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That's kind of why you don't See ERL Blocks being used any more...They closed the doors to the public around 2017 I believe... I am not sure if they are even still around.
Back in the day it made sense. You had OEM blocks or the C5R block which was like10K. Then the LSX block came out. Some people didn't want the weight penalty associated with it. And the first blocks weren't problem free either... I am sure all of the manufactures casting blocks had issue that had to be corrected after the first round of production. But now we have so many choices it doesn't make sense. Especially with the priority Main oiling feature in the aftermarket stuff.
So in his latest video at about 14:16 he gets back into the block discussion about the deck.
Now I am pulling the next part a little out of context but he makes an important statement starting At 22:14 He states: "Some one has to help us develop all this stuff as far as some one has got to want to pay me to do it."
He does also mention that he has a few customer lined up for this process already. So he will be developing them.
Ya I definitely respect the guy for trying new things and for sharing knowledge. It’s just for my money I can’t see going that route. I’m also not at the skill level or budget to chase records anyway so being able to say it’s a stock block means nothing to me.
Morris is using a non siameesed bore block in the video. There's a coolant transfer hole between the bores in that block making it non dry sleeve able. As far as I know the only siameesed bore 5.3 blocks are the LC9 12571048 and 12601900 casting numbers. All other Gen IV 5.3 blocks share the internal cores of the Gen III which have a coolant transfer hole between the bores including all front drive blocks.
I checked all my gen 4 blocks and cannot see light through the cooling jackets. Where are the part numbers on the block as I could not find either of those you posted.
I checked all my gen 4 blocks and cannot see light through the cooling jackets. Where are the part numbers on the block as I could not find either of those you posted.
I buy a lot of blocks. Numbers on Gen4 aluminum 5.3 blocks are often hard to find…sometimes they are stamped on one of the tabs. You have to take a sanding sponge and clean the tabs up to find the number usually.
I buy a lot of blocks. Numbers on Gen4 aluminum 5.3 blocks are often hard to find…sometimes they are stamped on one of the tabs. You have to take a sanding sponge and clean the tabs up to find the number usually.
I'll try that this weekend. What I can tell is no light passes through the water jacket where they would be Siamese and the bulkheads are solid for strength.
12571048 is either etched or raised cast numbers on the front bank driver's side. There's a pad cast there with the number. 12601900 is cast (raised numbers) on the left rear (driver's side) of the block above where the bellhousing would bolt up.
12571048 is either etched or raised cast numbers on the front bank driver's side. There's a pad cast there with the number. 12601900 is cast (raised numbers) on the left rear (driver's side) of the block above where the bellhousing would bolt up.
1” billet deck……… is that the size before you mill the deck flat or after the milling? After milling, the is the deck height now?
Any fears of having your pistons out of the hole too much now?
Does he stress relieve the block ?
id still rather buy a new block.
You would have to ask Steve Morrison. It depends how far down that plate goes into the block. He leaves it a little high so he can surface after welding. Once it's all done, he mills it to the standard deck height of a normal LS block. Then final machines it for sleeves. Should be no issue with pistons too high or low in the block.
I dont know if Steve Morris stress relieves the block like Steve D. at R.E.D. actually does and some other companies claim to do. I has shown to be beneficial when doing that much work to a block.
Also, I have been thinking about it and There is no reason he couldnt make a 6 bolt deck plate and cut the block accordingly. He just chooses not to.
Steve is a smart guy, and I enjoy his tech often. My mind can’t get away from the billet plate being perimeter tig welded, which isn’t a deep weld at all, and then it’s put on a surfacer and cut down a couple 2-3 thou to make it all flat…just not enough weld penetration for my liking. Maybe Steve cuts this plate with a bevel edge and he’s “building up” weld penetration by making multiple passes with the tig? I hope so. Anyone here know Steve personally?
Steve is a smart guy, and I enjoy his tech often. My mind can’t get away from the billet plate being perimeter tig welded, which isn’t a deep weld at all, and then it’s put on a surfacer and cut down a couple 2-3 thou to make it all flat…just not enough weld penetration for my liking. Maybe Steve cuts this plate with a bevel edge and he’s “building up” weld penetration by making multiple passes with the tig? I hope so. Anyone here know Steve personally?
He is cutting a bevel on both the plate and the block for welding,
How Ever, I agree. I still don't believe he is going deep enough. He is only welding in a single pass and then a top pass to make sure its not under cut. No Pre or Post heat on the block from what I saw in the Video.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; Sep 6, 2025 at 09:07 PM.
Reason: clarification
Thanks for posting that. Meh…even with the bevel I’m not sold on the integrity here. That’s anything BUT a stock block at this point. The Darton sleeves are much stronger than stock and even out at 4.155” in a boosted build, they are plenty strong enough to contain a crazy amount of bewst. Seems like a great opportunity to have a coolant leak behind the sleeve, where that billet plate meets that cast aluminum sleeve, when up to temp. Instead of a single GM coolant tablet as I use with Steve’s RED blocks, maybe put several in this deal and pray for containment. But as I said, Steve Morris is a very smart guy. I’m pulling for him here.
Thanks for posting that. Meh…even with the bevel I’m not sold on the integrity here. That’s anything BUT a stock block at this point. The Darton sleeves are much stronger than stock and even out at 4.155” in a boosted build, they are plenty strong enough to contain a crazy amount of bewst. Seems like a great opportunity to have a coolant leak behind the sleeve, where that billet plate meets that cast aluminum sleeve, when up to temp. Instead of a single GM coolant tablet as I use with Steve’s RED blocks, maybe put several in this deal and pray for containment. But as I said, Steve Morris is a very smart guy. I’m pulling for him here.
I probably come off as condescending in some of my post about this... But I also do believe he is a smart guy.
In my opinion, I think he needs to go deeper with a root pass. I also believe he needs to stress relieve the block.
If you watch Gerald Brand at Brand Racing. When ever he does something on an aluminum head to a structural area, he peens the weld to relieve the stress.
He is cutting a bevel on both the plate and the block for welding,
How Ever, I agree. I still don't believe he is going deep enough. He is only welding in a single pass and then a top pass to make sure its not under cut. No Pre or Post heat on the block from what I saw in the Video.
I'm not a welder. However, I've worked with many thru the years. That said, I was told by a couple of them-1 certified-that you never lay a bead down over another bead. I'm talking steel here, not aluminum. I'm assuming you're talking about that when you mention a "top pass?" Is it different with aluminum, or is my assumption wrong, or both???
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