I am having an engine built for my Corvette. Presently it has the factory LS3. I am looking to get into an engine with forged parts and maybe a few improvements/upgrades.

The block is, or used to be, a 5.3L and is now sleeved and bored to 4.125".



ARP studs for the mains. Line bored.



DART Pro1 LS 280/68 heads that will get some touchup.



Callies CompStar rods and 8 CW 4" crank ---> 427 ci.

Diamond pistons. The compression will be 11:1 or so.

No gold plated/Gucci parts. Just a modest little build so I can relax and enjoy getting on it now and then.

I'll run the same V3-Ti.

 

Should be a solid setup, and make TONS of power, enjoy!

 

Bored and sleeved by RED? What year 5.3 block?

 

BES Bischoff Racing Engines

Handy link to article on Engine Builder Mag website for those not familiar with BES

I am fortunate to live withing driving distance of a premier racing engine builder.

 

Steve, if you want to sell the LS3 block you’re going to pull out, Pm me please.

 

Following!

I too am just starting an LS3 build for my C5. I just picked up an L92 block that needs some work. Pricing out some machinists up here in the Cleveland area now, and then Ill be filling mine with all Summit Racing internals.

 

Ferrea valves on order. To be delivered Tuesday.

F2010P hollow stem intakes

F6235 24 degree Tulip Super flo radius groove for the exhaust.

 

I got a call from Bischoff Tuesday. They are building my engine.

I had asked for the static CR to be no less than 11. Brent told me he calculated 11.375. Excellent!!!

Bischoff is providing the oil pump. Melling 10355. They have an oil pump dyno an individually check each oil pump before installation.

Maybe next week.

I have an appointment with Jim Sizemore to start the install mid to late February when he finishes up what he is working on. That will get it back on the road in time for decent weather.

The break in time is going to be tough. Then a tune and off to RPM for a trans refresh and trans tune.

 

Good to see an update Steve. Tell us more!

 

So folks complain about the lack of warm weather in the upper mid west. Really its the prime time for spending cash on your latest project. LOL.
Good luck on your engine project.

 

Steve, the break-in time isn't nearly as long as it once was. That said, I'll tell you what helped me keep my foot out of it for the first 500 miles: Every time I was tempted to gas it, I just thought of all the hard work and BIG$$$$$ I put into it. It worked for me. There's also this: My shortblock was built at Thomson Automotive in Wixom, Michigan, now Lingenfelter. When I asked Brian Thomson about the break-in period, he said it really wasn't necessary anymore, due to the tolerances being held on modern machinery. He also said that the engine was run on the engine dyno as soon as it was built, with no break-in, and the dyno is much harder on the engine than anything I could put it through. My opinion.....

 

Biggest thing with the break in is making sure there are no leaks, let it get to operating temp and get some hits on it with the dyno as soon as possible to get the rings seated. Spend too much time putzing around with it at idle and such, you'll just glaze the rings/walls.

 

Don’t let it idle. Period. Light throttle revs to 1500-1800 as soon as you see oil pressure. Do this for the first 2-3 minutes, then light revs every 5 seconds or so until it gets up to temp. Have someone put eyes on leaks, etc. Idling or lugging a new engine is bad for it. Cylinders are oiled from oil slung from rod bearings, and need some rpm (oil) to help skirts, cylinder walls, and rings all get along with each other for the first several heat cycles. Ring seating is quick nowadays with the thin ring packages. Rings are literally set in first 30 seconds of run time if the cylinder finish is correct. Really no break-in to speak of other than this. Getting the AFR’s correct is far more critical than break-in…that will tear it up quicker than anything.

 

Scott,

I used to use Quick Seat made by Total Seal on my gen I small block builds. I like the protection it gave the cylinders during the build and always had good compression numbers right off the bat with minimal break in. Is this product still applicable or do the rings just seat quick on their own anyway now with the smaller ring packages like you mentioned?

 

The avg ring set is .043” thick (even OEM’s) nowadays, and if you order performance ring sets, they get down around .038 or less. There’s very little ring material and it wears in…seats…very quick. My comrades in the Cup world are using .026” ring sets in that abusive environment. ProStock is even smaller sets. Zero seat time there literally.

 

Brent from Bischoff called today. My engine is ready. I will head over there next week and drag it back to the shop in Dayton which will do the swap.

The swap is scheduled to start mid February. It's really too cold to drive it right until April really.

I have most of the stuff I need to complete the install. The only big item left is the water pump. I decided to go with a Meziere electric pump to get better water circulating a idle to help with cool down so I need to order one but the pricing seems pretty much fixed. Other than that its little stuff, sensors and seals.

Had the headers cerracoated for heat control. Gotta find some more 8 rib pulleys. Have an 8 rib damper a got a pulley coming for the alternator, haven't found one for the power steering pump yet. Other than the SC what is left.