View Poll Results: which connecting rod is the strongest?
Callies Compstar
47
14.92%
Oliver Billet
101
32.06%
Scat with ARP 2000 rod bolts
18
5.71%
Eagle forged
27
8.57%
Lunati pro billet
65
20.63%
Corrillo
57
18.10%
Voters: 315. You may not vote on this poll
strongest 6.125 rod?
03-12-2007, 12:59 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Bo Duke01
who has the strongest connecting rod in your oppinion or what do you have now and have you had any problems with them yet and what abuse have you put them through?
03-12-2007, 02:01 PM
#23
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As most builders know it's not he actual rod that takes a crap, it's the rodbolts that begin to stretch and end up breaking, with proper tunning you can make any rod live but the first sign of detonation can cuase it to bend. The higher end rods have better bolts and alloys that make them stronger.....
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
03-15-2007, 02:57 AM
#24
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Ok experts.....found these on ebay.....what do you think????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...spagenameZWD1V
03-15-2007, 01:05 PM
#26
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
You also need to decide your power "budget". For instance, on an N/A motor that I know will not be seeing spray I will use the super-light stuff and keep the rods down to 520-530 gr. For instance we use Probe I-beams in Tommy's motor. Why put a 650-700gr. rod ina motor that doesn't need it. That is why so many folks who build a "forged" motor loose so much power. Huge reciprocating mass.
You also have to be careful with rod weight. Many of the rods will be the same weight, but will have more weight concentrated down on the big end of the rod which makes the rod much heavier on comparison. Often times these are refered to as "footballs".
The lightest and strongest rod... Probably a Jager transformed Aluminum Rod. Around 400 gr. Light as AL, as tough and durable as a steel rod... Just ask Greg Anderson
You also have to be careful with rod weight. Many of the rods will be the same weight, but will have more weight concentrated down on the big end of the rod which makes the rod much heavier on comparison. Often times these are refered to as "footballs".
The lightest and strongest rod... Probably a Jager transformed Aluminum Rod. Around 400 gr. Light as AL, as tough and durable as a steel rod... Just ask Greg Anderson
03-15-2007, 01:07 PM
#27
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Originally Posted by Juiced
As most builders know it's not he actual rod that takes a crap, it's the rodbolts that begin to stretch and end up breaking, with proper tunning you can make any rod live but the first sign of detonation can cuase it to bend. The higher end rods have better bolts and alloys that make them stronger.....
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
03-16-2007, 07:37 AM
#28
TECH Apprentice
Interesting point. I'd never considered cylinder pressure but even on the exhaust stroke it must offer some resistance to the rod flying off into orbit.
Boosted.
Boosted.
03-25-2007, 11:24 AM
#29
FormerVendor
I use all these rods as well and I haven't done anything other than add more pin clearance to the Eagles but you need to do that on every other rod there too besides usually the Carrillos that generally have .001 or so right out of the box. I have had Olivers with as little as .0002 pin clearance out of the box depending on the pin. Most aftermarket rods come with about a half thousandth or .0005.
I have had a few pairs of SCAT and Eagle a long time ago that were tight in the tang area though but all of this must be checked out when using any new rod. I've probably used about 400 sets of Eagle rods in different engine in the last 6 years. They are in tons of single digit engines on this site and never had a single problem. I also really like the Callies as well with the ARP2000 bolts but it's all overkill.
There's one 4.000 inch stroke engine on LS1tech here that turns 8600 and it's using normal Eagle rods with no bolt upgrade and the rods and bearings look great. I have personally seen the Lunati Pro-Billets bend on big NOS engines as well as several members have also. I've seen that 3 times.
I think all these rods are overkill for 99 percent of the uses we are talking about. I would put the extra money into something that will make more power or better reliability like heads and valvesprings or lighter valves.
I have had a few pairs of SCAT and Eagle a long time ago that were tight in the tang area though but all of this must be checked out when using any new rod. I've probably used about 400 sets of Eagle rods in different engine in the last 6 years. They are in tons of single digit engines on this site and never had a single problem. I also really like the Callies as well with the ARP2000 bolts but it's all overkill.
There's one 4.000 inch stroke engine on LS1tech here that turns 8600 and it's using normal Eagle rods with no bolt upgrade and the rods and bearings look great. I have personally seen the Lunati Pro-Billets bend on big NOS engines as well as several members have also. I've seen that 3 times.
I think all these rods are overkill for 99 percent of the uses we are talking about. I would put the extra money into something that will make more power or better reliability like heads and valvesprings or lighter valves.
03-25-2007, 11:28 AM
#30
FormerVendor
Originally Posted by faust,dr
The question to ask is: Which rod is the strongest for its weight? Also termed "Specific Strength." You can design a rod that is stronger than anything, but it's going to weigh a ton. I believe in paying the most for optimized products. All the manufacturers optimize to some degree, but it would be interesting to see a subjecting tensile and compressive test for all the the major designs. Even more interesting would be to determine which is the most capable at high rpm vs which rod is best for max cylinder pressure. I doubt they will be the same design. Fatigue is another issue to consider (how long will it hold together under repeated abuse). The rod that is strongest in a one-time compression test won't necessarily last the longest in an endurance competition. Just my $0.02. These are the question I would be most interested in having answered.
03-25-2007, 11:31 AM
#31
FormerVendor
Originally Posted by Juiced
As most builders know it's not he actual rod that takes a crap, it's the rodbolts that begin to stretch and end up breaking, with proper tunning you can make any rod live but the first sign of detonation can cuase it to bend. The higher end rods have better bolts and alloys that make them stronger.....
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
If your budget can support it get the Carillo's with teh SPS rodbolt, after aoing some FEA on the material at school it's going to be hard to find something stronger........
This is just my opinion though
03-25-2007, 11:36 AM
#32
FormerVendor
Originally Posted by J-Rod
You also need to decide your power "budget". For instance, on an N/A motor that I know will not be seeing spray I will use the super-light stuff and keep the rods down to 520-530 gr. For instance we use Probe I-beams in Tommy's motor. Why put a 650-700gr. rod ina motor that doesn't need it. That is why so many folks who build a "forged" motor loose so much power. Huge reciprocating mass.
You also have to be careful with rod weight. Many of the rods will be the same weight, but will have more weight concentrated down on the big end of the rod which makes the rod much heavier on comparison. Often times these are refered to as "footballs".
The lightest and strongest rod... Probably a Jager transformed Aluminum Rod. Around 400 gr. Light as AL, as tough and durable as a steel rod... Just ask Greg Anderson
You also have to be careful with rod weight. Many of the rods will be the same weight, but will have more weight concentrated down on the big end of the rod which makes the rod much heavier on comparison. Often times these are refered to as "footballs".
The lightest and strongest rod... Probably a Jager transformed Aluminum Rod. Around 400 gr. Light as AL, as tough and durable as a steel rod... Just ask Greg Anderson
Wow I'm posting too much! J-Rod has another excellent point that weight is aways important and on a lower hp / lower rpm engine you can run a lot lighter rod than many do right now. Now if only those Probe lighweights would fit all the LS1 pistons out there! I am trying to get Mark and those guys do do an LS1 version or one with a narrower pin end and they would work quite well.
04-02-2007, 08:20 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Juiced
As most builders know it's not he actual rod that takes a crap, it's the rodbolts that begin to stretch and end up breaking
Lunati Pro's here
And for value, I agree that Eagle's are hard to beat also!
04-11-2007, 12:28 PM
#36
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i ran lunati pro mods with no issues, i was just shy of the 1,000rwhp mark on 2 stages.
no issues. my buddy spit out a eagle h-beam last year and bent 3 or 4 others at the same time. he was about 1,000 rwhp as well, 1 stage 400 shot.
his rods where 2 years old tho.
i will probably be using grp alum in my new setup
no issues. my buddy spit out a eagle h-beam last year and bent 3 or 4 others at the same time. he was about 1,000 rwhp as well, 1 stage 400 shot.
his rods where 2 years old tho.
i will probably be using grp alum in my new setup
