I know guys make 383s here all the time. Would there be anything special to make the LS7 dry sump setup work on an LS1?

 

There are lots better ways to go dry sump. The LS7 uses a special crank.

 

Looks like a good way to go to me, if you can find all the parts for a reasonable price: pan, pump, crank, accessory setup, hoses, and probably an aftermarket tank (and maybe a waterpump?) The only drawback I can see is that it only scavenges from the pan, and that might not be a drawback depending on what you need.

If you're using the LS7 oil system, the special crank isn't a drawback, it's necessary. Depending on what it's going into, the accessory setup might be a problem.

 

An LS7 crank, oil pump, front cover, oil pan, some type of an oil tank and lines would be required. You could probably buy the oil pan, front cover and oil pump pretty reasonably from somebody who bought an LS7 crate engine and decided to run it wet sump. You might even be able to have a spacer machined to create the extra length on the crank. I think it's about .830" longer than an LS1/2/6 crank. Don't quote me on that exact extra length and I'm not sure this would work but it might.

 

yup... www.drysump.com

 

Try running that system on anything street with AC, or for that matter any external pump setup. Headaches galore unless its a race car.

All of our WC cars are drysump, external 5 stage. I have 8k in the pan/pump and tank with all of the lines.

If you are looking for a drysump for street use, the LS7 isnt a bad idea other than sourcing parts.

Louis

 

Lou,
I can foresee some problems with running the external pump on the street but in all reality, they'd all be guesstimates seeing that I haven't tried it yet.

Can u give some insight into the headaches one runs into w/ the external pumps on the street?

 

Not sure what you are trying to do but just and Accusump might rest your mind for relatively cheap.

 

That seems like a good idea. Any idea how long an Accusump provides good oil volume/pressure it it's the only source (such as high side G for some seconds)?

 

Most accusumps hold 3 quarts of oil. With an accusumped LSx engine, I have never had a failure when the install was done correctly, and the valve was turned on during track use. As for how long it lasts? At least 10-15 seconds. My drysump setups typically flow an average of 4 gallons/minute. thats 16 quarts over 60 seconds at full tilt which is ~ 1 quart every 4 seconds.

Remember though, as the accusump is feeding the engine, the original oil is making its way back to the pan and pickup.

 

4 gallons per minute sounds like very efficient oil use. What clearances, pressure, oil viscosity, and pump size do you need to make that work?

 

I realize there are better ways to do it, but I was more focusing on the reliability standpoint. I have a 2000 Camaro SS M6, and I like to do autocrossing and road racing, but I hate always having to worry about adding an extra quart of oil everytime i think there is a chance of spinning a bearing. Plus the added horsepower of drysump would be nice.

 

which drysump system do you use, and how much did it cost?

 

slow67, IMHO it's only better if you need something more than the LS7 system can deliver. The pros are that there are no extra belts, brackets, pullies. If you can devise a spacer setup to make your present accessory setup work, that's a definite plus. As someone mentioned, there will probably be parts or complete LS7 oiling setups for sale as takeoffs by those wanting wet sumps. That should make the LS7 system LOTS cheaper, especially if you're building a new engine anyway.

If you don't need more scavenging than from the pan, I can see no better way to do it.

 

i have heard the bigger aquasumps can dilliver oil for upto about 20 seconds on a SBC, so im guessing a smilar time span for a LS engine!

i think you guess should be asking, why do you need one??? is it for braging rights or for actually oil stavation reasons????

if it is the later and you uses the car on the road go for the Auqasump! its MUCH easier to setup and will be cheaper. if you do cuircit work (like track days) then i would still go with the Aquasump unless you had a devoted track car!

and dont forget what "generaly" causes oil starvation. its under very hard breaking. also through long tight corners.

also you guess might want to look into trapdoors on you exsisting sumps (i know the LS sumps are pretty shallow. not good for hard track work).

thanks Chris.

 

We are currently in the process of making LS1 cranks with the longer snout to accomodate the LS7 dry sump system in the Callies line, as well as our upcoming Compstar cranks. As part of the plan, we'll be making them in strokes to use the factory titanium rods and shelf aftermarket pistons. I'm curious what you guys think about these configurations or any other suggestions.
We are very open to making LSX parts that aren't currently available, but people would like to see made.

Nick

 

Will they be stonger/and or cheaper that the $902.50 that GM wants for the stock LS7 crank? If so I would be interested. Maybe like a cast steel crank, or a similarly priced crank but say 4340 forged.

 

I have been looking at Accusump systems and am going to do a 3 quart simple system with solenoid valve, all up DIY, for ~$350. Hard to beat that if your concern is just oil starvation.
The other benefits dry sump may be worth the cost and complexity for the more demanding applications, but realistically, I am just cheap.

 

Doubt it and doubt it. Callies parts are very high quality, and as such, higher in price than other brands. You get what you pay for.

However, you have me intruigued. There was another thread on this as well somewheres. If you got the parts fairly cheap, it would a nice build up using an Iron or LS2 block to get 402-408cid w/ a dry sump. Add L92 heads and intake, and a custom cam...and that's a bad *** motor.

 

Kostecki has a billet dry sump with a 5-stage pump built into the pan that would work with AC and other accessories (according to Kostecki). About $4200US, $5500AU.