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Help with valve height and pushrod lenfth

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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 01:56 PM
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Okay, leave the EX AND "sink" the intake by .020"; this is good for low lift flow!
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by IGN-1A
Okay, leave the EX AND "sink" the intake by .020"; this is good for low lift flow!
what do you mean by sink intake? How did you do that
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 08:01 PM
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It's where the valve seat angle is cut further down in the seat so the valve sits lower on the seat. Could also grind the valve down to achieve this.
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
It's where the valve seat angle is cut further down in the seat so the valve sits lower on the seat. Could also grind the valve down to achieve this.
Yeah I don’t wanna spend any money on machine work. Can’t I just get longer pushrods? I took a feeler it’s about .02”
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Chedbob800
Yeah I don’t wanna spend any money on machine work. Can’t I just get longer pushrods? I took a feeler it’s about .02”
Yes, and that’s what you need to do. The 2116 lifters are a medium travel lifter. You want to check all 16 independently and record your measurements. Add the required preload to those numbers and order custom pushrods. You will not have 2 different lengths…you’ll likely have 12-14 different lengths. Obviously the intakes will be in a similar batch length, and the exhausts will be in a similar batch length. I typically have 14 or 15 different length pushrods on my builds, and I’ve also had a couple with 16 different lengths. It will vary by .001, but it’s different. Again, take good notes on paper. Manton Pushrod will laser etch the length on their custom rods for you, as will other companies. It’s worth the $35 upgrade to save you an hour later when install time comes. Just match the length etched on the PR to the hole in your notes, and throw it back together.
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Yes, and that’s what you need to do. The 2116 lifters are a medium travel lifter. You want to check all 16 independently and record your measurements. Add the required preload to those numbers and order custom pushrods. You will not have 2 different lengths…you’ll likely have 12-14 different lengths. Obviously the intakes will be in a similar batch length, and the exhausts will be in a similar batch length. I typically have 14 or 15 different length pushrods on my builds, and I’ve also had a couple with 16 different lengths. It will vary by .001, but it’s different. Again, take good notes on paper. Manton Pushrod will laser etch the length on their custom rods for you, as will other companies. It’s worth the $35 upgrade to save you an hour later when install time comes. Just match the length etched on the PR to the hole in your notes, and throw it back together.


hey brother, yes I will follow your notes precisely.
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Yes, and that’s what you need to do. The 2116 lifters are a medium travel lifter. You want to check all 16 independently and record your measurements. Add the required preload to those numbers and order custom pushrods. You will not have 2 different lengths…you’ll likely have 12-14 different lengths. Obviously the intakes will be in a similar batch length, and the exhausts will be in a similar batch length. I typically have 14 or 15 different length pushrods on my builds, and I’ve also had a couple with 16 different lengths. It will vary by .001, but it’s different. Again, take good notes on paper. Manton Pushrod will laser etch the length on their custom rods for you, as will other companies. It’s worth the $35 upgrade to save you an hour later when install time comes. Just match the length etched on the PR to the hole in your notes, and throw it back together.


hey man just running through the steps in my head again and need your opinion if I am doing it right lol .
Pushrod length: Install gaskets, torque heads, snug rocker arm, measure with adjustable pushrod to zero lash (using heavy springs already installed) take measurement of all 16 pushrod lengths with micrometer. Add lifter pre load and order pushrods.

Well now my crushed head gasket can't be ran…

Pushrods show up...

Piston to valve clearance: install crushed head gasket, add some clay to cylinder 1 piston only, install pushrods, set to zero lash again, rocker arm snug, install lightweight checking springs (to avoid lifter collapse) to cylinder 1 only, rotate engine twice and then take heads off and measure clay depth.....

But now I need to order yet a second head gasket lol

How can I avoid buying a second set of head gaskets?
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 10:30 PM
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For measuring things like that, you don't need a head gasket at all.

All you need is something of the same thickness (or "close enough"... no 2 are "exactly" the same, anyway) to put between the head and the block. Washers, cardboard, sheet of aluminum or plastic of some kind, ANYTHING that takes up the right amount of space, it makes no difference. Use whatever "spec" the gasket mfr gives you, and accept that whatever the ones you buy do that's "close" to the "spec" when you install them, simply HAS TO BE "close enough", not least because it's IMPOSSIBLE to get it any closer. Don't even need to "torque" the head bolts; again, "close enough" will get you ... close enough.


"Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe". Don't fall into the trap of thinking you have to have a micrometer reading down to the .0001" that's been certified within the last year when you're measuring a 2x4 and all you have in hand to cut it to length with is a Jeffrey Dahmer saw. Let a little reality intrude on pointless and unobtainable "perfection".
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Chedbob800
hey man just running through the steps in my head again and need your opinion if I am doing it right lol .
Pushrod length: Install gaskets, torque heads, snug rocker arm, measure with adjustable pushrod to zero lash (using heavy springs already installed) take measurement of all 16 pushrod lengths with micrometer. Add lifter pre load and order pushrods.

Well now my crushed head gasket can't be ran…

Pushrods show up...

Piston to valve clearance: install crushed head gasket, add some clay to cylinder 1 piston only, install pushrods, set to zero lash again, rocker arm snug, install lightweight checking springs (to avoid lifter collapse) to cylinder 1 only, rotate engine twice and then take heads off and measure clay depth.....

But now I need to order yet a second head gasket lol

How can I avoid buying a second set of head gaskets?
When checking PTV I don’t use a gasket. I use steel valve spring shims that are all .030 in place of the head gasket. I place the shims where the headbolts go through the center of the shim, and I only use 4, one on each outer corner. Do not tighten the headbolts…only snug them as the steel shims could damage the deck and the head surface if you tighten the bolts. I use clay and spin it over twice. Remove the head, cut the clay in a few spots, and measure. So let’s say my clay reads .150, and I’m gonna use a .040 headgasket…but my shims are .030…so I add .010 to my .150 and my actual PTV is .160” …you follow me here?
PTV should be checked prior to putting heads on and once it’s determined it’s ok, your done with the long block. Once the heads are torqued then move on to rocker wipe pattern and pushrods. Pushrod length does not affect PTV, so no need to pull the heads back off.
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