Katech-built LS7 makes 655hp 579ft/lbs NA!
Originally Posted by chuntington101
so what do you guys think will be the max BHP you can get out of this combo?? 700bhp??
just need you to sell it as a creat motor now!!!
Chris.
just need you to sell it as a creat motor now!!!
Chris.
We do have a crate motor with this setup we will be announcing soon.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
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katech,
Could you guys build a LS7 engine that makes the kind of power you showed on this post (or more) that could rev safely to 8000rpm? Maybe with some aftermarket valve train parts, a new high rpm balanced rotating assembly for the bottom, what ever you need.
I was actually looking at this block to base the engine off of:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=37
Can you make this engine rev to 8000rpm and make good power over the whole rpm range?
Could you guys build a LS7 engine that makes the kind of power you showed on this post (or more) that could rev safely to 8000rpm? Maybe with some aftermarket valve train parts, a new high rpm balanced rotating assembly for the bottom, what ever you need.
I was actually looking at this block to base the engine off of:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=37
Can you make this engine rev to 8000rpm and make good power over the whole rpm range?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
At 8000rpm you are looking at a max piston velocity of ~155 ft/sec w/ a stroke of 4.25" and a 6.1"-6.3" rod. Go with a smaller rod and your velocity gets even higher.
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
Not saying it can't be done, or isn't done, it's just that if/when it happens, it will be a thing of beauty.
Go Katech!! LOL
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
Not saying it can't be done, or isn't done, it's just that if/when it happens, it will be a thing of beauty.
Go Katech!! LOL
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
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It would be perfect if you could just finish that dyno graph by continuing the hp line out to 8000 without it droping below 500. And safely be able to go over 7000 when you feel like it. Not an every day thing, just for fun. But I want the engine to be able to handle it on track days.
By the way, are those numbers at the crank or rear wheels?
By the way, are those numbers at the crank or rear wheels?
Originally Posted by foryorent
It would be perfect if you could just finish that dyno graph by continuing the hp line out to 8000 without it droping below 500. And safely be able to go over 7000 when you feel like it. Not an every day thing, just for fun. But I want the engine to be able to handle it on track days.
By the way, are those numbers at the crank or rear wheels?
By the way, are those numbers at the crank or rear wheels?
Originally Posted by chirp_fourth
At 8000rpm you are looking at a max piston velocity of ~155 ft/sec w/ a stroke of 4.25" and a 6.1"-6.3" rod. Go with a smaller rod and your velocity gets even higher.
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
Not saying it can't be done, or isn't done, it's just that if/when it happens, it will be a thing of beauty.
Go Katech!! LOL
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
Not saying it can't be done, or isn't done, it's just that if/when it happens, it will be a thing of beauty.
Go Katech!! LOL
Piston speed is already 4700 ft/sec @7000. I'm sure it could be done, but it would take some engineering and I don't know if those costs would prove much of a benefit.
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Let me just say damn. Its awesome to see people doing this kind of research and being willing to share it. The possibilities look so endless on what we could get out of these engines. Its great to see.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
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what kind of components would it take?
I would assume that buying a crate motor would be wastefull if you have to replace most or all of the internals of the engine. would it be better to start out with an aftermarket block like the world one in my first post. then add the high end aftermarket stuff. i'm sure it can be done, but at what cost, and how would it effect reliability?
I would assume that buying a crate motor would be wastefull if you have to replace most or all of the internals of the engine. would it be better to start out with an aftermarket block like the world one in my first post. then add the high end aftermarket stuff. i'm sure it can be done, but at what cost, and how would it effect reliability?
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Northville, Michigan
At 8000rpm you are looking at a max piston velocity of ~155 ft/sec w/ a stroke of 4.25" and a 6.1"-6.3" rod. Go with a smaller rod and your velocity gets even higher.
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
For comparisons sake, a stock lt1 spinning 7000 rpm (which is pretty much spinning it's ***** off) is only at ~110 ft/sec.
Not only is your piston velocity higher ( > 35% higher), but your piston acceleration at TDC/BDC is tremendously higher as well. Rod caps/bolts need to be STRONG. Wrist pins need to be thick and beefy.
If one were to use theWarhawk LS7X block with it's 0.100 thick liners, you could increase the bore diameter to 4.1850 inches. Add a Callies Magnum XL 3.880 inch stroke lightweight crank, and 6.125 inch Titanium rods, with ARP 3.5 7/16 inch rod bolts.
That would decrease your piston speed, crank angle, side thrust on the piston skirt and cylinder walls, and you would still have a 427 cubic inch motor.
Add the Warhawk LS7X 12 degrees heads with 2.20 inch Titaninum intake valves, 1.625 inch hollow-stem, sodium-filled exhaust valves, 1.625 inch dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, etc.
Pick your intake and throttle body and a solid roller cam and kit and you would be on your way to 8,000 rpms.
.
Last edited by Pumba; Jan 15, 2006 at 07:29 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
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Katech, sorry for hijacking the thread on your great new engine. I have started a new thread about my 8,000 rpm LS7 question. Would love to hear how you might go about it.
Dan
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/437306-can-you-build-8-000-rpm-ls7.html
Dan
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/437306-can-you-build-8-000-rpm-ls7.html
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Northville, Michigan
If one were to use theWarhawk LS7X block with it's 0.100 thick liners, you could increase the bore diameter to 4.1850 inches. Add a Callies Magnum XL 3.880 inch stroke lightweight crank, and 6.125 inch Titanium rods, with ARP 3.5 7/16 inch rod bolts.
That would decrease your piston speed, crank angle, side thrust on the piston skirt and cylinder walls, and you would still have a 427 cubic inch motor.
Add the Warhawk LS7X 12 degrees heads with 2.20 inch Titaninum intake valves, 1.625 inch hollow-stem, sodium-filled exhaust valves, 1.625 inch dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, etc.
Pick your intake and throttle body and a solid roller cam and kit and you would be on your way to 8,000 rpms.
That would decrease your piston speed, crank angle, side thrust on the piston skirt and cylinder walls, and you would still have a 427 cubic inch motor.
Add the Warhawk LS7X 12 degrees heads with 2.20 inch Titaninum intake valves, 1.625 inch hollow-stem, sodium-filled exhaust valves, 1.625 inch dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, etc.
Pick your intake and throttle body and a solid roller cam and kit and you would be on your way to 8,000 rpms.
2) The Callies crank is $2,700.
3) Callies Comp Star rods with ARP 2000 bolts are $ 600.
4) J.E. Pistons, Pins, and Rings are $1,800
5) A Crane cam and kit $1,000
6) GM Rocker arms $130
7) Crane dual roller timing chain and gear set $207
8) GM LS7 roller lifters $ 91
9) Katech blueprinted LS7 oil pump $175
10) Warhawk bare heads $1,600
11) GM Titanium intake valves $ 465
12) GM LS7 exhaust valves $240
13) GM LS7 intake manifold $ 265
14) Racetronix-Delphi 50 lb injectors $ 440
15) GM LS7 throttle body $ 225
16) Cometic head gaskets $175
17) ARP cylinder head studs $ 220
18) Clevite rod and main bearings $175
That's $9,733.
Add assembly, balancing, and miscellaneous parts - TBD
It certainly would seem doable for less than $20,000.
Last edited by Pumba; Jan 16, 2006 at 08:05 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 43
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
For all that were wondering, we raced the posted engine this weekend at the Laughlin, NV race. We had some new car hickups on both cars on Saturday, but on Sunday, we placed 2nd on time with the Herman Motorsports car and had some fuel pressure issues with Kash Vessels car. Needless to say, they started 25th and 31st on Sunday and ended up 7th across the finish line. They were both passing cars at an amazing rate and they were two of the fastest cars up the long straight away.
Both drivers were impressed with the power of the car and can't wait to get to the track again. We are going to be doing some more testing on the LS7, so it should be interesting to see what we can get out of it. Hummmm, maybe some I.R.'s would be sweet!!!
Both drivers were impressed with the power of the car and can't wait to get to the track again. We are going to be doing some more testing on the LS7, so it should be interesting to see what we can get out of it. Hummmm, maybe some I.R.'s would be sweet!!!
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 43
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Here are a couple of pics of the cars
http://bbs.off-road.com/photobb/show...89560/size/big Herman Motorsports
http://bbs.off-road.com/photobb/show...89557/size/big Kash Vessels
http://bbs.off-road.com/photobb/show...89560/size/big Herman Motorsports
http://bbs.off-road.com/photobb/show...89557/size/big Kash Vessels
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 43
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally Posted by Greg Fell
What injectors are you using? And, what valve springs?
Never mess with a good thing, GM tests all this stuff for incredible amounts of time. Why develope new parts when it just isn't neccessary.
Originally Posted by 4.8T
anyone got a part number for these valve springs??
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/325495-ls2-ls7-gm-parts-numbers-list.html