; 08-19-2024 at 08:13 AM.
Reason: Added photos
That's smoked pretty hard. Looks like it needs to be bored. Which "honing" .005" is halfway to the first bore step anyway. Also looks like it's been run without an air filter and has detonated egregiously and maybe sat around with water in the cyls for awhile. In short, MESSED UP, with a capital F.
Hope you haven't purchased pistons yet...
That first one may not clean up at .005 , depends on how much wear is already there. The shadowing also indicates some out of round on the other cylinders.
Until you get it measured to see where its currently at, you won't know what it will take to clean it up. If the block is .002 - .003 out of round, it will never fully clean up at .005 and that assuming its on size already. if it's worn .001 -.002 from Standard, Definitely not going to happen.
Hope you haven't purchased pistons yet...
That first one may not clean up at .005 , depends on how much wear is already there. The shadowing also indicates some out of round on the other cylinders.
Until you get it measured to see where its currently at, you won't know what it will take to clean it up. If the block is .002 - .003 out of round, it will never fully clean up at .005 and that assuming its on size already. if it's worn .001 -.002 from Standard, Definitely not going to happen.
Although it's not what I wanted to hear I really appreciate the feedback and I would definitely agree. I was kind of thinking it was that bad and I guess that's why we are here.
Unfortunately I do have the pistons, guess I will be selling them when I get a chance. I am seriously debating honing it by hand now and slapping the old pistons back in to get a little more life out of it while I wait on money.
Originally Posted by RB04Av
That's smoked pretty hard. Looks like it needs to be bored. Which "honing" .005" is halfway to the first bore step anyway. Also looks like it's been run without an air filter and has detonated egregiously and maybe sat around with water in the cyls for awhile. In short, MESSED UP, with a capital F.
I definitely did a good job then. Wont be leaving any trace of water in a tear down again after noticing the ring line and I figured the light brown was shallow spots. Can you elaborate on egregiously detonating in the cylinders? The engine had a misfire and uneven idle for quite some time and I didnt let up on it one bit so I could see predetonation happening with 87 octane and extra oil being introduced into the system from a stock pcv setup and blown bores. It has been abused, many long pulls on the highway daily for the last 2 years?
Last edited by Guy with a Chevy; 08-20-2024 at 12:57 PM.
Have the machine shop bore the worst cylinder and then order pistons based on that. Luckily the 4.0" bore block can go a bit further than the 4.065" LS3/L92.
Can you elaborate on egregiously detonating in the cylinders?
The little "pits" in the piston tops which are caused by red-hot debris (maybe carbon, maybe dirt) that's been stuck there for a long time, long enough to EAT the piston metal. Red-hot material like that will light off ANY fuel that comes in there, on the spot.
Also your 9th and 11th (last) pics, which show bore pitting immediately under the spark plug; and #11 shows the piston damage as well, at the same spot of course.
That poor thing got rode hard and put up wet. Literally. I can hardly believe it still ran.
Have the machine shop bore the worst cylinder and then order pistons based on that. Luckily the 4.0" bore block can go a bit further than the 4.065" LS3/L92.
A 6.0 l76 aluminum block can be bored how far?! I thought we covered this and the max is maybe .040 over?
A 6.0 l76 aluminum block can be bored how far?! I thought we covered this and the max is maybe .040 over?
The aluminum block has iron sleeves that can be honed a few thousandths over. If you remove the sleeves you can install new ones (this is a machinist only operation) and 4.15 or bigger is an option.
The aluminum block has iron sleeves that can be honed a few thousandths over. If you remove the sleeves you can install new ones (this is a machinist only operation) and 4.15 or bigger is an option.
I plan to hone it atleast .001-2 and deal with piston slap for a few months till I have stroker kit money. I know how honing works so I won't go crazy with it and I won't be finishing with a dingle berry dong. Hopefully I will be on the shy side of .001. After discussing my future stroker here and a bit of searching I will be comfortable boring it .030 over and running NA only with 10-10.5 CR.
But for now I am slapping it back together until my gen 5 truck is out of the dealership. 1 hour in the ultrasound machine for the pistons with some scraping prep and a brass bush to finish them off works well.
Pistons 7, 8 and 6 below. I wrote 7, 8 and 9 did not catch it until I read it hahahaha
Last edited by Guy with a Chevy; Yesterday at 07:08 PM.
That block will go .030 easily. Not sure what you need to clean it up here, but if you want to go .030 in the future, it’s been done a million times with LS2/L76 blocks.