LS7 connecting rod
You guys are making one assumtion that I would not make... that these rods are worth using. Until someone can prove to me these rods will handle 800+ rwhp, I personally wouls stick to the heaver KNOWN aftermarket pieces.
Maybe these GM Ti rods are the cats ***, I don't know. But I do know that my stock LS6 rods held up fine with 700 rwhp and I certainly wouldn't use those rods for a new build up.
Someone will certainly push these Ti rods and find the limits, but I can tell you it wont be me risking a $4000 block to find out! I think I'll stick to some heavy chucks of steel to keep things together in my engine for now.
Maybe these GM Ti rods are the cats ***, I don't know. But I do know that my stock LS6 rods held up fine with 700 rwhp and I certainly wouldn't use those rods for a new build up.
Someone will certainly push these Ti rods and find the limits, but I can tell you it wont be me risking a $4000 block to find out! I think I'll stick to some heavy chucks of steel to keep things together in my engine for now.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by Wet 1
You guys are making one assumtion that I would not make... that these rods are worth using. Until someone can prove to me these rods will handle 800+ rwhp, I personally wouls stick to the heaver KNOWN aftermarket pieces.
Maybe these GM Ti rods are the cats ***, I don't know. But I do know that my stock LS6 rods held up fine with 700 rwhp and I certainly wouldn't use those rods for a new build up.
Someone will certainly push these Ti rods and find the limits, but I can tell you it wont be me risking a $4000 block to find out! I think I'll stick to some heavy chucks of steel to keep things together in my engine for now.
Maybe these GM Ti rods are the cats ***, I don't know. But I do know that my stock LS6 rods held up fine with 700 rwhp and I certainly wouldn't use those rods for a new build up.
Someone will certainly push these Ti rods and find the limits, but I can tell you it wont be me risking a $4000 block to find out! I think I'll stick to some heavy chucks of steel to keep things together in my engine for now.
I think that is the general consensus here... Nobody wants wipe out a block just to see what they can handle...
TECH Resident
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Having seen a rod that experienced a piston failure I would say that they are as tough as you can expect out of a production hi-po piece. The rod was bent laterally at the small end with the pin straight and intact at about 30 some degrees. There were no signs of failure or cracking, though the part was not zyglow'd to verify. They're probably the best bargain out there for strength/weight/$$.
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KAOS <Quote>: titanium is stronger and lighter than steel right? <End quote>
Titanium is weaker than steel, but low enough density that for the same strength, a part like a rod can be lighter.
I don't see how they can be so cheap though; I think you can pay more than that for steel rods from GM! One thing: there's nearly as many Ti alloys as there are steel ones, with a large range of costs and properties. Maybe a $400+ Crower Ti rod is a tad different alloy.
Titanium is weaker than steel, but low enough density that for the same strength, a part like a rod can be lighter.
I don't see how they can be so cheap though; I think you can pay more than that for steel rods from GM! One thing: there's nearly as many Ti alloys as there are steel ones, with a large range of costs and properties. Maybe a $400+ Crower Ti rod is a tad different alloy.
Originally Posted by adams2003
Quick question guys. Im seing alot of talk about wether or not the ls7 rods will hold up to 800rwhp etc. So im assuming they would hold up fine with 700 FWHP right???
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this seems like the hot setup! think it would be much of a hassle to put these in my stock stroke/bore ls1? i know i'd have to get custom pistons to make up for the shorter length but think it would be benificial in the long run over a aftermarket rod?
I'm not trying to make a recommendation of rod choice, but I thought that I would post
up some information from a motor build that I ran about 5 years ago
I ran a set of LS1 rods from my 98 motor, put 35k miles on them, ran with the bottle
for 15bottle fills at 75-100shot, resized and bushed the rod for full floating, put them
into a B&B'd 5.7L LS1 buildup stock crank from same motor and JE pistons, ran it for
another 10k miles and 60passes in the 9's/130+mph(with t-braked Glide and nitrous).
The motor finally failed with a chunk of the deck/cyl wall falling into the cyl.
Rods came out straight. Much time was spent having the motor properly built and
properly tuned.
Jay Johnson
up some information from a motor build that I ran about 5 years ago
I ran a set of LS1 rods from my 98 motor, put 35k miles on them, ran with the bottle
for 15bottle fills at 75-100shot, resized and bushed the rod for full floating, put them
into a B&B'd 5.7L LS1 buildup stock crank from same motor and JE pistons, ran it for
another 10k miles and 60passes in the 9's/130+mph(with t-braked Glide and nitrous).
The motor finally failed with a chunk of the deck/cyl wall falling into the cyl.
Rods came out straight. Much time was spent having the motor properly built and
properly tuned.
Jay Johnson
TECH Addict
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Originally Posted by Jay Johnson
I'm not trying to make a recommendation of rod choice, but I thought that I would post
up some information from a motor build that I ran about 5 years ago
I ran a set of LS1 rods from my 98 motor, put 35k miles on them, ran with the bottle
for 15bottle fills at 75-100shot, resized and bushed the rod for full floating, put them
into a B&B'd 5.7L LS1 buildup stock crank from same motor and JE pistons, ran it for
another 10k miles and 60passes in the 9's/130+mph(with t-braked Glide and nitrous).
The motor finally failed with a chunk of the deck/cyl wall falling into the cyl.
Rods came out straight. Much time was spent having the motor properly built and
properly tuned.
Jay Johnson
up some information from a motor build that I ran about 5 years ago
I ran a set of LS1 rods from my 98 motor, put 35k miles on them, ran with the bottle
for 15bottle fills at 75-100shot, resized and bushed the rod for full floating, put them
into a B&B'd 5.7L LS1 buildup stock crank from same motor and JE pistons, ran it for
another 10k miles and 60passes in the 9's/130+mph(with t-braked Glide and nitrous).
The motor finally failed with a chunk of the deck/cyl wall falling into the cyl.
Rods came out straight. Much time was spent having the motor properly built and
properly tuned.
Jay Johnson
People thought factory ls1 aluminum blocks wouldnt live up to 800 horsepower until someone did it. Everyone said "go aluminum block its stronger etc"...
now there are low 8 second factory ls1/ls2 blocked cars...
People said factory main caps wouldnt live up to 1000hp. Guys are making 1200+ hp on factory main caps.
Now we assume the Ti rods may not live to 800 hp. They could live to 1500hp for all we know
now there are low 8 second factory ls1/ls2 blocked cars...
People said factory main caps wouldnt live up to 1000hp. Guys are making 1200+ hp on factory main caps.
Now we assume the Ti rods may not live to 800 hp. They could live to 1500hp for all we know
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From: TAMPA by way of MIAMI!!!
I just wish they were longer. Better rod/stroke ratio. But with that price just to be able to say I got TITANIUM rods might be worth it if they are tough. They prolly are though. I'm only looking to get 500-600 fwhp.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 62
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From: Texas,U.S.A.
LS-7 Rod I thought it was odd to use a Ti. rod & a cast piston.I know the pistons are "hyperut..." I suppose they don't want to hear any skirt noise when cold.I still think that's a strange combination of parts. Are those rods "on center"? Still like good old Oliver rods & JE forged pistons.
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Are the Ti rods coated to resist galling?
Well with the very harsh durability testing GM does on there engines, id have to say that these Ti rods can probably take about 1.5 times the power of the stock LS7 atleast, and woudl have to say with upgraded bolts, they are as strong or stronger than anything in the aftermarket, at a much better price.
Current price on gmpartsdirect.com is 83.98 each, so it seems its going up, wonder were it will level off.
It would benice if they were longer, but hey for the price they are hard to beat.
Current price on gmpartsdirect.com is 83.98 each, so it seems its going up, wonder were it will level off.
It would benice if they were longer, but hey for the price they are hard to beat.
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Originally Posted by 427 LS1
No and I think you have to be careful when installing rod bolts special anti seize lube may be required. Crower sells special Ti rod lube.
TECH Addict
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From: Mefis
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Don't Ti rods gall unless they are coated? Similar to using Ti locks with Ti retainers.
Just called my local dealer to pick up a set of these rods, got one in yesteday at a cost of $98.00, and called back today to pickup the other seven. GM has done there price hike and they are now around the $400.00 mark each.