LS2 for road racing???????
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Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: AheadofU NY
LS2 for road racing??????? Any tips? Worth going solid roller? What type of RPM could I expect to be safe. Track only car but do need it to last a while. Domestic parts only.
I have a 346 450/400 now. What power could I expect? Going to a 427 add a bunch of cost? Do sleeved blocks last? Heads what type is best? I am not easy on mechanical things. I have about 5000 track miles on my motor now few broke springs but still kick *** motor. I went with Comp 921 duals this time. I can't build a 25,000 engine but would like something nice.
Thanks for any tips
I have a 346 450/400 now. What power could I expect? Going to a 427 add a bunch of cost? Do sleeved blocks last? Heads what type is best? I am not easy on mechanical things. I have about 5000 track miles on my motor now few broke springs but still kick *** motor. I went with Comp 921 duals this time. I can't build a 25,000 engine but would like something nice.
Thanks for any tips
two words: oiling system
the life of your motor relies on the oil system. i dunno how the LSx platform is but the sbc's u could block off certain passges to get the oil to more important places first.
the life of your motor relies on the oil system. i dunno how the LSx platform is but the sbc's u could block off certain passges to get the oil to more important places first.
The sleeved ls2 blocks are nice and should be able to take some punishment. The ls7 heads seem to be a great direction to go in with the big bore blocks. The solid cam doesn't seem to be needed unless you want 600+ rear wheel. Most of the other parts from your 346 swap over to save some money. You will need the ls2 front cover with timing chain and cam pick up. Two wires on the outside need to be swapped.
Katech has a deal on a budget 427 short block that is not too bad. Might want to give them a buzz. They could set you up with the heads and intake as well.
Katech has a deal on a budget 427 short block that is not too bad. Might want to give them a buzz. They could set you up with the heads and intake as well.
Im pretty sure he has an accusump so the oil system really isnt a big concern.
If I went to the extent of getting a block sleeved I would just stay with the LS1 block so you could keep you knock sensors (just incase you use them) and not have to get new covers and what not.
It all comes down to how much power you want to make. Cam only LS2's are making 450. 427's using LS7 heads are making over 600 with a HYD roller. FWIW LG made 535 with a heads, hyd cam, forged 346.
If I went to the extent of getting a block sleeved I would just stay with the LS1 block so you could keep you knock sensors (just incase you use them) and not have to get new covers and what not.
It all comes down to how much power you want to make. Cam only LS2's are making 450. 427's using LS7 heads are making over 600 with a HYD roller. FWIW LG made 535 with a heads, hyd cam, forged 346.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: AheadofU NY
I have an Accusump, DRM radiator with intergral oil cooler, and tranny & diff coolers. I have knock sensors in now.
I was going to keep the LS6 for a spare. Thanks for the tips! More RPM would mean less shifting. What could I spin a solid roller to dependably?
I am going 6700 now but usually shift @ 6500 unless big HP big block is on my tail
My engine is 3 years old now.
Has the problem of sleeves moving been eliminated?
I was going to keep the LS6 for a spare. Thanks for the tips! More RPM would mean less shifting. What could I spin a solid roller to dependably?
I am going 6700 now but usually shift @ 6500 unless big HP big block is on my tail
My engine is 3 years old now. Has the problem of sleeves moving been eliminated?
Originally Posted by Speedpup
I have an Accusump, DRM radiator with intergral oil cooler, and tranny & diff coolers. I was going to keep the LS6 for a spare. Thanks for the tips! More RPM would mean less shifting. What could I spin a solid roller to dependably? I am going 6700 now but usually shift @ 6500 unless big HP big block is on my tail My engine is 3 years old now.
My engine is 3 years old now. Chances of you dropping a sleeve are small, but im not sure id spend the money to get the block sleeved because your road racing and its a lot of other things that 2400+ dollars could go towards.
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John -take a look at this thread - Look at the torque curves for #2 and #3. With torque curves like these you wouldn't need to spin it so high. Lotsa grunt everywhere 
------>
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/571369-katech-value-427-dyno-test-3-cams.html
Here is Katech's thread on the Value 427 tested above
->
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1&page=2&pp=20
------>https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/571369-katech-value-427-dyno-test-3-cams.html
Here is Katech's thread on the Value 427 tested above
->https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1&page=2&pp=20
Last edited by Bink; Sep 9, 2006 at 11:28 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo The ls2 uses a dry sleeve process that does not have a sleeve dropping problem. Ls2 block can have the knock senors mounted to the sides of the block. You just need to extend the wires. A solid roller could be spun to 7500 rpm or more. At those rpms I would go with the shaft mounted jessels and a larger diameter high spring rate dual. Stock computer provides tuning ability to 8k limit. Problem is putting together a combo that still makes good power with that much rpm. Most setups I see start rolling off after 6600-6900rpm. Maybe use a carb style 4 barrel intake like a victor jr.
road race engine If you use a solid roller cam and turn over 7,000 rpm, you will pump the pan dry if your track has long straights. I highly recommend going to dry sump with a solid roller cam.
The Darton sleeves which I install do not drop or move around. That holds true for both wet and dry liners. They were designed to eliminate problems with earlier efforts to sleeve the LS blocks. The sleeve material is the same as used on Top Fuel, Funny car sleeves.
A 7,000 rpm + engine will need a custom intake manifold or modified carb manifold as someone suggested. Production style LS manifolds will peak around 6,200 - 6,500 rpm on the 427.
Steve
The Darton sleeves which I install do not drop or move around. That holds true for both wet and dry liners. They were designed to eliminate problems with earlier efforts to sleeve the LS blocks. The sleeve material is the same as used on Top Fuel, Funny car sleeves.
A 7,000 rpm + engine will need a custom intake manifold or modified carb manifold as someone suggested. Production style LS manifolds will peak around 6,200 - 6,500 rpm on the 427.
Steve
Originally Posted by Speedpup
Any tips? Worth going solid roller? What type of RPM could I expect to be safe. Track only car but do need it to last a while. Domestic parts only.
I have a 346 450/400 now. What power could I expect? Going to a 427 add a bunch of cost? Do sleeved blocks last? Heads what type is best? I am not easy on mechanical things. I have about 5000 track miles on my motor now few broke springs but still kick *** motor. I went with Comp 921 duals this time. I can't build a 25,000 engine but would like something nice.
Thanks for any tips
I have a 346 450/400 now. What power could I expect? Going to a 427 add a bunch of cost? Do sleeved blocks last? Heads what type is best? I am not easy on mechanical things. I have about 5000 track miles on my motor now few broke springs but still kick *** motor. I went with Comp 921 duals this time. I can't build a 25,000 engine but would like something nice.
Thanks for any tips
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: AheadofU NY
thanks guy I am learning. Pocono front straight is pretty long and near 160 the Turn one banking is 125 to Long Pond Straight 165 then Tunnel turn at 120. I guess no oil somewhere in there 
Dry sump would be nice but it can get involved I have heard.
How often does a solid roller need adjusted? I do about 2,000 miles a year on track at most.
Dry sump would be nice but it can get involved I have heard.How often does a solid roller need adjusted? I do about 2,000 miles a year on track at most.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: AheadofU NY
Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Chances of you dropping a sleeve are small, but im not sure id spend the money to get the block sleeved because your road racing and its a lot of other things that 2400+ dollars could go towards.
yea there is always something money keeps going to
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From: Rolesville, NC
Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng
A 7,000 rpm + engine will need a custom intake manifold or modified carb manifold as someone suggested. Production style LS manifolds will peak around 6,200 - 6,500 rpm on the 427.
Steve
and where would someone get or have made that cusom intake manifold??
Tom
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From: Rolesville, NC
I think this is a big question for many ppl. Especilly those that are looking at NASA VVX or the new GPC ( Grand Production Classes ).
Personlly I dont want to race SCCA. NASA and Viper Racing League (which are changing rules too allow vettes and porshces to race.) is what I am looking at.
So will a 402 at 525-550 HP running at 100% hold up vs a 427 with 600-650HP used at 80% hold up longer ?? or that may be a moot point depending on class rules too.
I think when I looked at the costs with the very good parts, not cheap stuff, both were close to $15G for parts plus build up and installation.
Not counting the clutch, GM Motorsprots trans, diff and hardened out put shafts. Plus all the other items
I have talked to several guys about 402 builds on a 'budget' and most of them were sorry they did the budget route at first as it cost them more and more to make it work right.
Personlly I dont want to race SCCA. NASA and Viper Racing League (which are changing rules too allow vettes and porshces to race.) is what I am looking at.
So will a 402 at 525-550 HP running at 100% hold up vs a 427 with 600-650HP used at 80% hold up longer ?? or that may be a moot point depending on class rules too.
I think when I looked at the costs with the very good parts, not cheap stuff, both were close to $15G for parts plus build up and installation.
Not counting the clutch, GM Motorsprots trans, diff and hardened out put shafts. Plus all the other items
I have talked to several guys about 402 builds on a 'budget' and most of them were sorry they did the budget route at first as it cost them more and more to make it work right.
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I think this is a big question for many ppl. Especilly those that are looking at NASA VVX or the new GPC ( Grand Production Classes ).
Personlly I dont want to race SCCA. NASA and Viper Racing League (which are changing rules too allow vettes and porshces to race.) is what I am looking at.
So will a 402 at 525-550 HP running at 100% hold up vs a 427 with 600-650HP used at 80% hold up longer ?? or that may be a moot point depending on class rules too.
I think when I looked at the costs with the very good parts, not cheap stuff, both were close to $15G for parts plus build up and installation.
Not counting the clutch, GM Motorsprots trans, diff and hardened out put shafts. Plus all the other items
I have talked to several guys about 402 builds on a 'budget' and most of them were sorry they did the budget route at first as it cost them more and more to make it work right.
Personlly I dont want to race SCCA. NASA and Viper Racing League (which are changing rules too allow vettes and porshces to race.) is what I am looking at.
So will a 402 at 525-550 HP running at 100% hold up vs a 427 with 600-650HP used at 80% hold up longer ?? or that may be a moot point depending on class rules too.
I think when I looked at the costs with the very good parts, not cheap stuff, both were close to $15G for parts plus build up and installation.
Not counting the clutch, GM Motorsprots trans, diff and hardened out put shafts. Plus all the other items
I have talked to several guys about 402 builds on a 'budget' and most of them were sorry they did the budget route at first as it cost them more and more to make it work right.
Classing is my big determining factor right now. I am running GPC-1 in NASA, which is basically the same as the VVC-1. I am running right at 400rwhp. My car with me in it is right at 3200lbs. So my power/weright ratio is right at 8:1, the limit for the first level of the classes. The last thing I want is to be in the bottom of the next class. Too much, and you get thrown into the unlimited classes.......decision, decisions.