Folks, it seems there are a lot of offerings for he LS3 rocker arm trunnion mods. What do I really need? Do I need the bolts or just this?

How about this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/20920/10002/-1

Thanks

 

If you must change the trunnion setup, Id go with the BTR V2 setup. Personally, I've never had any issues with the OEM trunnions. When I went with the Comp "upgrade" (do not recommend the Comp setup!), the trunnion axles all galled considerably in less than 20,000 miles. So I went with the BTR V2s. No problems with the V2 BTRs...

 

If I were to do it, I would go with either the BTR shaft kit or the CHE kit that ties two rockers together. Might as well get some added stability for the work.

 

I’ve used quite a few CHE kits and they are solid performers that hold up well. The newest CHE offering ties the pair of rockers together to add stability, as mentioned by MuhThugga. If you’re set on going aftermarket, that’s my choice hands down.

 

Personally I wouldn't get anything with needle bearings. I wouldn't consider that an upgrade.
I've seen where lately, there have been some people that have gotten different kits where a bearing has had missing needles. And then where does that leave you? Granted, you could bring it up with the vendor and resolve it, but why should you have to?
It's also another failure point with more moving parts. If you were to get the solid bronze or brass bushing type kit, I think that would work well. Just my 2ccs
I've talked with a couple major valve train vendors on the phone and they've also mentioned that the stock rockers and trunnions hold up just fine for most applications. But of course, that's why there are several selections out there!
Good luck.

 

IMO CHE is the only way to go. I've put a lot of hard miles on CHE bushings and after inspecting them, they've shown no signs of needing replacement any time soon.

Cheap kits like the one you linked don't last long. I just pulled the same kit out of my TSP roller rockers and they had a lot of wear after 8k miles.

 

I have the CHE kit that looks like the one you posted from Jegs...not the one that ties the 2 rockers.

It's sitting on my workbench on the "to do list". Heard nothing but good about CHE kit.

 

I'm pretty well convinced that the high lift, high spring rates, and aggressive ramp rates have a whole lot to do with rocker arm wear. I've seen Che bushings have a lot of wear in just a few thousand miles when used with high lift and aggressive lobe styles. I've had good luck using Cam Motion cams, stock rocker arms, BTR platinum dual springs, and .620 max valve lift.

 

^^^^^^^I agree with this.^^^^^^ There are always trade-offs. Bushings carry more load, but with increased friction, wear, and heat. Long term, PROPERLY ENGINEERED needles, which really are small diameter roller bearings, will be the best choice for most, which is why GM went that way. BUT, if you start running .650"+ lift, 250°+ duration cams, with 500lb+ springs, you're probably going to be inside the valve covers more often, anyway. So bushings may be the best choice in that application. My .02

 

Thanks to all you folks for your insight and comments. It is vert helpful.

 

I got BTR rockers and will be adding CHE bushing trunions, best of both worlds!

 

What generation LS eng already have needle bearings?

Any link to these two? Do they (BTR/CHE) work with the OE rocker body?

 

ALL LS engines came with needle bearing trunnions, AFAIK.......

 

So whats the advantage (if any) for the average LS owner to swap over?

 

Lift capability. The stock trunion needle cages limit valve lift.

 

 

Don't buy the Summit kit, SUM-141560. These have less than 15k miles on them, with a .600/.575 lift cam. All are the same, with very noticeable grooving.

 

It is hard to tell from the pics, but the grooves I think I'm seeing look to be oil grooves that are machined into the bushings and trunnions, to help hold extra oil. Not seeing any wear grooves. Have you inspected the diameters, inner and outer, for any egg shaping or out of roundness?

 

This is the first negative CHE report I've seen honestly and I dig for info pretty hard lol. They were for sure CHE and not some other pressed fit bushings (see those all fail)?

 

The grooves you see in the bronze are not there from the factory. The bushings are smooth out of the box on both sides, and the grooves have been worn in them over time.