Help Me Personally Build A 400+ CID Engine
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,460
Likes: 190
From: Harford Co. Maryland
You make some good points. As far as the warranty goes, most everyone finds a way to weasel out of them. I've had them tell me that "If it's something we did, we'll take care of it." Which quickly morphs into "Those are racing parts in your engine, and we don't warrant racing parts." Just sayin'. In my 50+ years of doing this on cars, bikes, whatever, I have NEVER gotten any free parts OR labor. I know you can pay extra at Lingenfelter for a warranty, but good grief, Lingenfelter already charges probably more than anyone else does. I've never had a problem with their stuff, and they do make really good equipment. But you're kinda paying higher than premium prices BEFORE getting the warranty, if you go that way...
I'd rather deal local so IF there was an issue...
That's basically an LSA replacement piston. Just figure out the bore size and start shopping. Wiseco, Summit or Mahle will have something that will work.
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,460
Likes: 190
From: Harford Co. Maryland
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 402
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From: Dundee, MI
No worries about thread stealing, I learn a lot just watching various questions and ideas, which is the point of this one. My build will be slow starting and take some time. Especially as $$$ as it’ll have to be to reach my goal. I’ll do a separate build thread when that time comes.
The only thing I will add is that a stroke is always there working for you at any rpm. At least, that's what GM said when they went from the Gen1 SBC 350s 3.48 stroke to the 3.62 LS1 stroke.......
I do agree with EBC5Z06 about strokes. I think he's basically saying that he's an oversquare guy, meaning bore larger than stroke length. Going with a 4.165" bore with a 3.900 stroke would make a 425 cube motor. Which slows piston speed a bit and lowers rod angularity a bit if you use a slightly longer rod. Which all equal a friction reduction. I have seen some builds using the 4.125 bore and the 3.622 stoke crank, which equates to 387 cubes. If I were building something around the popular "383" size, and wanted longer life at 7,500+ rpm, that combo would probably be my first choice. Or a 4.165" bore and 3.500" stroke, which would make a 382...
Last edited by grinder11; Jan 7, 2026 at 11:24 AM.
4.00 stroke is not recommended for Gen III iron blocks due the shorter length sleeves and although it can be remedied by shorter pistons it's nothing more than a band-aid.
That all goes out the window with resleeved Gen III aluminum blocks.
That all goes out the window with resleeved Gen III aluminum blocks.
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,460
Likes: 190
From: Harford Co. Maryland
Great info I was not fully aware of.
My block is a 2005 LQ4...Now looking at just boring .030-.040 and leaving everything else as-is for a 370" along with more cam to reach that 630 +/- FWHP
My block is a 2005 LQ4...Now looking at just boring .030-.040 and leaving everything else as-is for a 370" along with more cam to reach that 630 +/- FWHP