Eagle Crank / Rods? Need your opinions
12-05-2006, 01:56 PM
#1
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Eagle Crank / Rods? Need your opinions I know they're like ********, everyone has one, but I hear from differnt people that I trust about Eagle Cranks and rods. are they really ok? or are they as bad as 1/2 of my resources tell me?! I'm going to spinning 6500-6800rpms and hopefully around 500rwhp (+/- 20)
12-05-2006, 02:43 PM
#2
They sometimes require more work to get them to function properly, but once that's been done, they are usually fine (the cranks). I'd opt for a Callies crank, however, especially considering for just a few hundred bucks more you can get a Callies Dragonslayer.
As for the rods, the Eagle rods are fine. Scat and Compstar are probably the best bang-for-your buck rods out there right now. Further, Callies makes the Compstar brand and they come with ARP 2000 bolts. The Scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts are about $140 cheaper and are about $70 cheaper with the ARP 2000 bolts.
As for the rods, the Eagle rods are fine. Scat and Compstar are probably the best bang-for-your buck rods out there right now. Further, Callies makes the Compstar brand and they come with ARP 2000 bolts. The Scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts are about $140 cheaper and are about $70 cheaper with the ARP 2000 bolts.
12-05-2006, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
They sometimes require more work to get them to function properly, but once that's been done, they are usually fine (the cranks). I'd opt for a Callies crank, however, especially considering for just a few hundred bucks more you can get a Callies Dragonslayer.
As for the rods, the Eagle rods are fine. Scat and Compstar are probably the best bang-for-your buck rods out there right now. Further, Callies makes the Compstar brand and they come with ARP 2000 bolts. The Scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts are about $140 cheaper and are about $70 cheaper with the ARP 2000 bolts.
As for the rods, the Eagle rods are fine. Scat and Compstar are probably the best bang-for-your buck rods out there right now. Further, Callies makes the Compstar brand and they come with ARP 2000 bolts. The Scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts are about $140 cheaper and are about $70 cheaper with the ARP 2000 bolts.
12-05-2006, 03:40 PM
#5
Yeah, stock stroke, stay stock crank. Otherwise, if you are buying a new stroker short-block, see if the shop has worked with Eagle cranks before. If so, then you are golden, because they have those issues worked out already (if it's a reputable shop).
12-05-2006, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Yeah, stock stroke, stay stock crank. Otherwise, if you are buying a new stroker short-block, see if the shop has worked with Eagle cranks before. If so, then you are golden, because they have those issues worked out already (if it's a reputable shop).
12-05-2006, 03:52 PM
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eagle internals FTW as long as they are newly produced ones.. they didnt pressure test the old ones.. you could have a problem like me and have an oil leak if its an older model 
btw i spin to 7k when i race it, motor feels solid as can be.
btw i spin to 7k when i race it, motor feels solid as can be.
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12-05-2006, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DoesSpeedTurnUon
So if a machine shop was going to build me a short block, fully balanced and blue printed and everything, eagle rods and crank would be ok? Or... my other route would be to use my stock crank, and eagle rods with a forged piston.
12-05-2006, 05:59 PM
#11
bull ****! i use eagle and have NEVER had a problem or a breakage of their parts. i have put 600 mustang dyno hp and 650 tq to the eagle rods and all has been great. i would use them again with no second thoughts. my parts were bought 3+ years ago and going strong.
12-05-2006, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mike c.
bull ****! i use eagle and have NEVER had a problem or a breakage of their parts. i have put 600 mustang dyno hp and 650 tq to the eagle rods and all has been great. i would use them again with no second thoughts. my parts were bought 3+ years ago and going strong.
12-05-2006, 07:14 PM
#14
This has been covered by a thread I made in the LS1/LS6 internal section. It went into great detail. To sum it up for you, if you have the extra money, go with the Callies, but if you're on a budget, then the Eagle will work just fine. The Callies stuff will be lighter and slightly stronger though.
12-05-2006, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
This has been covered by a thread I made in the LS1/LS6 internal section. It went into great detail. To sum it up for you, if you have the extra money, go with the Callies, but if you're on a budget, then the Eagle will work just fine. The Callies stuff will be lighter and slightly stronger though.
12-05-2006, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I'd say do a search, but its not working right now. The topic/thread was on both cranks and rods. Eagle vs. Callies.
12-05-2006, 11:21 PM
#18
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Eagle is the least expensive but will work fine and that's after using them in like several hundred engines. The worst problem I have seen is that leaking through the rear of the crank like LostCause said. That has been fixed with their currently shipping cranks and they all come with pilot bearings too as well but you need to be careful on the older ones and make sure you clean and seal that freeze plug behind the pilot bearing with silicone yourself. The Eagle H-Beam for LS1 are very nice and have 7/17 ARP 8740 Cap Screws which are more than you need but nice.
The Callies is more expensive but better in construction and quality control. The newer 2.000 crankpin Dragonslayer is also very light compared to almost any crank and is a very nice piece that I am using as much as possible when weight matters like on NA only stuff especially. The Callies Compstar rods are like works of art and all come with ARP2000 rod bolts which is crazy overkill but still very nice. I think the Callies stuff is as good or better than the Lunati stuff for a much better price so it's hard to ever go wrong with the Callies products either.
The Callies is more expensive but better in construction and quality control. The newer 2.000 crankpin Dragonslayer is also very light compared to almost any crank and is a very nice piece that I am using as much as possible when weight matters like on NA only stuff especially. The Callies Compstar rods are like works of art and all come with ARP2000 rod bolts which is crazy overkill but still very nice. I think the Callies stuff is as good or better than the Lunati stuff for a much better price so it's hard to ever go wrong with the Callies products either.
12-05-2006, 11:24 PM
#19
Post #14:
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
This has been covered by a thread I made in the LS1/LS6 internal section. It went into great detail. To sum it up for you, if you have the extra money, go with the Callies, but if you're on a budget, then the Eagle will work just fine. The Callies stuff will be lighter and slightly stronger though.
12-05-2006, 11:37 PM
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From what I have read on here, Erik summed it up the best. It sounds like the Eagle forged LSX cranks are much better quality than their cast old school cranks, but are not as well finished as the the Callies. From what I have heard and seen with their cast replacement and stroker cranks for the old school SBC, I would not even consider using them. It is my understanding the cranks are cast and forged in China and then shipped to Cali for machining. I guess they put their more experienced grinders on the forged line and the rookies on the cast lines. Personally I would spend the extra cash and get the Callies stuff myself for the weight savings and piece of mind.