Crank scraper on 4.8 crank
Need to order oil pan, windage tray, etc... for my road course engine build.
4.8 crank.
Is the Improved Racing crank scraper worth anything on a 3.267 stroke crank? What about their windage tray?
Oil pan builder(Kevko) says they just recommend the factory GM windage tray with their baffled oil pans.
Is spending $300 vs. $30 going to gain me anything as far as oil control or HP?
4.8 crank.
Is the Improved Racing crank scraper worth anything on a 3.267 stroke crank? What about their windage tray?
Oil pan builder(Kevko) says they just recommend the factory GM windage tray with their baffled oil pans.
Is spending $300 vs. $30 going to gain me anything as far as oil control or HP?
Removing the oil from a crankshaft that spins at a higher RPM is definitely worth it if this is an all out build.... You should also look at AutoKraft pans depending upon what you are building.
https://www.autokraft.org/products/
I have a 3.27 Callies Magnum crank and Howards 6.3 rods if you still need a crank. Its in my parts corner of the shop begging to be put into a project. It has the counterweighs nicely machined and came out of a $35K+ Bonneville LS destroked engine. I bought the engine and then rebuilt it with a 4.0" stroke to gain 80 cubic inches (441 vs 358) and it will still rev to 7500rpm.
https://www.autokraft.org/products/
I have a 3.27 Callies Magnum crank and Howards 6.3 rods if you still need a crank. Its in my parts corner of the shop begging to be put into a project. It has the counterweighs nicely machined and came out of a $35K+ Bonneville LS destroked engine. I bought the engine and then rebuilt it with a 4.0" stroke to gain 80 cubic inches (441 vs 358) and it will still rev to 7500rpm.
Removing the oil from a crankshaft that spins at a higher RPM is definitely worth it if this is an all out build.... You should also look at AutoKraft pans depending upon what you are building.
https://www.autokraft.org/products/
I have a 3.27 Callies Magnum crank and Howards 6.3 rods if you still need a crank. Its in my parts corner of the shop begging to be put into a project. It has the counterweighs nicely machined and came out of a $35K+ Bonneville LS destroked engine. I bought the engine and then rebuilt it with a 4.0" stroke to gain 80 cubic inches (441 vs 358) and it will still rev to 7500rpm.
https://www.autokraft.org/products/
I have a 3.27 Callies Magnum crank and Howards 6.3 rods if you still need a crank. Its in my parts corner of the shop begging to be put into a project. It has the counterweighs nicely machined and came out of a $35K+ Bonneville LS destroked engine. I bought the engine and then rebuilt it with a 4.0" stroke to gain 80 cubic inches (441 vs 358) and it will still rev to 7500rpm.
I guess my question on the crank scraper is more "will a 3.267 stroke crank even "interact" with the crank scraper?" or "interact enough to be worth it?".... I dont know how much "bigger" the standard 3.622 crank is from a physical standpoint since the Improved Racing scraper is designed for it and 4" stroke cranks.
And thanks for the offer on the crank and rods, but I've already got all my stuff at the machine shop getting built.
I'd be inclined to agree that for anything like an al-out racing build, a scraper would be essential. Not so much that the motor "needs" it or "can't live without" it, as, if the guy in the other lane has one and you don't, then all ELSE equal, he's got an advantage, and heads-up you're gonna lose. Maybe not by much, butt... which side of that situation would any of us like to be on?
If the scraper is properly installed, i.e. cut as close to "wiping" the crank as possible, then how can it NOT?
This however, may PRECLUDE "proper installation". If it comes with a roughed-out hole already cut out of it, and that hole is already beyond the extents of the baby crank, then it might not be possible to make it fit tight to that particular one.
A call to IR might be A Good Idea at this point, to find out what their product's dimensions are. You could bolt up a sheet of thin aluminum or plastic or something, trim it as close as you can to your crank, and compare that to their off-the-shelf offering.
will a 3.267 stroke crank even "interact" with the crank scraper?
the Improved Racing scraper is designed for it and 4" stroke cranks.
A call to IR might be A Good Idea at this point, to find out what their product's dimensions are. You could bolt up a sheet of thin aluminum or plastic or something, trim it as close as you can to your crank, and compare that to their off-the-shelf offering.
I'd be inclined to agree that for anything like an al-out racing build, a scraper would be essential. Not so much that the motor "needs" it or "can't live without" it, as, if the guy in the other lane has one and you don't, then all ELSE equal, he's got an advantage, and heads-up you're gonna lose. Maybe not by much, butt... which side of that situation would any of us like to be on?
If the scraper is properly installed, i.e. cut as close to "wiping" the crank as possible, then how can it NOT?
This however, may PRECLUDE "proper installation". If it comes with a roughed-out hole already cut out of it, and that hole is already beyond the extents of the baby crank, then it might not be possible to make it fit tight to that particular one.
A call to IR might be A Good Idea at this point, to find out what their product's dimensions are. You could bolt up a sheet of thin aluminum or plastic or something, trim it as close as you can to your crank, and compare that to their off-the-shelf offering.
If the scraper is properly installed, i.e. cut as close to "wiping" the crank as possible, then how can it NOT?
This however, may PRECLUDE "proper installation". If it comes with a roughed-out hole already cut out of it, and that hole is already beyond the extents of the baby crank, then it might not be possible to make it fit tight to that particular one.
A call to IR might be A Good Idea at this point, to find out what their product's dimensions are. You could bolt up a sheet of thin aluminum or plastic or something, trim it as close as you can to your crank, and compare that to their off-the-shelf offering.
Trending Topics
The Kevko F body pan is designed for my swap... well sort of. Its the same pan the company that sells most of the swap pieces sells, but they add like 200 bucks to it!
I guess my question on the crank scraper is more "will a 3.267 stroke crank even "interact" with the crank scraper?" or "interact enough to be worth it?".... I dont know how much "bigger" the standard 3.622 crank is from a physical standpoint since the Improved Racing scraper is designed for it and 4" stroke cranks.
And thanks for the offer on the crank and rods, but I've already got all my stuff at the machine shop getting built.
I guess my question on the crank scraper is more "will a 3.267 stroke crank even "interact" with the crank scraper?" or "interact enough to be worth it?".... I dont know how much "bigger" the standard 3.622 crank is from a physical standpoint since the Improved Racing scraper is designed for it and 4" stroke cranks.
And thanks for the offer on the crank and rods, but I've already got all my stuff at the machine shop getting built.
Since each rod cap only passes through the scraper once per revolution, it's really not "scraping" all that much compared to what is going on with the counterweights. So we have found that the difference / gains to be had between a scraper specifically designed for a 3.622" stroke and a scraper designed for a 4" stroke but used with a 3.622" scraper are actually pretty minimal. This is why we have been consolidating some of our scrapers into fewer part numbers. We have stopped offering 3.622" stroke scrapers for aftermarket rods, for example. There is virtually no difference in performance or HP gain between those and using the 4" stroke scraper.
So yes, you will see a similar advantage using the 4" stroke scraper on your 3.622" stroke crankshaft with aftermarket rods as you would if you had a 4" stroke crankshaft. Most customers are seeing power gains of 8-10 WHP. I just talked to someone a few days ago who gained 10 WHP.
As far as using our windage tray, the primary advantage is for stroker motors because it will clear a 4" stroke crankshaft without having to bend or mess with the pickup tube. The secondary advantage is that they are made from aluminum and are significantly lighter than the stock windage tray, and we also did our best to improve windage control with the design. So that said, if you have a factory stroke and you already have an OEM windage tray, I would probably just use the OEM windage tray. But if you don't have a windage tray, you might as well use ours because it's an upgrade and doesn't cost a lot more than a factory tray.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
To answer your question, it turns out the majority of the "scraping" is actually happening on the counterweights. And the counterweights are the same diameter between different stroke crankshafts. The difference between our 3.622" stroke crankscrapers and our 4.0" stroke scrapers is only around where the rod caps pass through the scraper. The 3.622" stroke crank is only designed for factory rods. The 4" stroke scraper has wider openings to clear larger aftermarket rods, plus the deeper opening for the additional stroke.
Since each rod cap only passes through the scraper once per revolution, it's really not "scraping" all that much compared to what is going on with the counterweights. So we have found that the difference / gains to be had between a scraper specifically designed for a 3.622" stroke and a scraper designed for a 4" stroke but used with a 3.622" scraper are actually pretty minimal. This is why we have been consolidating some of our scrapers into fewer part numbers. We have stopped offering 3.622" stroke scrapers for aftermarket rods, for example. There is virtually no difference in performance or HP gain between those and using the 4" stroke scraper.
So yes, you will see a similar advantage using the 4" stroke scraper on your 3.622" stroke crankshaft with aftermarket rods as you would if you had a 4" stroke crankshaft. Most customers are seeing power gains of 8-10 WHP. I just talked to someone a few days ago who gained 10 WHP.
As far as using our windage tray, the primary advantage is for stroker motors because it will clear a 4" stroke crankshaft without having to bend or mess with the pickup tube. The secondary advantage is that they are made from aluminum and are significantly lighter than the stock windage tray, and we also did our best to improve windage control with the design. So that said, if you have a factory stroke and you already have an OEM windage tray, I would probably just use the OEM windage tray. But if you don't have a windage tray, you might as well use ours because it's an upgrade and doesn't cost a lot more than a factory tray.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Since each rod cap only passes through the scraper once per revolution, it's really not "scraping" all that much compared to what is going on with the counterweights. So we have found that the difference / gains to be had between a scraper specifically designed for a 3.622" stroke and a scraper designed for a 4" stroke but used with a 3.622" scraper are actually pretty minimal. This is why we have been consolidating some of our scrapers into fewer part numbers. We have stopped offering 3.622" stroke scrapers for aftermarket rods, for example. There is virtually no difference in performance or HP gain between those and using the 4" stroke scraper.
So yes, you will see a similar advantage using the 4" stroke scraper on your 3.622" stroke crankshaft with aftermarket rods as you would if you had a 4" stroke crankshaft. Most customers are seeing power gains of 8-10 WHP. I just talked to someone a few days ago who gained 10 WHP.
As far as using our windage tray, the primary advantage is for stroker motors because it will clear a 4" stroke crankshaft without having to bend or mess with the pickup tube. The secondary advantage is that they are made from aluminum and are significantly lighter than the stock windage tray, and we also did our best to improve windage control with the design. So that said, if you have a factory stroke and you already have an OEM windage tray, I would probably just use the OEM windage tray. But if you don't have a windage tray, you might as well use ours because it's an upgrade and doesn't cost a lot more than a factory tray.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
So, in conclusion, the scraper will do for the 4.8 crank the same as for the 5.3 crank. Lesson over. Did we retain it this time???
You totally ignored a main point above. It's mostly the COUNTERWEIGHTS getting "scraped", NOT the throws. The counterweight diameter is THE SAME BETWEEN BOTH CRANKS
So, in conclusion, the scraper will do for the 4.8 crank the same as for the 5.3 crank. Lesson over. Did we retain it this time???
So, in conclusion, the scraper will do for the 4.8 crank the same as for the 5.3 crank. Lesson over. Did we retain it this time???
And the counterweights are the same diameter between different stroke crankshafts
Yes, the rods will be a little further away from the scraper compared to the larger strokes, but it's still going to be scraping the sides of the rod caps pretty well, as well as all of the sides and ends of the counterweights. So it will still have a significant, though slightly lesser, impact. I can't give you an exact number but I would guess the difference in performance is less than 10%.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Sorry I missed that!
Yes, the rods will be a little further away from the scraper compared to the larger strokes, but it's still going to be scraping the sides of the rod caps pretty well, as well as all of the sides and ends of the counterweights. So it will still have a significant, though slightly lesser, impact. I can't give you an exact number but I would guess the difference in performance is less than 10%.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Yes, the rods will be a little further away from the scraper compared to the larger strokes, but it's still going to be scraping the sides of the rod caps pretty well, as well as all of the sides and ends of the counterweights. So it will still have a significant, though slightly lesser, impact. I can't give you an exact number but I would guess the difference in performance is less than 10%.
Let us know if you have any other questions!














