Dry Sump LS1
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 157
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From: Colorado
Looks like a good way to go to me, if you can find all the parts for a reasonable price: pan, pump, crank, accessory setup, hoses, and probably an aftermarket tank (and maybe a waterpump?) The only drawback I can see is that it only scavenges from the pan, and that might not be a drawback depending on what you need.
If you're using the LS7 oil system, the special crank isn't a drawback, it's necessary. Depending on what it's going into, the accessory setup might be a problem.
If you're using the LS7 oil system, the special crank isn't a drawback, it's necessary. Depending on what it's going into, the accessory setup might be a problem.
Originally Posted by slow67
I know guys make 383s here all the time. Would there be anything special to make the LS7 dry sump setup work on an LS1?
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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An LS7 crank, oil pump, front cover, oil pan, some type of an oil tank and lines would be required. You could probably buy the oil pan, front cover and oil pump pretty reasonably from somebody who bought an LS7 crate engine and decided to run it wet sump. You might even be able to have a spacer machined to create the extra length on the crank. I think it's about .830" longer than an LS1/2/6 crank. Don't quote me on that exact extra length and I'm not sure this would work but it might.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 26
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Originally Posted by See5
There are lots better ways to go dry sump. The LS7 uses a special crank.
Originally Posted by BiggerJ
yup... www.drysump.com
All of our WC cars are drysump, external 5 stage. I have 8k in the pan/pump and tank with all of the lines.
If you are looking for a drysump for street use, the LS7 isnt a bad idea other than sourcing parts.
Louis
Originally Posted by Louis
Try running that system on anything street with AC, or for that matter any external pump setup. Headaches galore unless its a race car.
Louis
Louis
I can foresee some problems with running the external pump on the street but in all reality, they'd all be guesstimates seeing that I haven't tried it yet.
Can u give some insight into the headaches one runs into w/ the external pumps on the street?
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Verdad Gallardo On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Originally Posted by See5
Not sure what you are trying to do but just and Accusump might rest your mind for relatively cheap.
Most accusumps hold 3 quarts of oil. With an accusumped LSx engine, I have never had a failure when the install was done correctly, and the valve was turned on during track use. As for how long it lasts? At least 10-15 seconds. My drysump setups typically flow an average of 4 gallons/minute. thats 16 quarts over 60 seconds at full tilt which is ~ 1 quart every 4 seconds.
Remember though, as the accusump is feeding the engine, the original oil is making its way back to the pan and pickup.
Remember though, as the accusump is feeding the engine, the original oil is making its way back to the pan and pickup.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Louis
Most accusumps hold 3 quarts of oil. With an accusumped LSx engine, I have never had a failure when the install was done correctly, and the valve was turned on during track use. As for how long it lasts? At least 10-15 seconds. My drysump setups typically flow an average of 4 gallons/minute. thats 16 quarts over 60 seconds at full tilt which is ~ 1 quart every 4 seconds.
Remember though, as the accusump is feeding the engine, the original oil is making its way back to the pan and pickup.
Remember though, as the accusump is feeding the engine, the original oil is making its way back to the pan and pickup.
I realize there are better ways to do it, but I was more focusing on the reliability standpoint. I have a 2000 Camaro SS M6, and I like to do autocrossing and road racing, but I hate always having to worry about adding an extra quart of oil everytime i think there is a chance of spinning a bearing. Plus the added horsepower of drysump would be nice. 
Originally Posted by Louis
Try running that system on anything street with AC, or for that matter any external pump setup. Headaches galore unless its a race car.
All of our WC cars are drysump, external 5 stage. I have 8k in the pan/pump and tank with all of the lines.
If you are looking for a drysump for street use, the LS7 isnt a bad idea other than sourcing parts.
Louis
All of our WC cars are drysump, external 5 stage. I have 8k in the pan/pump and tank with all of the lines.
If you are looking for a drysump for street use, the LS7 isnt a bad idea other than sourcing parts.
Louis
which drysump system do you use, and how much did it cost?
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
slow67, IMHO it's only better if you need something more than the LS7 system can deliver. The pros are that there are no extra belts, brackets, pullies. If you can devise a spacer setup to make your present accessory setup work, that's a definite plus. As someone mentioned, there will probably be parts or complete LS7 oiling setups for sale as takeoffs by those wanting wet sumps. That should make the LS7 system LOTS cheaper, especially if you're building a new engine anyway.
If you don't need more scavenging than from the pan, I can see no better way to do it.
If you don't need more scavenging than from the pan, I can see no better way to do it.
Originally Posted by slow67
I realize there are better ways to do it, but I was more focusing on the reliability standpoint. I have a 2000 Camaro SS M6, and I like to do autocrossing and road racing, but I hate always having to worry about adding an extra quart of oil everytime i think there is a chance of spinning a bearing. Plus the added horsepower of drysump would be nice.
TECH Addict
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,866
Likes: 4
i have heard the bigger aquasumps can dilliver oil for upto about 20 seconds on a SBC, so im guessing a smilar time span for a LS engine!
i think you guess should be asking, why do you need one??? is it for braging rights or for actually oil stavation reasons????
if it is the later and you uses the car on the road go for the Auqasump! its MUCH easier to setup and will be cheaper. if you do cuircit work (like track days) then i would still go with the Aquasump unless you had a devoted track car!
and dont forget what "generaly" causes oil starvation. its under very hard breaking. also through long tight corners.
also you guess might want to look into trapdoors on you exsisting sumps (i know the LS sumps are pretty shallow. not good for hard track work).
thanks Chris.
i think you guess should be asking, why do you need one??? is it for braging rights or for actually oil stavation reasons????
if it is the later and you uses the car on the road go for the Auqasump! its MUCH easier to setup and will be cheaper. if you do cuircit work (like track days) then i would still go with the Aquasump unless you had a devoted track car!
and dont forget what "generaly" causes oil starvation. its under very hard breaking. also through long tight corners.
also you guess might want to look into trapdoors on you exsisting sumps (i know the LS sumps are pretty shallow. not good for hard track work).
thanks Chris.
We are currently in the process of making LS1 cranks with the longer snout to accomodate the LS7 dry sump system in the Callies line, as well as our upcoming Compstar cranks. As part of the plan, we'll be making them in strokes to use the factory titanium rods and shelf aftermarket pistons. I'm curious what you guys think about these configurations or any other suggestions.
We are very open to making LSX parts that aren't currently available, but people would like to see made.
Nick
We are very open to making LSX parts that aren't currently available, but people would like to see made.
Nick
Will they be stonger/and or cheaper that the $902.50 that GM wants for the stock LS7 crank? If so I would be interested. Maybe like a cast steel crank, or a similarly priced crank but say 4340 forged.
I have been looking at Accusump systems and am going to do a 3 quart simple system with solenoid valve, all up DIY, for ~$350. Hard to beat that if your concern is just oil starvation.
The other benefits dry sump may be worth the cost and complexity for the more demanding applications, but realistically, I am just cheap.
The other benefits dry sump may be worth the cost and complexity for the more demanding applications, but realistically, I am just cheap.
SSU Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,857
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by slow67
Will they be stonger/and or cheaper that the $902.50 that GM wants for the stock LS7 crank? If so I would be interested. Maybe like a cast steel crank, or a similarly priced crank but say 4340 forged.
However, you have me intruigued. There was another thread on this as well somewheres. If you got the parts fairly cheap, it would a nice build up using an Iron or LS2 block to get 402-408cid w/ a dry sump. Add L92 heads and intake, and a custom cam...and that's a bad *** motor.
