Generation IV Internal Engine 2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9

Need advice on leakdown and compression results.

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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 07:20 AM
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I wonder if you cracked a piston. Well pull the head off and start to see what is there. I would also check for a bent valve. You also might have blown the head gasket out with the hydro-lock. Spanks good idea on the LS9 valve covers - interesting the bumps they have in them. You probably need to do a leak down also but you can do it cold just factor that in looks like the guy above was 7% delta (35 vs 28) in a bad situation. Even a 700 hp motor in good form will still have 15 cfm of blow by at WOT.
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
Yup, I used to use it too, before it was offered under the different name as a hot-rodder product.
We used it on the old slant 6 Chryslers in forklift trucks.
Bon Ami in a ketchup squeeze bottle.
Get the engine warmed up, raise the rpm and give it a "snort", watch the engine stumble and blow some crap out the exh.
Recover the rpm, give it another shot, change the oil and filter.
Check for oil consumption during next oil change cycle.
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 09:22 AM
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Years ago, on 2 strokes with chrome/Nikasil bores plated bores, we'd simply install the rings dry, with no lube on the rings. It worked. But that's not a V8, so I wouldn't recommend it in this application. Interesting how many different approaches there are to hasten ring seating...
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Years ago, on 2 strokes with chrome/Nikasil bores plated bores, we'd simply install the rings dry, with no lube on the rings. It worked. But that's not a V8, so I wouldn't recommend it in this application. Interesting how many different approaches there are to hasten ring seating...
Mike, I always put my 2 stroke engines together with dry rings on a fresh rebuild. Super quick ring seal. It really didn’t matter to me about skirt wear, as I rebuilt the race stuff often…sometimes after each heat race. I raced Yamaha Banshees in AMA sanctioned motorcross stuff in the late 80’s. Looking back, I can’t believe that I am still alive. LolZZZZ
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 07:40 PM
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I pulled the engine from car and have it on the engine stand.
I ordered a new leakdown tester just to rule out a bad gauge since my original is 22 yrs old. Ill update when I have results later this weeks with my findings.
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Buzzard
We used it on the old slant 6 Chryslers in forklift trucks.
Bon Ami in a ketchup squeeze bottle.
Get the engine warmed up, raise the rpm and give it a "snort", watch the engine stumble and blow some crap out the exh.
Recover the rpm, give it another shot, change the oil and filter.
Check for oil consumption during next oil change cycle.
Can y'all tell me exactly what this product does to help get the rings to seat? It's a bunch of abrasive particles, like AJAX/ Comet, isn't it?

What happens to the leftotver particles?
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 09:38 PM
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These are my results as a reference point. All leakage was going through my catch can as best I can tell. Higher % and I felt more air coming out. ~60k mile SBE ls7 with lots of track miles. I’m going to just keep flogging it.

Cold Leakdown results1: 18%
6: 22%
4: 19%
2: 9%
8: 8%
3: 23%
5: 18%
7: 12%
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 12:41 AM
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Just read you’re using 40psi supply pressure. My gauge wants 80psi. When my supply pressure dropped my leak values would start climbing. You sure 40psi is right?
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 07:01 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by spanks13
The baffling is way better than any aftermarket solution. I don't know if I can link it here, but they're available from michigan motorsports for $150 a pair with gaskets and bolts. The baffle design is similar to LS3 valve covers, but the top of the cover is bumped up to accommodate a larger baffle volume without impinging on the rocker arms. The underside clearance is the same to an LS3. Also nice that the coil packs bolt directly onto them without a bracket, so they're a bit cleaner looking.

You can see the oil/vapor needs to travel from one end of the valve cover to the other. The red cap is the factory quick disconnect. There's a company selling press in 10AN fittings. You remove the stock fitting and drill out the hole to 9/16" and press in the 10AN. The factory fitting is for 3/8 lines, but the ID is less than 1/4".

I've had Holley, BTR, modified BTR, and now these. Road racing and autoX is a royal pita for oil control. I'm at the track again this Saturday and really hoping I can get through the day without oil drama lol.

And yes, we welded an exhaust extractor into the exhaust pulling on the top of the catch can. MightyMouse sells a remote exit that replaces the air filter with a 10AN cap. I had the can overfill a couple times with the exhaust extractor and all I had was some oil residue on my rear bumper instead of half a quart of oil inside my engine bay lol. Honestly got very lucky that nothing hit the headers and decided to flare up. MightyMouse recommends relocating the breather behind the car or into the airbox for road racing and I see why.

Sorry for the derail, this hits close to home lol. I feel your pain OP.

Optimized image
I switched to Summit LS3 style covers last year as I was filling the can more and more after I added aero. I too have a MM catch can, but instead of routing it to the exhaust it goes to another vented can. I also added a drain to the MM can to drain back into the pan after a session. When I added the aero I was filling the can and spraying oil like you after 2 TT sessions. With the current setup I never had to empty the second can. It was always dry (I would get some condensation once in a while but no oil).



If you follow the -10 hose it goes from the can under the headlight area back to the pass side head.
If you follow the -10 hose it goes from the can under the headlight area back to the pass side head.

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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 07:03 AM
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Spanks on my BBC I had a very similar reading on the cold leak down - I ranged from 8%-18% at the end of the day the engine needed to be bored .010 fortunately Diamond makes any size piston I want (4.510 bore).
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by spanks13
Just read you’re using 40psi supply pressure. My gauge wants 80psi. When my supply pressure dropped my leak values would start climbing. You sure 40psi is right?
if i crank the regulator higher it raises the other gauge off 0.
I have another leak down tester on its way just to rule out a bad gauge. Will know more in a few days
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Old Feb 19, 2026 | 06:44 PM
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New gauge & new results

#1. 10%
#2. 11%
#3. 13%
#4. 14%
#5. 14%
#6. 14%
#7. 14%
#8. 16%

Im sure with a warm engine these numbers as is could get into the single digits. Plus im starting to think my ring gas was wider. For some reason I thought it was .022 & .026. Can't find the build sheet, but im as 2nd guessing myself that it is wider. Think im going to tear it down rehone and re-ring.
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 07:37 AM
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Do a leak down with piston a bottom of the bore too. Just do one or two like 6 and 8. That maybe where the real leak is coming form at BDC.
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by spanks13
Just read you’re using 40psi supply pressure. My gauge wants 80psi. When my supply pressure dropped my leak values would start climbing. You sure 40psi is right?
yes it was correct on old gauge.
New gauge was wanting 100 psi to zero out.
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 09:54 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Double06
Do a leak down with piston a bottom of the bore too. Just do one or two like 6 and 8. That maybe where the real leak is coming form at BDC.
I could do that. In my mind im thinking it wouldn't matter nearly as much as all the power comes from the squeeze at TDC. I very well could be thinking wrong.
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 10:08 AM
  #36  
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It will continue to blow out it goes down the hole. The test at BDC will also tell you if your cylinders are out of round and the piston rock has gotten to you. Say you are 16% at TDC and say 30% at the bottom you know you got an issue. Just another reason to take it apart.

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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Double06
It will continue to blow out it goes down the hole. The test at BDC will also tell you if your cylinders are out of round and the piston rock has gotten to you. Say you are 16% at TDC and say 30% at the bottom you know you got an issue. Just another reason to take it apart.
makes sense
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 08:17 AM
  #38  
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#3 barely catch that scratch with my nail


#1 and #8 cylinder 10% and 16% leakage on those.
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Old Mar 1, 2026 | 07:36 AM
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hard to tell from photo but about 2 inches down does it look kind of shinny with the hone marks mostly gone? In the 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock position of the piston.
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